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TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STtEET 

WEBSTER  N.Y.  M5S0 

(716)872-4S03 


^>A^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  xo  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaily  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 


D 
D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
SI 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  iftdition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  dt6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


3 


24X 


28X 


32X 


»it4p«s«^  Muti,  -Miaaijtmaifc^&aWiarrtMi'iBfci'fett**'" 


lire 

details 
jes  du 

modifier 
ger  une 

filmage 


des 


ire 


>y  errata 
ed  to 

int 

me  pelure, 

apon  d 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanlcs 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ~-^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reprodult  grAce  d  la 
gAnArosit6  da: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
da  la  nettet*  de  Texempiaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  axemplaires  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  axemplaires 
origlnaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniira  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -**  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reprodult  en  un  seul  ciichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

a 

3 

4 

• 

6 

GYPSY    DAYS. 


This  yolunw  is  /p)t  issued  as  one  claiming 
general  interest.  It  is  compiled  from  Notes 
made  on  the  bacli  of  our  Maps,  and  is  mrw 
printed  that  my  daughter's  recollections  and 
associations  of  our  Gipsying  Days,  when  she 
was  from  four  to  seven  years  of  age,  may  be 
refreshed. 

This  edition  is  for  her  and  her  friends,  is 
limited  to  twenty-six  copies  (one  for  copy- 
right), and  the  type  is  distributed. 

This  is  Number 


I 


"  The  Oaks,"  Gi^enovia. 


Jott'S 

now 

and 

she 

'  be 

i,  IS 


^"^^^fs^^is^f^^^^: 


:  g-.  v$ii^>B«lKn^*yrtrv*f^'i-s*'y^m'^''' 


»« 


■,■  4' 


k 


GYPSY     DAYS 


C'  )!.(  H?  \|)<  >,     C  \I  11  Ol'  \l  •-  .     1  1  <  >|.'  II)  \ 
A  \h     I  III;     CA  N  \  I'  \    111    -^H 


\ 


^ 


\ 


, ,...  ..-.^.  ;-n  ,.,  >n.Mi  «.krti^'a.iihi. 


!'.(  )S  TON' 
J.  <i.   (I  rii.I'.S    (■(  I..    I'l  i;;  i-ni  I' 
i>.',  Ijiniktan  Stvrct 


A 


r<»VKll.llT,    1*00, 
IW    I..    WciLIHK-.    I.KIIVAKI). 


Alt  rtyhl*  rmrrrnl. 


I' KISS  or 
H>llK.Ks  .%    AllAMS,  II    KnAI'H   >'T  , 

H«-»M'»>N,    MASS. 


wivi^iWrt-nHManM*.^*  J»>*»a™.** 


GYPSY    DAYS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

After  many  months  of  "  nervous  depression," 
that  most  annoying  disarrangement  of  the  system 
that  simulates  a  hundred  ailments  without  yield- 
ing to  the  treatment  for  any,  the  order  came  from 
a  physican,  wise  beyond  question,  "  Go  back  to 
semi-civilized  life  to  heal  the  wear  and  tear  of 
modern  existence,  and  the   enervation  of  office 


care 


>f 


Banished  in  this  manner  from  office,  home 
and  social  surroundings,  to  the  recesses  of  deep 
forests,  the  shadows  of  canons  and  the  summits 
of  mountain  ranges,  —  all  connected  with  nomadic 
life  immediately  assumed  commanding   interest, 


2 


arrsY  days. 


to  the  complete  exclusion  of  the  wearying  routine 
of  business  thought  that  had  become  exhausting 
to  mental  elasticity. 

Less  than  a  century  ago,  nearly  all  the  occu- 
pants of  the  iuirrow  border  lying  between  the 
Atlantic  Coast  and  the  vast  and  unknown  forests 
that  hid  the  prairies  of  the  West  behind  a  thousand 
miles  of  pathless  shadow,  were  pioneers.  They 
sat  before  huge,  open  fives  that  consumed  the 
trees  cut  from  the  new  "clearings;"  enjoyed 
venison  and  trout  from  the  adjacent  forest  still 
rich  in  gifts  of  nature ;  and  used  furs  taken 
from  the  "varmints"  that  worried  their  flocks. 
They  were  hardy  yeomen,  vigorous,  and  full  of 
the  energy  and  purpose  that  has  worked  such 
wonders  all  through  a  land  then  hardly  dreamed 
of,  _  a  domain  not  suspected  by  the  keenest 
minds,  one  hiding  under  the  mantle  of  wood- 
lands—  by  the  margin  of  unknown  rivers,  amid 
the  mists  curling  over  mountain  ranges,  and  in  the 
mysterious  depths  of  deep  ravines  —  such  wealth 
of  mineral,  animal,  forest  and  agricultural  pro- 
duct as  has  since  rewarded  a  vast  peoi)le  with 
fortunes  like  those  of  necromancy. 

To  these  settlers  the  blaze  on  the  home  hearth- 
stone offered  radiated  heat  as  a  camp-fire  j  the 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


•ying  routine 
s  exhausting 

all  the  occu- 
between  the 
nown  forests 
id  a  thousand 
leers.  They 
onsumed  the 
s;"  enjoyed 
d  forest  still 
.   furs  taken 

their  flocks. 
,  and  full  of 
worked  such 
rdly  dreamed 

the  keenest 
tie  of  wood- 
i  rivers,  amid 
fes,  and  in  the 
-  such  wealth 
icultural  pro- 

pemile  with 

home  hearth- 
amp-fire;  the 


huge  chimney  drew  away  all  foul  air,  while  fresh 
breath  whistled  through  the  cracks  of  window 
and  door  unimpeded  by  double-sash  or  weather- 
strip. An  electric  bell  did  not  in  that  primitive 
time  summon  a  servant  to  put  on  coal,  or  turn 
(m  steam,  to  save  a  luxurious  person  from  the 
fatigue  of  lifting  a  foot  from  an  art-cushion. 
Then  a  few  strong  blows  of  the  axe,  and  wood 
was  brought  in,  accompanied  by  a  whisk  of  fresh 
air  and  a  few  sparkling  snow-flakes,  to  crackle  on 
the  andirons,  to  warm  the  folk  with  wholesome 

heat. 

Half  the  powers  of  the  air,  the  earth  and  the 
Devil  had  not  then  been  summoned  as  slaves  by 
science  to  vex   the   brain,  suffocate   the   lungs, 
unstring  the  nerves,  and  let  unused  muscles  for- 
get their  purpose  until  their  energy  should  be  lost 
forever.     Gas,  coal,  steam,  electricity,  and  their 
increasing  kith  and  kin  of  light,  heat,  force  and 
wonder-workers,  were  minding  their  own  business 
in  unsuspected  concealment,  and  ordinarily  when 
a  man  wanted  anything  done,  he  did  it  himself : 
in  the  present  period  of  mechanical  progress  and 
complication,  he  does   not   do  so  if  he  can  com- 
mand  mechanical  aid.  —  We  are   elevated,  con- 
veyed, transported,  lighted,  heated,  shampooed. 


Si>^«t-->-i*»^*-^ 


4  GYPSY  DAYS. 

half  killed  and  brought  to  life  again  by  a  myriad 
of  mechanical,  chemical,  electrical  and  diabolical 
contrivances,  each  of  which   in  its  evolution  has 
softened  many  an  inventor's  brain,  and  prevented 
the  hardening  of  the  biceps  of  many  a  man  who 
knows  not  the  appetite  that  fresh  air  and  labor 
formerly  supplied,  or  the  sound  dreamless  sleep 
that  open-air  life  secures  to  those  who  are  weary 
in  body  but  unvexed  in  mind.     But  now  the  keen- 
edged  axe,  the  steam-driven  saw,  and  the  fire  from 
the   locomotive,  all  urged  on  by  eager   nervous 
American  haste,  have  so  gnawed,  cut  and  burned 
away  the  woodlands  that   he  who  seeks  a  vast 
contiguity    of    shade    must   carry   an    umbrella 
between  his  head  and  the  sun  for  many  miles  be- 
fore the  widespread  forest  silence  is  found  that 
alone  satisfies  the  nomad  woodsman. 

We  should  save  parts  of  our  glorious  forests 
before  they  are  all  gone  to  the  sawmill,  or  ground 
into  pulp  to  bear  the  records  of  murders  and  ras- 
cality that  will  be  printed  on  fibres  torn  from  pop- 
lars and  cottonwoods  that  whispered  peace  only 
along  the  wandering  streams,  before  they  are  used, 
wasted  and  destroyed  as  a  spendthrift  scatters 
the  fortunes  of  a  productive  past.  May  we  not 
hope  that  coal,  aided  by  natural  gas,  will  so  far 


■,« 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


I  myriad 
iiabolical 
ition  has 
irevented 
man  who 
nd  labor 
ess  sleep 
ire  weary 
the  keen- 
fire  from 
nervous 
,d  burned 
cs  a  vast 
umbrella 
miles  be- 
)und  that 

us  forests 
or  ground 
s  and  ras- 
f  rom  pop- 
teace  only 
f  are  used, 
't  scatters 
ly  we  not 
vill  so  far 


replace  wood  as  a  fuel,  so  cheapen  the  production 
of  iron  and  steel  and  extend  their  uses  as  substi- 
tutes for  timber,  that  we  may  yet  rescue  some  of 
the  magnificent  American  forests  from  the  steel  of 
the  lumbermen  or  the  more  fatal  steal  of  the  land- 
grant  railways  ? 

Where  to  camp  is  already  a  vexing  question :  so 
rapid  and  far-reaching  has  been  the  continuous 
invasion  of  the  superb  woodlands  that  —  fringed 
with  palms  and  magnolias  on  the  south,  with  Cot- 
tonwood, birch,  cedar  and  willow  on  the  north  — 
were  an  inheritance  from  the  great  past,  when 
nature  clothed  the  land  with  varied  verdure  and 
no  offending  purpose  was  known  to  wreck  her 
handiwork. 

To  the  Adirondaeks  we  have  often  wandered  to 
revisit  scenes  that  come  as  welcome  and  as  fresh 
to  memory  after  many  years,  as  catkins  of  the 
pussy  willows  come  after  a  long  winter  as  har- 
bingers of  spring ;  but  the  lovely  lakes  and  deep 
forests  that  lie  under  the  shadows  of  Mt.  Marcy, 
and  the  companion  peaks,  have  lost  their  virgin 
charms.     Forest  fires  have  worked  wild  havoc,  the 
trout  have  been  carried  out  salted  in  barrels  by 
men  to  -vhom  a  salt  trout  was  a  reminder  of  cod- 
fish and  as  such  more  valued  than  the  conscious- 


,,5^Pfas*WS*i«*f*w*'*«*""'-''' 


6 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


ness  of  having  left  the  surphis  of  good  hick  to 
flash  their  jewelled  sides  in  the  amber-colored 
waters  of  the  woodland,  to  live,  increase,  and 
reward  to  a  proper  extent,  future  ramblers. 

The  deer,  too,  are  few  and  wary.  Hunted  in  and 
out  of  season,  with  an  endless  persecution  of  long- 
range  rifles,  powerful  lights  and  hounds,  they  find 
little  chance  to  breed ;  while  in  the  winter  on  crust- 
bound  snow  they  fall  before  the  cupidity  of  pot 
hunters  for  the  sake  of  their  skins  alone. 

Ere  long  little  will  remain  of  the  noble  game 
animals  of  our  varied  land,  outside  of  museums ; 
and  he  who  seeks  rest  and  recreation,  coupled  with 
those  stimulating  excitements  of  the  chase  that 
render  hunters  forgetful  of  fatigue,  heedless  of 
danger,  regardless  of  exposure  and  as  hardy  as 
Indians,  will  have  to  travel  far  and  wide  to  find 
an  undevastated  domain. 

It  was,  perchance,  the  "  missing  link  "  that  said 
so  truly  that  a  "  monkey  knows  not  the  value  of  his 
tail  untiljie  loses  it ; "  and  we  will  know  too  well 
the  value  of  the  woodlands  when  they  are  cut  away, 
leaving  wind-swept,  sun-burned  barrens,  where  ver- 
dure, shade  and  prattling  streams  once  gave  the 
charms  that  soothe  weariness  with  softened  lights 
and  half-audible  silence. 


j-iii^;T,i  i^i*  »^>»*te.v 


d  luck  to 
ler-colored 
ease,  and 
era. 

lied  ill  and 
u  of  long- 
,  they  find 
r  on  crust- 
ity  of  pot 
e. 

able  game 
museums ; 
iipled  with 
;hase  that 
eedless  of 
i  hardy  as 
ide  to  find 

'  that  said 
alue  of  his 
w  too  well 
!  cut  away, 
where  ver- 
j  gave  the 
iued  lights 


CHAPTER   II. 


COLORADO. 


We  had  been  idling  away  days  at  Manitou, 
gazing  at  the  lofty  crags  of  Pike's  Peak,  wan- 
dering through  canons,  and  wondering  again 
and  again  at  the  fanciful  forms  in  stone  in  the 
Garden  of  the  Gods,  when  a  famous  hunter,  Mr. 
Link,  came  in  from  South  Park  with  &  very  ex- 
citing wagon-load  of  game  :  deer,  mountain  sheep 
and  other  noble  forest  animals. 

The  sight  of  this  load  of  game  so  aroused  our 
hunting  spirit  that  we  left  Manitou  in  a  strong 
wagon  with  a  constant  sky-line  of  ears  appertain- 
ing to  two  diminutive  mules,  and  started  for  a 
ranche  on  the  Platte  River,  distance  thirty-four 
miles.  The  day  was  clear  and  crisp,  the  warm 
sun  had  removed  all  the  traces  of  a  recent  snow- 


.^^^^^«»»***"***"*"^"' ' 


8  nrrsY  days. 

storm  except  from  shady  nooks,  and  so  warm  were 
its  rays  that  our  wraps  were  soon  thrown  back. 
Our  route  was  through   the   famous  Ute   Pass, 
then  the  best  of  all  the  entrances  to  South  Park, 
and  an  important  thoroughfare  for  mining,  In- 
dian, and  Government  supply  trains.      The  old 
time-worn  trail   has  been  improved  by  modern 
engineering,  and  a  road  cut  along  the  rocky  sides 
of  the  chasm  for  some  miles,  opening  most  beau- 
tiful scenery.     For  some  twenty  miles  the  ascent 
was  almost  constant  until  at  Hayden's  Park  the 
road  attained  an  altitude  of  nine  thousand  feet 
and  over.     Pike's  Peak  was  a  constant  object  of 
interest  on  our  left,  from  here  not  a  peak,  but  a 
long  massive  ridge  of  stone  rising  in  abrupt  cliffs. 
On  the  sky-line,  wreaths  of  drifting  snow  showed 
against  the  blue  like  frayed  lace-work.     The  tim- 
ber line  is  very  strongly  marked,  all  vegetation 
ceasing  at  one  elevation,  no  margin  of  low  shrubs 
gainbg  a  hold  beyond  the  dark  masses  of  spruce 
and  balsam  growth.     The  forest  limit  is  about 
twelve  thousand  feet ;  seven  thousand  feet  higher 
than  on  the  White  Mountain  range.      Ranches 
ai-e  built  at  nine  and  ten  thousand  feet,  and  snow 
rarely  remains  long  upon  the  summit  of  the  pass 
wiiere  exposed  to  the  sun.     At  lunch-time  we 


;v.  .^swws-^fcs^*! =;«*!**»  ^^•■?^#s. 


.*SMypSiffi?i«*»i**K*=KS&5*»«^«*aa^  " 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


9 


rt'arra  were 
own  back. 
Ute   Pass, 
9utli  Park, 
lining,  In- 
The  old 
by  modern 
rocky  sides 
most  beau- 
I  the  ascent 
s  Park  the 
tusand  feet 
it  object  of 
peak,  but  a 
brupt  cliffs, 
low  showed 
,     The  tim- 

vegetation 
;  low  shrubs 
!S  of  spruce 
lit  is  about 

feet  higher 

Ranches 

;t,  and  snow 

of  the  pass 

nch-time  we 


opened  our  baskets  by  a  clear  spring,  made  a  fire 
for  heating  our  coffee,  and  sat  down  to  enjoy  it 
on  dry  ground  with  no  feeling  of  chill,  within  six 
feet  of  a  snow  bank  that  remained  from  a  recent 
storm. 

Just  as  the  sun  set  and  the  full  moon  rose,  we 
commenced  the  descent  into  the  Platte  Valley; 
most  enchanting  views  opening  before  us  of  half- 
wooded  plains,  surrounded  by  range  upon  range 
of  serried  mountain  lines,  all  catching  the  last 
rays  upon  their  glittering  peaks.  Guarding  each 
side  of  the  road  are  huge  masses  of  rock,  one 
upon  another,  two  hundred  feet  high,  rising  far 
above  the  pines,  known  as  the  Twins ;  and  looking 
between  them  the  view  was  one  suggesting  land- 
scape gardening,  so  picturesque  were  the  groups 
of  dark  pines,  and  so  clear  and  broad  the  sweep 
of  natural  lawns.  The  road  was  perfect,  dry,  and 
as  smooth  ae  those  of  a  park.  So  we  spun  along, 
our  mules  on  the  galop,  the  crisp  evening  air 
fresh  upon  us,  until  with  one  lovely  view  succeed- 
ing another  the  day  passed  away,  when  under  the 
full  moon  every  romantic  feature  of  the  land- 
scape was  enhanced  in  weird  beauty  and  unreal 
character.  A  few  small  cottages  were  scattered 
on  the  bottom  land,  where  from  open  doors  and 


,aHij(cHF.s  ^J'm^i^-' 


.^^jia^«Kfo>v)«yf«*-'*  ■»■  ■"- 


10 


arrsY  days. 


windows  flashed  the  warm  rich  light  of  burning 
pitch  pine,  reminding  us,  with  its  ruddy  glow  and 
fragrant  smell,  of  evening  views  in  the  South. 

No  impression  of  recent  occupation  is  received 
from  this  peculiar  land.  The  fields  are  as  fair 
and  free  from  stump  or  mound  as  English 
meadows;  the  trees  stand  singly,  growing  wide 
and  free  as  trees  only  grow  where  there  are  no 
rivals  for  their  share  of  sun  and  air:  while  all 
that  art  would  do  in  obedience  to  the  dicates  of 
taste,  nature  has  worked  out  in  long  centuries, 
with  no  eye  to  admire  the  graceful  results,  unless 
some  Indian  felt  an  appeal  to  his  better  nature 
in  the  widespread  beauty. 

Soon  we  came  upon  the  Platte  River,  and  were 
at  the  door  of  Mr.  Link's  ranche,  where  we  un- 
folded our  wraps,  and  soon  were  toasting  before 
a  huge  blaze  of  pine  that  filled  a  wide-throated 

chimney. 

The  next  morning,  a  fair,  bright  day,  I  started 
on  horseback,  with  Mr.  Link,  to  hunt  for  deer, 
leaving  the  "we"  of  our  party  at  his  ranche. 
We  rode  up  a  wide  valley,  and  after  a  few  miles 
came  upon  steep  foot  hills,  mountains  in  our 
ideas;  and  now  riding  up,  now  leading  our 
horses   over  stony  banks  and   ledges  where   it 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


11 


ing 
ind 

ved 

Fair 

lish 

ide 
no 
all 
of 

•ies, 

less 

turo 

vere 

un- 

fore 

ated 

rted 
leer, 
iche. 
niles 
our 
our 
e   it 


seemed  beyond  the  power  of  a  horse  to  go,  we 
wound  our  way  among  scattered  pines,  carefully 
scanning  the  slopes  for  game.     After  a  time  Mr. 
Link  proclaimed  deer  in  view,  and  levelled  his 
rifle  for  me  to  sight  them  over ;  but  it  was  some 
time  before  I  could  see  the  herd.     The  air  was 
so  clear  that  the  hillside  they  were  on  seemed 
very  near,  so  near  that  I  looked  vainly  for  large 
forms,  and  only  after  close  examination  saw  what 
looked  like  rabbits  among  bushes,  really  large 
black-tailed  deer  among  pines,  when  I  realized  the 
distance  that  was  so  deceiving.     We  urged  our 
horses  down  the  hill  and  along  the  valley,  smash- 
ing through  thickets  of  willow  and  quaking  asp, 
eager  to  get  the  wind  in  our  favor,  well  aware 
that  deer  are  far  more   dependent   upon   smell 
than  sight  or    hearing  for  warning  of  danger. 
When  we  felt  safe  in  regard   to   the   warning 
breath  of  the  light  wind,  we  turned  up  a  spur  of 
the  hill  where   the   deer   were   seen,  and   after 
a  steep  pull  dismounted,  picketed  the   panting 
horses,  and  started  to  stalk  the  game  we  had  dis- 
covered.    No  more  beautiful  ground   can  exist 
for  this  sport  than  these  mountains,  rising  into  a 
crbp  high  air  that   stimulates   every  sense  and 
braces  every  muscle;  where  fatigue  passes  away 


i^iipj— '«J^ 


12 


ilVrsY  DAYS. 


after  a  brief  rest  and  new  impulse  comes  with 
each  hour's  effort ;  where  the  rocks  and  scattered 
trees  afford  concealment  without  shutting  in  the 
view,  and  firm  rough  ground  gives  good  footing 
for  the  scramble  ;  but  it  is  a  fair  fight  with  no 
favor,  and  he  who  gets  game  must  work  for  it. 
No  hounds  can  here  drive  the  deer  to  easy  shots 
from  some  concealed  resting-place,  nor  can  a 
guide  paddle  up  and  hold  the  deer  by  the  tail 
until,  after  many  misses,  a  ball  terminates  thoir 
agony  of  fright.  They  are  as  free  as  air,  keen 
and  alert,  and  their  capture  calls  for  guarded  but 
prompt  action,  united  with  the  hunter's  most  pro- 
found strategy.  ] 

Mr.  Link  was  most  proficient  in  the  chase  of 
all  mountain  game,  uniting  with  remarkable 
physical  energy  and  endurance  a  great  fund  of 
information,  enabling  him  to  tell  with  seeming 
instinct  where  game  would  feed,  rest,  or  run,  and 
he  was  rarely  in  error.  "These  deer,"  he  said, 
"  would  work  up  the  mountain,  if  not  around  it, 
before  we  reach  their  pass,  then  to  a  second 
spur."  To  head  them  we  made  our  ascent  as 
rapidly  as  we  could,  halting  at  times  for  breath. 
We  were  in  time ;  for  in  the  snow  that  remained 
in   the  shade   there   were    no    tracks,  and  sure 


OYPSr  DAYS. 


13 


imes  with 
scattered 
ig  in  the 
d  footing 
;  with  no 
ik  for  it. 
msy  shots 
DT  can  a 
y  the  tail 
ates  their 
air,  keen 
irded  but 
most  pro- 
chase  of 
imarkable 
;  fund  of 
seeming 
run,  and 
'  he  said, 
round  it, 
a  second 
ascent  as 
r  breath, 
remained 
and  sure 


that  they  were  below  us  we  full-cocked  oiir  rifles 
and  cr'jtt  alon<j^  a  conuiiandiiij;  rid^c,  watching 
eagtrly  every  biiHli  and  ojk  ning.  AfttT  a  little  \vr 
found  their  fresh  tniii,  and  followed  it  as  it 
wound  ab(»ut  the  mountain,  rxiu'cting  every 
moment  to  come  upon  them  ;  for  they  were  evi- 
dently not  hurried  or  alarmed,  as  at  times  th(^y 
wandered  slowly  around,  apparently  wishing  to  lie 
down  for  their  mid-day  rest ;  but  we  crept  after 
the  trail  a  long  time,  up  dry  sunny  dill's,  and 
sliding  down  banks  on  northern  slopes,  where 
no  sunlight  fell  to  carry  away  the  snow.  We 
were  disappointed  to  find  after  an  hour  of  diffi- 
cult stalking  that  they  had  crossed  an  open  gulch, 
and  ascended  a  second  mountain. 

Mr.  Link  said  he  would  climb  it  if  I  would 
watch  a  pass,  which  I  did  ;  but  the  herd  evaded  us 
by  going  just  under  a  ledge  out  of  sight,  yet  very 
near.  Rejoined  by  Mr.  Link,  we  slowly  dragged 
our  now  tired  limbs  over  the  rocks  to  points 
where  he  had  frequently  found  deer,  and  at  last 
concluded  to  separate  :  he  to  follow  a  ravine,  I  to 
cross  a  crest.  We  had  hardly  parted  when  from 
some  low  shrubs  several  black-tail  deer  sprang 
up :  one  a  large  doe,  facing  me  at  about  one  hun" 
dred  yards.     I  drew  a  careful  bead  and   fired, 


14 


UiTSY  DAYS. 


and  seeing  her  rear  full  over  backward  and  go 
Nliilin^  down  tliu  hill  'lU  her  back,  with  her  heoU 
wildly  llouriHhing  in  the  air,  imajrined  her  done 
for,  and  st'nt  a  Hecund  nhot  hurriedly  at  long 
ranpt'  after  a  buck  that  was  watching  with  won* 
dering  eyes  the  strange  antics  of  his  companion. 
This  shot  went  wildly,  as  did  one  from  Mr. 
Liidc's  riHe,  which  cut  a  branch  over  my  head  on 
its  way,  and  the  remainder  of  the  herd  disap* 
I'i.  ired  with  long  graceful  bounds.  Turning  to 
ba  ;  the  doc,  great  was  our  astonishment  to  find 
he-  non  inrendiaf  while  Mr.  Link  and  his  dog 
battened  along  her  trail,  plain  enough  from 
sh(  wers  of  blood.  She  had  fallen  down  the  cliffs, 
ga  hered  her  feet  under  her  at  the  bottom,  and 
wch  last  energy  gone  flying  down  the  mountain 
f  .de,  going  so  far  that  we  reluctantly  abandoned 
pursuit,  Mr.  Link  feeling  that  instinct  would 
guide  her  to  the  river  where  we  would  find  her. 
Again,  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  we  divided 
to  stalk  different  sides  of  a  long  ridge.  Mr. 
Link  was  hardly  out  of  sight  before  his  rifle  rang 
out  once  and  again.  I  watched  eagerly  for  fly- 
ing  game,  but  none  came  to  my  side  of  the  range, 
and  I  arrived  at  our  rendezvous  without  incident, 
where   I   built   a    fire    and   kept   warm  as  the 


arrsY  vAttr 


15 


and  go 
er  hc'oU 
lur  done 
nt  long 
tl»  won* 
iipaniun. 
um  Mr. 
bead  on 
\  disap- 
ning  to 

to  find 
his  dog 
li  from 
le  clifFs, 
um,  and 
lountain 
indoned 
;  would 
nd  her. 

divided 
I.  Mr. 
fle  rang 
for  fly. 
Q  range, 
Qcident, 

as  the 


shadows  grew  long.  Aft^r  a  time  Mf  Link 
came  up  bearing  a  fino  venison,  and  said  he  had 
hung  up  another,  leaving  a  mitten  with  it  to 
frighten  away  coyotes  and  wild-cats.  With 
weary  steps  wo  sought  our  horses,  mounted  with 
the  game  before  us  and  rode  home,  enjoying  the 
moonlight  in  the  valley  of  the  Platte. 

Our  second  day's  hunting  was  about  the  same 
group  of  mountains,  where  we  made  a  long 
detour  among  the  bushy  ravines,  seeking  to  find 
the  lair  of  some  bears  that  were  reported  as  being 
in  the  vicinity.  We  saw  no  deer,  but  came  upon 
elk  tracks  quite  fresh,  and  after  a  long  rough 
ride  came  in  bringing  the  second  deer,  shot  by 
Mr.  Link,  and  the  doe  I  shot  the  day  before, 
which  we  found  by  the  river,  just  where  Mr. 
Link  said  it  would  run.  She  was  hit  hard  in  the 
head,  and  it  seemed  incredible  that  she  should 
have  run  so  far. 

A  snow-storm  of  some  inches  prevented  any 
pleasant  hunting  for  a  few  days,  and  made  the 
deer  move  on,  so  that  we  found  very  few  signs  in 
our  daily  tramps. 

When  the  first  fair  day  came,  we  set  out  for  a 
range  not  before  hunted,  and,  separating,  hunted 
each  side  of  seTeral  peaks.     Leading  my  old  nag 


*m^f'A- 


16 


OYI'SY  DAYS. 


"  John  "  around  one  sunny  moiintain  side,  I  came 
upon  deer  tracks  in  abundance ;  leaving  him 
under  a  pine,  I  set  out  guardedly  upon  the  fresh 
trail,  and  gradually  gained  a  summit  command- 
in"-  a  wide  view.  No  game  was  in  sight ;  but  I 
heard  the  report  of  Mr.  Link's  rifle  echo  amid  the 
crags,  and  after  a  little  he  came  up  on  a  return 
trail  and  reported  that  he  had  seen  the  herd  on  a 
ridge  below,  probably  alarmed  by  our  coming,  and 
had  shot  two  at  some  three  hundred  yards  before 
they  could  determine  the  source  of  danger. 

We  secured  these,  hung  them  up,  and  set  out 
on  the  trail  of  two  iujjl«:ive8  :  a  large  buck  and  a 
doe,  whose  flying  bounds  over  rock  and  log, 
often  down  many  feet  upon  sharp  stones,  made 
us  wonder  at  the  strength  of  their  slender  legs. 
We  followed  over  a  ridge  or  two,  when  Mr.  Link 
said,  "They  will  probably  go  up  to  the  next 
summit  and  lie  down  where  they  can  look  back 
upon  their  trail;"  and,  carefully  peering  across 
the  next  ravine,  we  discovered  them  watching 
their  track  :  so  we  drew  back  guardedly,  left  our 
horses,  and  made  a  long  detour,  hoping  to  sur- 
prise them  in  spite  of  their  cunning  precautions. 
Step  by  step  we  stalked  their  retreat;  but  the 
wind  played  us  false,  veering  around  for  a  storm, 


J 


OYPSY  DAYS. 


17 


1  side,  I  came 
leaving  him 
jon  the  fresh 
lit  command- 
sight;  but  I 
icho  amid  the 
•  on  a  return 
the  herd  on  a 
r  coming,  and 
[  yards  before 
langer. 

,  and  set  out 
;e  buck  and  a 
)ck  and  log, 
stones,  made 
slender  legs, 
ben  Mr.  Link 
to  the  next 
^n  look  back 
leering  across 
lem  watching 
ledly,  left  our 
oping  to  sur- 
T  precautions, 
reat;  but  the 
i  for  a  storm, 


and  a  shot  at  fleeting  forms  was  all  we  had  at 
them  ;  but  in  a  moment  we  saw  two  other  deer 
bound  up  an  opposite  slope,  and  when  far  up 
stop  still  and  look  back.  They  were  a  long  way 
off,  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards ;  but  I 
drew  an  aim  and  fired.  They  did  not  move,  and 
I  took  a  second  shot,  while  Mr.  Link  wrestled 
manfully  with  a  jammed  cartridge  and  spoke  his 
mind  freely  during  the  contest.  With  but  one 
remaining  load,  having  dropped  my  coat  and 
cartridges  to  get  rid  of  weight,  I  would  not  risk 
it  again ;  but  Mr.  Link,  having  with  his  hatchet 
freed  his  gun,  raised  his  sight  and  fired  again,  — 
a  splendid  shot,  the  larger  deer  falUng  dead 
from  cliff  to  cliff.  This  made  him  three  deer 
within  an  hour,  all  killed  at  over  three  hundred 
yards. 

Disappointed  with  my  two  shots,  I  tested  my 
rifle,  a  fine  one  by  W.  &  C.  Scott  &  Sons,  and 
found  that  I  had  done  it  injustice,  by  distrusting 
its  power  at  such  long  range,  and  over-elevated 
it.  Had  I  fully  appreciated  its  great  range  and 
power,  I  should  not  have  overshot  the  deer  as  I 
did  by  ten  feet. 

This  hunt  terminated  our  expeditions  for  deer, 
and  we  commenced  arrangements  for  an  elk  and 


.*j3^^.'i«il*>;K  .-^*P»s4j4^-"'- 


18 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


bison  hunt,  as  I  was  anxious  to  see  these  fine 
animals,  even  if  unsuccessful  in  killing  them. 

A  novice  in  Rocky  Mountain  hunting  must 
expect  very  unsatisfactory  shooting  from  his 
arms,  however  perfect  they  may  be,  until  he 
becomes  accustomed  to  the  transparent  air.  Ob- 
jects are  more  distant  than  they  seem,  and  one 
is  always  deceived  in  elevating  for  long-range 
distances  until  practice  renders  the  new  atmos- 
pheric conditions  familiar. 


these  fine 

them, 
iting    must 

from  his 
!,  until  he 
t  air.  Ob- 
y\,  and  one 
h)ng-range 
lew  atmos- 


CHAPTER  III. 


COLORADO. 


Leaving  Madame  and  our  daughter,  a  little 
gypsy,  learning  rough  life  at  seven  years  of  age,  at 
Mr.  Link's  ranche,  we  set  out  for  an  excursion  to 
the  move  remote  and  unfrequented  mountains  of 
the  Tarryall  range,  whose  red  peaks  were  seen 
distant  against  the  northern  sky.  Our  outfit  of 
tent,  saddles,  provisions,  tools  and  guns  was 
stowed  in  a  strong  wagon,  where  we  found  a  com- 
fortable seat  on  a  pile  of  fur  robes  and  camp 
blankets.  Our  horses  were  not  rapid,  but  were 
selected  for  their  hunting  qualities,  steadiness, 
surefootedness,  and  willingness  to  be  shot  from. 
A  vehement  use  of  condensed  vernacular,  the  vigor- 
ous use  of  two  whips,  and  some  remarks  that 
might  in  the  distance  have  sounded  quite  like  a 


-^itefe^M;^"' 


v^'>'^'iU'-*^'^'"'j'^»*''^Vi*-' "^'-.r-t^^^^.v^^i^')^  r-  .--a^i^v 


20 


OYPSY  DAYS. 


negro  camp-meeting  exhortation,  at  times  roused 
them  to  a  display  of  "  action,"  and  for  a  few  rods 
produced  a  speed  of  a  mile  in  fifteen  minutes ; 
but  as  we  journeyed  northward  and  gained  eleva- 
tion, several  inches  of  snow  covered  the  road, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  be  patient  and  spend  a 
good  deal  of  time  upon  each  mile,  amusing  our- 
selves as  best  we  could  with  stories  of  hunting 
adventures. 

Mr.  Link's  experience  was  very  varied  and 
covered  hunting  of  all  kinds,  from  "  birds "  in 
Missouri  to  grizzly  bears  in  the  coast  range  of 
California  ;  and  his  knowledge  of  the  haunts  and 
habits  of  animals  rendered  his  detailed  stories  in- 
teresting to  an  unusual  degree. 

Our  road  was  over  a  series  of  summits,  each 
higher  than  the  last,  with  deeper  snow  and  more 
violent  storm,  until  at  last  we  were  obliged  to 
walk  and  break  a  path,  through  which  our  weary 
horses  dragged  the  wagon  a  rod  at  a  time.  So 
thick  were  the  fleecy  flakes  that  it  was  not  safe 
to  get  any  distance  apart,  and  for  a  long  time 
it  seemed  as  if  we  must  get  under  some  rocky 
ledge  and  remain  until  the  storm  should  abate. 
After  a  long  pull  we  reached  a  ranche,  —  a  most 
snug  one,  —  when  we  gladly  abandoned  any  effort 


GTPSY  DAYS. 


21 


es  roused 
few  rods 
minutes ; 
ned  eleva- 
the  road, 
d  spend  a 
ising  our- 
F  hunting 

iried  and 
birds"  in 
range  of 
aunts  and 
stories  in- 

nits,  each 
and  more 
obliged  to 
our  weary 
time.  So 
}  not  safe 
long  time 
)me  rocky 
uld  abate. 
—  a  most 
any  effort 


to  go  beyond  while  the  storm  raged.     The  night 
came  on  with  cold  wind  ;  but  the  following  morn- 
ing was  bright  and  fine,  and  we  were  early  on 
our  way.     The  snow  was  lying  light  and  pure, 
and  as  we  went  along  we  read  on  its  surface  a 
record  of  movements  of  many  animals.    A  stream, 
Tarryall   Creek,   half    frost-bound,   was   on   our 
right:   to  drink  from  it,  the  wild  animals   had 
come  down  from  the  mountains  early  in  the  morn- 
ing after  the  storm.     Here  were  the  footprints  of 
rabbits   and  hares;    again,  creeping  under  the 
cliffs,   two   or  three   wolves  had   been.      From 
almost   inaccessible  ledges,  wild-cats  and  lynxes 
had   sprung  down,  starting   balls  of  snow  that 
rolled  along,  leaving  pretty  prints  on  the  white 
surface.     Amid  a  clump  of  bushes  was  recorded 
the  life-struggle  of  a  "  cotton-tail "  with  a  wea- 
sel ;   in  the  trampled  snow  were  the  frantic  foot- 
prints of  poor  puss  in  her  efforts  to  shake  off  her 
deadly  foe,  and  a  groove  where  she  had  drawn  the 
slender  form  of  the  "  varmint  "  whose  fangs  were 
in  her  throat.     At  another  point  a  "  cotton-tail " 
had  been  surprised  away  from  his  sheltering  rocks 
by  an  eagle,  whose  swoops  he  had  evaded  by 
bounds  from  side  to  side,  until  all  the  snow  was 
quite  beaten  down.     The  low  dashes  of  the  bird 


[siHf>^"'k'^''''^-'s^'i^-&'''^'^^'^'-'-^^^'^'^''''^  ■■^rV"; 


t£:\rit.-ii0f/i*.'7^ ..  ■■■'■^hii'H^- 


22  GYPSY  DAYS. 

were  marked  by  the  strokes  of  wing  tips  on  the 
snow,  as  he  headed  off  every  rush  of  frlglitened 
bunny  ;  but  we  were  glad  to  see  no  fur  or  blood 
on  the  snow,  and  presumed  the  bird  was  baffled 
at  last. 

Three  varieties  of   rabbits,  or  more   properly 
hares,  were  seen,  and  a  number  shot  from  our 
wagon.     The  long-eared  "  jack,"  a  wary  fellow, 
wonderful  in  the  awkwardness  and  rapidity  of  his 
flight,  has  some  protection  in  being  white  in  win- 
ter, as  has  the  "  snow-shoe  "  hare  ;  but  the  plump 
little  cotton-tail  remains  brown,  and  is  a  victim  to 
almost  all  predatory  animals,  from  man  to  weasels, 
while  owls  and  hawks  haunt  his  timid  life.     He 
sits  in    implicit  stupidity  in  front  of   his   rocky 
home,  and  is  so  easy  to  shoot  that  only  his  excel- 
lence in  a  stew  warrants  killing  him.     The  snow 
told  tales  of  other  animals,  who,  independent  of 
night  keys,  do  ramble  late.     Big  bucks  had  come 
with    high  and  dainty  step  to  drink  ;   panthers 
("  mountjiin  lions  " )  had  stolen  along  with  noise- 
less but  not  unrecorded  footfall,  and  coyotes  — 
fearful  of  all,  but  more  afraid  of  starvation  — 
had  sueaked  about,  looking  for  some  sick  animal 
or  timid  hare  for  sustenance.     A  few  birds  braved 
the  cold  mountain  air,  —  grouse,  magpies,  and 


OYPSY  DATS. 


38 


ips  on  the 
frlglitened 
p  or  blood 
«vas  baffled 

B  properly 
from  our 
ary  fellow, 
idity  of  his 
lite  in  win- 
;  the  plump 
a  victim  to 
to  weasels, 
\  life.     He 
his   rocky 
f  his  excel- 
The  snow 
pendent  of 
s  had  come 
;   panthers 
with  noise- 
coyotes  — 
arvation  — 
sick  animal 
(irds  braved 
igpies,  and 


jays,  —  and  their  footsteps  made  patterns  on  the 
snow  as  regular  and  dainty  as  if  embroidered. 

All  these  abundant  evidences  of  wild  life,  with 
Mr.    Link's  comments  and  explanation  of  their 
habits,  made  our  third  day's  drive  more  agreeable, 
and  not  at  all  weary  we  reached  his  son's  ranche 
before  dinner,  a  daintily-served  meal,  where  we 
were  much  pleased  with  the  gentle  and  affection- 
ate ways  of  a  tame  antelope,  a  pretty  thing  with 
superb  eyes,  that  courted  notice  and  enjoyed  it 
as  much  as  a  spaniel.     Mr.  Link's  son  Louis  here 
joined  us,  and  we  went  on  and  passed  the  night 
with   a  pioneer   who  had  a  very  snug  ranche, 
newly  established.     He  was   a  keen  sportsman, 
and  usually  supplied  his  table  by  carrying  his 
gun  when  going  for  his  cattle.     His  success  was 
unusual,"  as  will  be  apparent  when  we  state  that 
in  nine  shots  he  had  killed  eight  fine  mountain 
sheep. 

An  early  start  from  the  ranche  took  us  to  our 
camp-ground  by  nine  the  next  morning,  and  soon, 
with  Mr.  Link  and  his  son,  we  were  mounted  and 
en  route  for  the  mountains.  Mr.  Louis  Link  left 
us  for  a  long  detour  through  the  haunts  of  sheep 
and  bison.  We  went  among  some  rough  peaks 
for  sheep.     Herds  of  cattle  were  feeding  on  the 


;  35k"^sfef:rii-.-^.C^V*-'-**6^<^'". 


i  ■^VSE'#*lpS^.^-*^.&t**«sfi-  ^•■'■^H 


«24 


«17'.S'y  1>A)S. 


dead  grass  that  came  above  the  snow;  but  we 
were  soon  above  their  pastures  and  on  the  alert 
for  sheep,  the  most  wary  and  cunning   of   any 
mountain  game.     They  live  among  the  most  pre- 
cipitous  ranges,    and   are   fleet   and    surefooted 
where  seemingly  no  foot  can  tread.     Their  gaze 
is   usually  downward,  and  rarely  are   they  sur- 
prised,   unless    from    some    overhanging    crag. 
Scanning  every  cliff  and  stone,  we  made  our  diffi- 
cult way  upward,  our  eyes  protected  by  smoked 
glass  from  the  danger  of  snow  blindness,  here 
very   serious.      Our    horses    labored   hard  and 
barely  kept  their  feet  on  the  rugged  slope.     All 
at  once  Mr.  Link  slid  from  his  horse  and  mo- 
tioned me  to  do  the  same.     Crouching  low  and 
looking  under  the  limbs  of  a  low-branching  pine, 
we  saw  two  sheep  on  a  rock  some  three  hundred 
yards  distant.     Our  horses  were  hastily  tied  to- 
gether, and  we  crept  up  to  the  pine-tree,  expect- 
ing a  shot ;  but  the  wind  played  us  false,  coming 
up  suddenly,  bearing   our  scent  to   the  game, 
alarming  them  so  that  they  fled  before  we  were 
within  rifle  range.     We  went  on  after  them,  hop- 
ing to  get  near  them  and  then  let  our  dog  (a 
Scotch  coUey)  go,  with  the  aim  of  driving  them 
to  some  rocky  retreat  where  the  dog  would  keep 


■  1-:. 

■  i  M;i 


"■L 


(iVPSY  DAYS. 


2/> 


;  but  we 
the  alert 
5   of   any 
most  pre- 
iurefooted 
riieir  gaze 
they  sur- 
ing    crag. 
B  our  diffi- 
3y  smoked 
ness,  here 
hard  and 
lope.     All 
B  and  mo- 
g  low  and 
jhing  pine, 
;e  hundred 
\y  tied  to- 
ree,  expect- 
Ise,  coming 
the  game, 
ire  we  were 
them,  hop- 
our  dog  (a 
iving  them 
HTOuld  keep 


them ;    but  when  let  slip   he   soon    came   back, 
showing    they  had   gone   a  long  way  on.     We 
took  the  trail  and  followed  it  to  a  high  peak, 
where,  but  for  the  unfavorable  wind,  we  would 
have  stalked  them  with  success.     As  it  was,  we 
came  almost  upon  them  on  an  overhanging  point, 
where  they  had  stopped  to  overlook  the  valley  in 
wliich  they  had  been  alarmed.     Again   we   fol- 
lowed them ;  but  the  snow  was  waist-deep,  and, 
with  the  needle  of  an  aneroid  bavometer  down  to 
about  twenty  inches,  it  was  too  rarefied  air  for 
much  hard  work,  and  our  rests  were   very  fre- 
quent.    Our  trail  led  us   among   their   retreats, 
where  they  had  lain  under  overhanging  rocks  in 
the   warm   sun,  and   out  on  rocky  shelves  that 
were  very  narrow,  and  from  which  the  downlook 
was  hundreds  of  feet  of  dizzy  precipices.     These 
look-out  points  were  hard  to  reach,  but  richly 
repaid  the  effort ;  for,  spread  far  and  wide,  were 
the  valleys  and  mountain  peaks  of  endless  chains. 
Near  us  huge  domes  of  rock  stood  out  from  the 
mountain  sides,  a  thousand  or  two  feet  high  ;  far 
away  over  the  foot-hills  the  South  Park  laid  like 
a  frozen  lake,  treeless  and  white,  with  a  surround- 
ing of  sharp  peaks,  some  brilliant  in   sunshine, 
others  hidden  by  clouds  and  driving  snow-storms. 


WM1  r — 'V  -  r  r '""  **'■" 


:.J'&^SaP***'"---'^*^>^''*-^'^"-'^'^*^'''*^"^''^^^ 


86 


(iYPSY  DAYS. 


The  south  unshaded  slopes  of  these  mountains 
were  rock-ribbed,  with  bold  elilfs  and  buttresses, 
all  stern  and  grim,  with  hardly  a  shrub  or  tree. 
The  north  sides  were  black  with  a  dense  growth 
of  spruce  and  balsam,  up  to  eleven  or  twelve 
thousand  feet,  where  all  vegetation  ceases,  and 
the  mountain  tops  bald  and  white  with  snow  that 
is  almost  perpetual. 

To  such  scenes  do  the  mountaineers'  steps  lead 
in  this  beautiful  country,  filling  days  with  pleas- 
ure, giving  constant  surprises  and  fresh  delights, 
as  the  kaleidoscopic  changes  of  season,  of  light 
and  shade,  pass  over  these  eternal  hills,  confer- 
ring fresh  beauties  on  familiar  scenes,  urging  the 
rambler  to  new  paths  and  fresh  discoveries.    Wan- 
dering here,  vigor  comes  to  every  limb,  weariness 
is  forgotten  :  while  the  mind,  filled  with  new  and 
vivid  sensations,  springs  up  from  pafc.^  depressions 
and  renews  the  power  of  keen  enjoyiiient.     Here, 
on   our    own    continent,   are    rambling-grounds 
worthy  of  an  Alpine  club,  and  scenes  that  can 
never  be  exhausted :  all  so  open  that  a  carriage 
can  pass  far  and  wide  upon  the  plains  and  foot- 
hills, and  in  the  saddle  almost  any  point  may  be 
safely  attained.     The  game  is  certainly  wary  and 
not  easily  reached ;  but  it  is  noble  game,  worthy 


urrsr  days. 


ft 


mountains 
buttresses, 
b  or  tree, 
se  growth 
or  twelve 
eases,  and 
snow  that 

steps  lead 
vith  pleas- 
h  delights, 
n,  of  light 
ills,  confer- 
urging  the 
•ies.    Wan- 
I,  weariness 
\h  new  and 
depressions 
snt.     Here, 
ng-grounds 
s  that  can 
;  a  carnage 
s  and  foot- 
)int  may  be 
y  wary  and 
me,  worthy 


of  every  exertion,  and  if  the  game  bag  often 
conies  back  to  camp  empty,  the  days  are  not 
wasted  that  are  passed  amid  such  scenes,  nor  are 
disapi)ointmentH  serious  that  are  accompanied 
with  new  health  and  every  sense  made  keen. 
Forced  to  abandon  the  now  alarmed  sheep,  we 
scatuu>d  the  mountain  sides  from  commanding 
points  for  bison,  elk,  or  sheep,  hut  saw  no  more ; 
so  we  made  our  way  laboriously  to  our  horses  and 
rode  back  to  camp,  where  we  arranged  our  tents, 
collected  wood  and  laid  down  by  the  fire,  listen- 
ing to  the  wild-animal  cries,  while  waiting  for 
Louis  Link's  return.  He  came  in  long  after 
dark,  picketed  his  mule,  and  gave  his  report.  He 
had  been  many  miles  often  above  timber  line, 
where  he  had  to  break  a  road  for  his  mule 
through  the  snow,  and  came  at  last  upon  three 
fine  mountain  bison :  one  he  killed,  a  second  was 
hard  hit  and  left  a  bloody  trail,  which  he  had  fol- 
lowed a  mile,  when  night  obliged  him  to  return. 
This  was  cheering  news,  and  after  arranging  to 
go  in  next  morning  for  the  slain,  and  perhaps  for 
the  wounded  bison,  we  curled  up  in  our  blankets, 
which  were  soou  covered  by  a  light,  dry  snowfall. 


S-^.-r"'^  •?-'*'"»?  ' 


CHAPTER  IV. 


COLOUADO. 


Thk  dawn  of  a  snowy  moiiiinjjf  had  hardly 
nuule  visible  the  banks  t)f  our  narrow  ravine  be- 
fore we  were  in  the  saddle,  making  our  way  to 
bring  in  the  bison  shot  the  evening  before.  Our 
path  was  the  margin  of  a  small  stream  that  had, 
in  geological  periods,  worn  a  canon  through  th« 
mountains.  A  low  growth  of  willows  hid  the 
brook,  except  where  frequent  beaver  danis  had 
flowed  spaces  that,  filled  with  sediment,  formed 
"  beaver  meadows." 

The  mountaui  slope  facing  north  was  densely 
wooded  with  spruce  and  balsam;  the  southern 
slope,  too  dry  from  exposure  to  sunshine,  had  but 
scattered  trees,  and  upon  this,  where  the  dry 
grasses  remained,  cured  into  natural  hay,  we  cast 


iSAa.T^^Lifimnmauat-'  ^i»^s'"=»'»U»|i«»»s»ss*i  '^ii&'-i, 


arrsY  days. 


ul  hunlly 
iivluo  be- 
ur  way  to 
[)re.  Our 
that  had, 
rough  th»! 
s  hid  the 
dauis  had 
it,  fonui'd 

is  densely 
!  southern 
e,  had  but 
3  the  dry 
ly,  we  cast 


our  eyes  .m  •''»  wont  along  in  Hie,  with  the  hope 
of  finding   nvountain   sheep.      Mr.   Link  was    in 
advance,  with  his  twelve-pound   rifle  lying  over 
his   saddle,  scanning  with  keen  eyes  the  burned 
spots  aud  fallen  timber,  when  suddenly  he  sprang 
horn  hiri  horse,  and,  resting  his  elbow  on  his  knee, 
aimed   carefully  but  quickly  up  the  rocky  cliff 
and  fired.     Our  dogs  rushed  up  the  hank,  and  in 
a  moment  were  tussling  with  a  fatally  wounded 
mountain  sheep  on  so  steep  an  incline  that  all 
came  rolling  down,  together  with  dislodged  stones 
and  brushwood,  an  avalanche  of  snarling,  yelping 
fur  and  wool.     The  animal  was  just  passing  some 
large  rocks,  giving  Mr.  Link  no  time  to  point  it 
out  to  me,  or  even  to  wait  my  coming  up,  and 
consequently  the  only  fair  shot  was  lost.     It  was 
a  fine  animal,— agile,  alert  and  thoroughly  game, 
more  so  in   many  respects  than  the  deer,  than 
which  the  sheep  is  the   finer  trophy.     Leaving 
it  in  the  snow,  observing  the  hunter's  custom 
of  layuig  by  it  some  article  that  had  been  worn 
on  the  person,  to  keep  off  the  "  varmint "  that 
recognize  even  by  scent  the  presence  of  anything 
indicating  man's  royal  prerogative  to  his  game, 
we  went  on  in  the  snow,  that  grew  deeper  as  we 
gained  altitude,  until  it  was  up  to  the  stirrups, 


«iMwti<rt«i»;,rt*»»3i*srti  -a**^--*^-- 


30 


OYPSY  DAYS. 


and  our  animals  could  only  make  progress  by  put- 
ting  first  one  and  then  another  in  advance  to  en- 
dure the  fatigue  of  breaking  a  track.  It  was 
rough  riding,  stumbling  over  logs,  stones  and 
snow-filled  hollows,  and  our  elevation  was  becom- 
ing so  great  that  our  horses,  as  well  as  ourselves, 
breathed  with  difficulty. 

To  go  light  when  an  ounce  soon  becomes  a 
pound,  our  aneroid  barometer  was  left  in  camp ; 
but  by  comparing  our  height  with  other  ascer- 
tained points,  we  made  our  final  altitude  about 
11,500  to  12,000  feet.  When  the  snow-squalls 
drifted  away  we  gained  views  of  wonderful  variety 
and  extent  through  rifts  in  the  clouds,  that  hid 
the  wild  scenes  quickly  again  with  their  wreaths 

of  mist. 

Quite  exhausted,  we  came  at  last  where  the 
bison  had  fallen,  and  thence  followed  a  deep  and 
blood-stained  path,  where  the  wounded  beast  had 
rolled  over  the  rocks,  beating  down  the  deep  snow ; 
until  we  found  the  finest  game  animal  we  ever 
saw  lying  a  mass  of  superb  glossy  black  hair,  with 
his  white  horns  thrown  back  and  his  jet-black 
hoofs  in  the  air,  prone  like  a  fallen  oak. 

How  great  a  distinction  naturalists  make  b 
tween  the  buffalo,  or  bison  of  the  plains,  and  his 


'6- 


'■3;"*Mfii2l'e-''^U-'  ■V'^' 


.-■ii?  fi^\if^*^-v>t'>^^:^'^>iBl^S«*'"^"'i^^*^ 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


31 


rress  by  put- 
Ivance  to  en- 
ick.  It  was 
stones  and 
\  was  becom- 
as  ourselves, 

1  becomes  a 
aft  in  camp ; 

other  ascer- 
Ititude  about 

snow-squalls 
derf  ul  variety 
uds,  that  hid 
their  wreaths 

st  where  the 
id  a  deep  and 
led  beast  had 
lie  deep  snow ; 
limal  we  ever 
ack  hair,  with 
his  jet-black 
oak. 

ists  make  be- 
)lains,  and  his 


kinsman  of  the  mountains,  let  them  explain. 
Very  little  anatomical  difference  will  probably  be 
found;  but  the  noble  specimen  lying  before  us 
was  far  finer  in  all  respects  than  any  from  the 
low  land,  and  well  might  he  be :  for  his  home  was 
in  the  pure  air  of  the  highest  mountains,  where 
the  sparkling  water  and  fresh  verdure  of  a  brief 
summer,  and  the  keen  air  of  a  long  winter,  would 
bring  to  perfection  all  the  qualities  of  strength, 
fine  coat,  and  sura-footed  vigor  that  is  so  admired 
in  game.  A  second  one  of  the  herd  had  been 
badly  wounded;  and  had  we  brought  up  our 
blankets  and  provisions  we  should  have  followed 
the  trail,  now  reluctantly  abandoned. 

The  great  head,  skin  and  legs  of  the  bison 
made  a  heavy  load  for  one  of  our  horses,  a  load 
that  would  have  frightened  Tam  O'Shanter,  or 
the  schoolmaster  of  Sleepy  Hollow,  had  they  met 
it  —  head,  horns,  hoofs,  and  tail  on  a  black  horse 
by  moonlight,  —  and  the  quarters  were  staggering 
burdens  for  our  two  remaining  horses,  one  of 
which,  as  an  Irishman  would  say,  was  a  mule,  a 
wily  beast,  who,  when  our  eyes  were  turned, 
would  quietly  lie  down  and  roll  out  from  under 
his  load,  and  then  stand  looking  at  it  with  a  look 
of  serene  satisfaction,  that  was  not  disturbed  by 


w.*  ^--^r'^  V^-iT»*^ft--^^>=*^*>P'^*'^ 


.:.e^'>---^.'r:tc^'^i<j^tA~„- 


32 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


the  liberal  amount  of  kicks  and  curses  that  ac- 
companied the  laborious  work  of  hoisting  the 
meat  up  again. 

Our  camp  was  now  well  supplied,  and,  wishing 
to  try  our  disappointed  hand  at  the  elk,  we  broke 
up  and  went  back  to  Mr.  Louis  Link's,  whence, 
with  two  horses,  our  blankets  behind  us,  and  our 
mugs  and  tea-pot  rattling  on  the  saddle  bows,  we 
started  after  elk,  expecting  to  sleep  under  trees 
and  make  our  tea  from  melted  snow,  hoping  by 
going  light  to  overtake  a  band  and  win  antlers 
as  a  trophy. 

Before  night  we  found  a  trail  of  eight  elk,  and 
followed  it  far  enough  to  form  an  opinion  as  to 
where  they  were  herded.  Early  the  next  morn- 
ing we  were  up,  and  welcomed  the  sunlight  as  it 
came  gilding  the  mountain  tops.  A  spotless 
snow  covered  all,  —  valley,  plain  and  mountain 
top,  —  and  eagerly  we  scanned  the  wide  outlook 
for  game.  A  sneaking  wolf  was  slowly  making 
his  way  from  one  copse  to  the  next,  sniffing  the 
air,  evidently  unsuccessful  and  hungry  after  his 
night's  prowl,  — the  only  Uving  thing  in  sight 
except  some  gay  magpies  and  camp-haunting  meat 
birds ;  but  as  we  were  watching,  a  distant  roar 
came  faintly  on  the  crisp  air,  and  we  recognized 


^vr  .ii^:?^^^^;.af»U>ltii«;**«v-.3aeS*1^eS4SeeS*i'. 


««i»?**SS«i*»W.S*iwl™=«*»aiR« 


**'.lHWK»8«i*l» 


orrsr  days. 


88 


5."i/ 


ses  that  ac- 
loisting   the 

md,  wishing 
Ik,  we  broke 
k's,  whence, 
us,  and  our 
lie  bows,  we 

under  trees 
V,  hoping  by 

win  antlers 

tght  elk,  and 
pinion  as  to 

next  morn- 
Linlight  as  it 
A  spotless 
nd  mountain 
wide  outlook 
owly  making 
,  sniffing  the 
gry  after  his 
ing  in  sight 
aunting  meat 

distant  roar 
re  recognized 


the  call  of  the  elk,  and  a  response  from  some 
listening  rival.  Quickly,  iiuloed,  was  our  light 
breakfast  made,  and  wo  were  off.  Fortunately 
there  was  no  fine  old  china  to  pack  up,  nor  had 
we  a  hotel  bill  to  settle  with  a  leisurely  swell 
clerk.  It  was  only  a  last  pull  at  the  girths  and 
fresh  cartridges  in  our  rifles,  and  we  were  urging 
our  horses  to  the  point  whence  came  the  elk  calls. 
A  few  miles  brought  us  to  the  hill  where  Mr, 
Link's  long  experience  told  him  we  were  likely  to 
find  the  game,  and  here  the  signs  were  abundant 
indeed.  The  snow  was  printed  with  many  paths, 
some  with  hoof  marks  as  large  as  those  of  an  ox, 
but  easily  distinguishable  by  being  longer,  nar- 
rower and  more  clearly  cut.  Carefully  choosing 
the  freshest  trail,  one  where  there  had  evidently 
been  a  "  monarch  of  the  glen,"  with  a  royal 
crown  of  antlers,  we  followed  it,  our  eyes  peering 
into  every  thicket,  with  long  pauses  upon  each 
knoll  that  gave  us  a  chance  to  scan  the  valleys, 
and  thus,  %\ith  our  rifltb  ready,  we  went  for  many 
a  mile,  or,  to  shorten  a  long  story,  for  ten  hours, 
only  in  the  end  to  find  that  the  band  had  retraced 
their  steps  nearly  to  our  starting-point  and  thence 
gone  away,  perhaps  alarmed  by  our  having  been 
there.     Farther  present  pursuit  we  were  unequal 


bOmi^ti^rSCi^liS^V-- 


'.  ^i»s£afaBS!Ss%i8S;^fteai!<9Bt--i?-y: '  iii'th'^.j-- 


84 


OrrSY  DAYS. 


to.  Our  horses  Avere  jaded  from  their  long  travel 
through  deep  snow,  and  with  great  regret  we 
made  our  way  homeward,  our  time  not  permitting 
another  hunt;  but  so  charmed  with  the  life  here, 
and  so  impressed  with  the  variety  and  noble 
character  of  the  game  of  the  Colorado  Parks, 
that  a  strong  impulse  remained  to  try  it  again, 
when  more  time  might  permit  a  long  chase. 

Going  again,  we  would  use  pack  mules  to  carry 
camp  necessities,  and  then,  once  on  the  trail  of 
elk,  sheep,  or  bison,  keep  upon  it,  camping  where 
night  should  find  us,  thus  saving  the  weariness 
and  waste  time  of  going  miles  back  to  camp. 
Thus  success  in  the  end  would  be  certain,  and 
delays  and  difficulties  merely  enhance  the  value 
of  the  final  triumph  of  a  hunter's  victory  over 
the  keen  scent,  alert  eyes,  acute  hearing,  and 
almost  tireless  speed  of  our  finest  game  animals. 

•  The  veurs  that  have  passed  without  this  plan  having  been 
carried  ot\t,  have  seen  the  game  animals  of  these  mountain  fast- 
ne"  es  prac'tieallv  exterminated,  so  mueh  so  that  the  Inhabitants 
of  the  ranges  will  see  them  hereafter  only  where  they  are  pre- 
serA-ecUn  parks  and  museums. 


•  4  tVl,ftrt»>^i-'*'.!i^I  »ii>.f  MJi-Mf-ViaiiaflWij;-' "  .  J*i»i-**»W».f'Aiii»'' 


;rii>n*ii»3«S**---fe-«»'«WeJ#ti"'»'*^**'^'***^-^ 


mg  travel 
egret  we 
emitting 
life  here, 
11(1  noble 
o  Parks, 
it  again, 
ase. 

3  to  carry 
e  trail  of 
ing  where 
weariness 
to  camp, 
rtain,  and 
the  value 
itory  over 
ring,  and 
animals.* 

having  been 
ountaln  fast- 
ic  Inhabitants 
they  are  pre- 


CHAPTER   V. 


CALIFORNIA. 


"  A  FOUR-SPRING  is  what  you  want,  sir,  two 
strong  side  springs,  box  well  up  for  fording 
streams,  a  wagon  that  will  carry  sixteen  hundred 
and  not  leave  it  in  a  heap,  —  a  trap  that  two 
American  horses  can  draw,  or  four  half-breeds 
can  buck  before.  Yes,  sir;  that  is  what  you 
want,  and  we  can  turn  it  out  in  a  month." 

This  was  sound  '^ounsel  from  a  German  wagon- 
maker,  as  he  stood  in  the  warm  sunshine  of  Feb- 
ruary, in  front  of  his  shop  in  Los  Angeles,  giving 
a  final  summing  up  of  a  long-continued  con- 
sideration of  the  best  form  of  conveyance  for  a 
Gypsy  trip  through  California,  to  be  taken  when 
the  spring  heat  should  fall  on  the  ground  still 
moist  from  the  abundant  rains  of  the  winter  of 


rsv^^te^i^afe^^feii'-^^^^S"*'-*'^ 


86 


aVPSY  DAYS. 


1876,  and  summon  the  wealth  of  bloom  and  ver- 
dure that  in  Southern  California  is  the  growth  of 
a  few  weeks  of  early  spring,  —  a  sudden  over- 
whelming of  luxurious  vegetation. 

March,  the  month  of  the  "Mad  Hare,"  as  all 
know,  has  few  adherents  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  Sierra,  where  it  is  regretted  that  he  who 
"stole  a  March"  did  not  steal  them  all,  with 
their  wrangles  and  struggles  for  mastery  between 
the  sun,  the  south  wind,  and  storm-centres  from 
Manitoba,  each  winning  ground  to  he  surrendered 
without  conditions  the  next  day,  and  so  contend- 
ing until  April  wins  the  cause  of  mildness  and 
repose ;  but  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  March 
smiles  with  myriad  bloom,  wins  our  affection  with 
all  the  wiles  of  soft  and  gentle  breezes,  and  dis- 
plays all  the  charms  a  lovely  season  can  possess. 

Sunshine  later  on,  becomes  actually  wearisome; 
for  be  it  known  to  ardent  enthusiasts  of  blue 
sky  and  days  of  sunbeams  that  there  is  such  a 
thing  as  too  much  sunshine,  although  it  is  not  so 
stated  in  the  manifold  enumerations  of  the  attrac- 
tions of  our  Pacific  margin.  A  week  of  serene 
cloudless  sky  is  just  jolly ;  a  month  is  possibly 
delightful.  But  when  one  cloudless,  rainless 
month  repeats  tte  monotone  of  another  just  as 


fc«a»wi.ia«3>.ww*s**i«*''  *.»*.i**«*w^%**M(im^.»»'V«a(^i^  '- 


GTPST  DAYS. 


37 


XV  and  ver- 
jrrowth  of 
Iden  over- 


re,"  as  all 
in  side  of 
t  he   who 

I  all,  with 
•y  between 
litres  from 
urrendered 
io  contend- 
Idness  and 
ific,  March 
eetion  with 
?s,  and  dis- 

II  possess, 
wearisome ; 
;ts  of  blue 

Is  such  a 
it  is  not  so 

the  attrac- 
i  of  serene 

is  possibly 
is,  rainless 
her  just  as 


dry;  when  the  shrubs  whither  and  the  fields 
assume  the  hue  of  bare  earth  ;  when,  if  one  can- 
not irrigate  a  garden,  there  is  no  resource  but  to 
weep  over  it  (a  task  the  clouds  will  not  assume 
for  many  months  of  unmitigated  sunshine) :  there 
is  just  the  faintest  suspicion  that  there  may  be 
too  much  of  so  good  a  gift  as  sunshine.  More- 
over, in  summer  the  air  of  the  great  valleys  that 
lie  between  the  Sierras  and  the  Sea  quivers  with 
heat  and  rises  from  expansion,  while  the  cold 
breeze  from  the  Arctic  currents  just  off  shore 
rushes  in  to  fill  the  vacuum  and  burns  all  vegeta- 
tion from  the  western  face  of  the  coast  range 
hills.  Where  there  are  openings  in  the  coast 
range,  as  at  San  Francisco,  this  daily  summer 
gale  is  as  regular  as  sunrise,  and  it  wafts  the  pe- 
destrian gently  from  the  street  crossing  with  coo' 
persuasion. 

But  stop,  we  have  let  our  good  wagon-maker 
stand  while  we  are  garrulous  about  climate, —  a 
most  unusual  digression  indeed  ;  for  who  is  ever 
known  to  dilate  regarding  cUmate  in  Southern 
California  ? 

The  vehicle  was  duly  ordered  and  once  under 
construction  was  subject  to  daily  superintendence. 
Our  lodgings,  meanwhile,  were  on  a  terrace  not 


A-^ttiSkWimii^m^^ 


^*t?»Wt«fTf 


38 


H  YPS  Y  DA  YS. 


far  from  the  old  Pico  I  louse,  acceftsible  by  stuirs, 
or  by  a  crooked  lane  that  led  by  low  old  houses 
of  the  Spanish  style,  —  cottajjfes  we  would  have 
forjrotten  but  for  the  tall  geraniums  that  flaunted 
their  gay  bloom  before  the  second-story  windows 
in  unchecked  luxuriance. 

When  we  were  not  examining  the  wagon  in  its 
progressive  stages,  we  had  before  us  a  charming 
view.  To  the  eastward,  from  a  porch,  we  looked 
upon  the  tiled  roofs  about  the  old  church  and 
into  the  convent  yards,  where  processions  of 
priests  and  nuns  passed  as  the  half-dozen  jingling 
bells  rang  Spanish  fashion  their  rather  hilarious 
calls  to  devotion.  As  the  eye  was  lifted,  palm, 
olive  and  orange  trees  were  seen  on  the  borders 
of  the  town ;  beyond  them  a  rolling  plain  that 
attained  more  and  more  bold  contour  until  the 
hills  became  the  foreground  of  the  San  Barna- 
dino  range,  whose  lofty  summits,  snow-crowned, 
were  beautiful  objects,  giving  an  endless  variety 
of  sky-line  and  color.  At  times  snowstorms 
would  hide  them  in  billows  of  cloud  that  were 
often  made  warm-hued  and  rosy  to  our  eyes  by 
the  sun.  The  air,  crystal-clear,  made  distance  of 
little  effect  in  even  very  remote  objects  :  so,  in  all 
the  changes  of  storm,  shadow,  sunlight  and  even 


*.♦^^^sg^!^^:^;^?J-«j;-i^:^•4^V,<Cfe^i<***£*-■■■•^  • 


^  «ffl5=^*iia&>»Si*'»?it'**  ■ia)!Si«a*f«*«KS»i»>iU*:**»8BteS^!!<Wi»^.;«f»W^ 


GYPSY  DATS. 


89 


e  1)V  stuirs, 
old  houses 
noiild  have 
lilt  Haunted 
ry  Avindows 

ragon  in  its 
1  charming 
,  we  looked 
church  and 
cessions  of 
en  jingling 
er  hilarious 
ifted,  palm, 
the  borders 

plain  that 
ir  until  the 
3an  Barna- 
)w-crowned, 
Hess  variety 
snow-storms 
I  that  were 
ur  eyes  by 

distance  of 
;s :  so,  in  all 
it  and  even 


moonlight,  the  eye  commanded  an  immense  range 
of  varied  scenes  all  sharply  defined. 

Turning  south  and  westward,  the  view  was 
wide  and  open  over  the  city  to  the  Pacific,  spark- 
ling in  the  sunshine  with  the  islands  of  Santa  Cata- 
lina  and  Santa  Barbara,  objects  of  great  beauty  and 
interest.  Looking  at  the  islands  through  the  shim- 
mering light  over  the  ocean,  we  saw  constantly  the 
optical  caprices  of  mirage,  under  whose  misrepre- 
sentations the  islands  assumed  the  most  grotesque 
forms.  They  stood  often  re})eated  above  their 
actual  selves,  sometimes  right  side  up ;  but  more 
frequently,  in  the  illusion,  the  sharp  mountain 
peaks  were  reversed,  or  at  times  the  high  points 
were  cut  off  completely.  These  islands  are  now 
probably  solid  property,  mirage  included,  held 
down  by  the  price  of  corner  lots,  and  their  finan- 
cial fluctuations  as  surprisingly  phenomenal  as 
the  vagaries  of  the  mirage  that  so  magnified  their 
picturesque  outlines.  .... 


»Mln«aa»»(illfeilES^iiMM  <^ 


■;:^^imi^  -'st«^i^  ^'--- 


CHAPTER  VI. 

We  could  not  get  away  until  the  paint  was 
dry  on  our  wagon,  and  it  took  time  to  dry  paint 
and  varnish  even  in  this  land  of  .uperfluous  sun- 
shine ;  although,  in  order  to  get  them  out  rapidly, 
the  plain  facts  about  Southern  California  are 
often  sent  out  nominally  "unvarnished;"  but, 
for  long  endurance,  wagons  and  statements  are 
better  for  dry  treatment. 

One  who  has  rambled  through  old  Spain  can 
well  understand  why  Spanish  occupation  first 
obtained  strong  hold  in  so  many  sections  of  the 
New  World.  Looking  from  the  top  of  a  dili- 
gence as  one  swings  along  amid  mountains 
crowned  with  walled  towns  of  Moorish  type  and 
time  in  Castile  or  Grenada,  the  face  of  the  land 


.!-.»>SjM<iii>S'.«tei*<i*'*S*'-<  "»S'i*i#*«Si 


>sM*«^*iai:a«oes*i**ai?-©^^ 


GYPSY  DAYB. 


41 


»e  paint  was 
to  dry  paint 
erfluons  sun- 
i  out  rapidly, 
lalifornia  are 
lished;"  but, 
tatements  are 

Id  Spain  can 
mpation  first 
ctions  of  the 
;op  of  a  dili- 
id  mountains 
rish  type  and 
e  of  the  land 


is  that  of  Southern  California.  The  yellow  po])- 
piea  and  kindred  masses  of  wild  hlooni  in  fields 
bounded  by  hedfj^os  of  Spanish  bayonet  are  those 
whose  seeds  wont  with  the  germs  of  useful  grains 
to  the  gardens  of  the  Jesuits,  who  carried  faith, 
civiliziition  and  agriculture  to  the  missions  on  the 
Pacific  :  those  old  missions  where  olives  still  show 
their  gray-green  foliage  over  walls  of  c<actus; 
where  oranges  grow  from  Spanish  or  Moorish 
seeds,  and  the  half*idle  impulses  of  a  mixed  race 
repeated  in  varied  ways,  from  early  mass  to  cock- 
fighting,  the  good  and  the  bad  of  Spanish  inherit- 
ance, until  the  gold-hunting  Americans  came  to 
replace  satisfied  stagnation  by  progress  and  all 
that  progress  means  to  a  "  live  "  Yankee. 

To  English  or  Dutch  adventurers  of  two  cen- 
turies ago,  the  rolling  sun-burned  hills  and  dry 
plains  of  California  promised  little.  Neither  their 
systems  of  agriculture  nor  their  ideas  of  climate 
would  fit :  their  plants  would  hardly  grow ;  so 
they  sailed  to  the  far  north  where  dense  fogs  and 
abundant  irrigation  from  above  five  days  out  of 
each  week  made  them  feel  charmingly  at  home. 
We  can  imagine  that,  were  the  sunny  State  of 
California  to  be  discovered  in  the  royal  present 
by  an  Englishman,  he  would  term  it  "  blasted  'ot, 


.JjlS5.»ii^^*»li»sii■  ^^'-  '•»*"■ 


4S 


nri'ST  DAYS. 


don't  you  k.u»w;"  yet  go  on  the  piinhed  hilU 
with  his  trousns  turned  up,  hearing  a  top-c(mt 
and  unihnlhi,  for  a  year  or  two,  no  more  rashly 
inclined  t.)  adapt  himself  to  new  elreumstanees 
than  he  is  to  make  a  railway-ear  other  than  a 
series  of  eoaehes,  or  huy  his  tieket  at  other  than 
a   hooking-olliee    survival   of    aneiewt    coaching 
days.     What  a  lot  of  well-seleeted  dead  past  a 
IJriton  does  hear  with  him,  and  how  oddly  it  fits 
California  in  its  original  form,  where,  nevertheless, 
many  dehghtful  young  scions  from  good  fanulies 
of  Old  England  are  falling  slowly  hut  gracefully 
into  new  ways  of  great  prosperity  !   To  the  Span- 
iard, on  the  reverse,  the  climate,  soil  and  vegeta- 
tion,   with   all    the    proper   seeds,   systems    and 
methods  of  cultivation  hy  irrigation,  were  home 
taught  and  at  once  rewarded  by  success,  while  the 
simple-minded  Indian  inhabitants  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  oftered  a  tempting  and  encouraging  class 
of  converts  to  a  faith  so  attractive  as  ritual  and 
gaudy  ceremonial  made  the  Church  of  Spain  to 
their  rude  minds.     There  was  little  to  unlearn 
or  acquire  on  the  part  of  the  Spaniards  in  South- 
ern California :  hence  the  strong,  early  and  lasting 
footing  they  obtained,  —  one  that  enabled  them 
to  impress  their  characteristics  so  deeply  that 


'""•(Bra-'  «^««l«^l^^iic 


.;Sv»S<  ^V.?;:#*S*#&t*l*«-*^*'"'*'*'-**' 


rrirfiS<cS&*fta«e*'^«»i*N?*«**"'>^-' 


:.,m^i9^' 


arrsT  days. 


48 


«r  a  tt>p-eoat 

inori)  rushly 

•Ircuuistanees 

uthcr  than  a 
it  other  than 
'ttt    couching 

dead  past  a 
f  oddly  it  fits 
,  nevertheleas, 
jrood  families 
but  gracefully 

To  the  Span- 
il  and  vegeta- 

systems  and 
)n,  were  home 
icess,  while  the 
of  the  Pacific 
ouraging  class 

as  ritual  and 
h  of  Spain  to 
tie  to  unlearn 
iards  in  South- 
irly  and  lasting 

enabled  them 
30  deeply  that 


many  of  their  customs  will  only  pass  away  with 
tho  few  remaining  SpaiiiHli  ranchcroH  who  still 
cling  to  Castilian  ways  of  olden  time.  Their  ohl 
mission  of  San  Gabriel,  near  Los  Angeles,  is 
yet  in  a  degree  pieturestjue,  with  a  high  wall 
pierced  for  bells  as  a  campanih!,  and  when  in  its 
prime,  with  its  irrigating  system,  gardens  and  poa- 
sessious,  it  must  have  been  an  impressive  struc- 
ture to  the  lasso-slinging  caballero  and  simple- 
minded  Pueblo  Indian. 

The  large  irrigated  orange  is  golden,  more  beau- 
tiful than  luscious,  or  was  when  we  lunched  under 
tho  trees,  eager  to  escape  the  e<pial  discomforts  of 
a  hot  sun  and  over-cool  breeze ;  but  time  and  skill 
have  now  lessened  the  ratio  of  skin  to  pulp  and 
juice,  and  it  is  a  favorite  variety. 

It  is  modestly  assumed  that  Southern  Califor- 
nia will  raise  everything,  from  great  expectations 
to  small  fruits,  and  there  is  fair  reason  to  grant  a 
large  part  of  i.he  simple-minded  claims  so  diffi- 
dently made  for  this  semi-tropical  region,  where 
beyond  question  a  rich  and  dense  population  will 
find  prosperous  homes,  surrounded  by  a  great 
deal  that  is  extremely  attractive. 

But  these  are  not  considerations  for  Bohemian 
ramblers,  so  we  will  fit  up  the  wagon  to  be  ready 


44 


OYPSY  DATS. 


when  the  paint  is  dry.  The  front  seat  was  high 
enough  to  give  room  for  a  trunk,  and  the  foot- 
board was  like  that  of  a  coach,  leaving  a  space 
for  grain-bags  behind  the  driver's  feet.  The 
back  seat  had  a  white  canvas  tojf  over  strong 
bows,  that  always  sustained  all  manner  of  loops, 
pockets  and  hooks  for  odds  and  ends.  Under 
the  back  seat  were  spaces  for  boxes  that  contained 
supplies  and  our  cooking  "  plant,"  which  cost  no 
end  of  thought  and  frequent  conference  with 
skilful  mechanics;  but  all  proved  so  well  fitted 
for  roughing  it  that  a  description  of  the  traps 
may  be  useful. 

A  stove  is  an  essential  in  California  camping, 
where  fuel  is  at  times  scarce,  and  where  amid  the 
wheat  no  unprotected  fires  are  permitted  while 
the  great  fields  are  ripening.  Our  stove  was  of 
sheet-iron,  made  without  a  bottom,  and  after  use 
was  lifted  up  from  the  ground,  leaving  the  ashes. 
It  was  cleaned  and  turned  over  into  a  box  that 
it  fitted  like  a  lining,  really  taking  no  room.  All 
the  varied  cooking  things  were  nested  inside  of  it 
and  went  in  safely.  Each  piece  of  stove-pipe 
was  slightly  conictJ,  one  went  into  another,  and 
all  were  slipped  over  the  tent  poles,  which  were 
tied  under  the  reach  of  the  wagon.     Our  main 


t#?^-^.V^fr>f  '»V-%Sf  .V'^c^^r^  ^ 


^iSe£<^4*,sftk>^«t.S^  *,  2^^iticfmt4^ik^  '  .v«^^>^>^ifej:fei^^:t^^5%-l^j^^^ 


0TP8YDATS. 


45 


seat  was  high 
and  the  foot- 
iving  a  space 
B  feet.  The 
f'  over  strong 
iner  of  loops, 
ends.  Under 
bhat  contained 
vhich  cost  no 
nference  with 
so  well  fitted 
of  the  traps 

rnia  camping, 
[lere  amid  the 
irmitted  while 

stove  was  of 
and  after  use 
ing  the  ashes, 
ito  a  hox  that 
10  room.  All 
;ed  inside  of  it 

of  stove-pipe 
>  another,  and 
js,  which  were 
n.     Our  main 


cooking-utensil  was  an  original  adaptation  that 
saved  us  all  fear  of  scorched  oatmeal  or  burned  rice, 
and  also  relieved  us  from  the  necessity  of  stirring 
everything  that  should  be  cooked  with  one  hand 
while  rubbing  smoke  from  our  eyes  with  the 
other.  It  was  a  water-bath  cooker  made  square, 
to  go  in  one  end  of  the  stove  when  packed,  about 
nine  by  twelve  inches,  of  strong  tin  with  a  copper 
bottom  fitting  the  stove  holes.  Two  cylindrical 
cans,  one  five  and  the  other  five  and  a  half  inches 
in  diameter,  went  through  the  cover  (sustained 
when  in  use  by  rings  pressed  around  them),  about 
two  inches  clear  of  the  bottom  of  the  main 
cooker.  There  were  lids  for  these  cans,  and  the 
same  fitted  the  cover  of  the  main  cooker  when 
the  cans  were  not  in  use.  All  knives  and  forks 
were  carried  in  the  small  can,  that  nested  in  the 
large  one,  which  went  in  the  cooker  with  room 
for  all  needed  tin  plates  and  many  small  traps. 
Thus  in  a  small  space  our  stove  and  cooking  out- 
fit were  carried,  and  they  never  turned  out  a  culi- 
nary failure,  —  can  more  be  said  of  a  complete 
kitchen  ?  In  making  camp  the  stove  was  out  in 
a  moment,  a  fire  roaring,  and  the  cooker  on  it. 
A  very  comforting  combination  was  jack  rabbit 
in  curry  with  potatoes,  boiling  in  the  main  cooker, 


as^jftBSBs&itesSftpH*.- 


9fSfte*aa"*- i«r  ^*^  f* 


1'  'i 


46 


OYPST  DATS. 


and  half-boiling,  half-steaming  rico  in  one  can 
and  oatmeal  in  the  other,  all  going  at  once  in  a 
compact  form  on  one  hole  of  the  stove,  and  no 
trouble.  Oatmeal  could  cook  all  night;  hot  fire 
could  not  harm  it;  if  the  fire  went  out,  the  water 
remained  warm  for  hours,  so  that  there  was  one 
thing  ready  for  early  breakfast  beside  voracious 
appetites  that  needed  no  stimulant. 


■j«aW**«te- 


i>^Sja= 


I  in  one  can 
at  once  in  a 
itove,  and  no 
ight;  hot  fire 
)ut,  the  water 
there  was  one 
jide  voracious 


S*l^^^#*W-iSK*l- 


CHAPTER  VII. 

When  we  were  about  to  start,  our  friends 
mentioned  snakes,  alluded  to  tarantulas,  and 
spoke  of  centipedes.  They  told  too,  of  bold 
higbva  Tien  who  had  "  held  up "  the  stage 
twel'  .vp  on   the   coast   range   route  within 

a  yeai  .:^,x  had  financial  transactions  with  the 
passengers :  so  we  were  not  unwarned  of  annoy- 
ances. To  seclude  ourselves  from  a  low  intimacy 
with  creeping  things,  we  arranged  our  wagon  for 
sleeping  accommodation.  A  light  boarding  made 
the  support  for  a  small  mattress,  and  this  was 
suspended  from  the  bows  of  the  wagon  as  an 
upper  berth  for  the  petite  member  of  the  party ; 
while  a  longer  mattress  fitted  the  bottom  of  the 
wagon,  all  snugly  canvas-covered,  with  reading- 


48 


OTPSY  DAYS. 


lamps  and  many  convenient  arrangements  wholly 
practical,  as  one  night's  use  proved :  after  which 
we  forgot  snakes  and  their  kin,  none  of  whom 
even  suggested  themselves,  and  slept  undisturbed 
in  our  tents. 

The  base  of  the  upper  berth  had  legs  fitted, 
and  with  them  in  it  served  admirably  as  a  table, 
as  well  as  a  rack  behind  the  wagon  top,  when  en 
route  to  support  our  mattresses  and  covers,  all  of 
which  were  rolled  in  great  dust-proof  wraps. 

Three  tents  were  carried :  one  for  our  own 
use,  one  for  our  men  (driver  and  cook),  and  one 
for  use  as  a  dressing  and  bath  room  fully  fitted 
for  all  purposes. 

All  these  and  many  more  provisions  for 
comfort  and  safety  were  made  when  the  time 
came  to  select  horses.  Horses  were  cheap  and 
abundant,  but  good  trusty  beasts  were  excep- 
tional. 

Our  first  pair  had  one  noble  animal,  strong, 
patient,  handsome,  and  kind :  a  good  average  for 
a  first  attempt.  His  mate  had  no  turn  for  busi- 
ness ;  his  prominent  idea  was  to  pose  as  a  model 
for  statuary  and  paw  the  air  as  no  horse  should 
that  had  never  seen  the  bronzes  at  Washington. 
He  was  sold  at  a  loss  without  delay,  and  a  big 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


49 


ts  wholly 
ter  which 
of  whom 
disturbed 

gs  fitted, 
I  a  table, 
when  en 
ers,  all  of 
raps, 
our  own 
,  and  one 
ally  fitted 

sions  for 
the  time 
heap  and 
re  excep- 

,1,  strong, 
erage  for 
for  busi- 
)  a  model 
se  should 
ishington. 
Uid  a  big 


solemn  horse  purchased  to  replace  him  at  a  street 
auction,  and  called  Jerry,  to  go  with  Tom. 

In  time  all  was  adjusted,  bundles  from  half  the 
shops  of  Los  Pueblos  de  Los  Angeles  were 
stored,  and  we  started  for  Santa  Monica  on  a 
trial  trip,  with  a  driver  of  rueful  countenance  and 
a  cook  of  unknown  merit.  En  route  a  few  damp 
places  of  adobe  mud  threatened  to  absorb  our 
wagon ;  but  we  pulled  out,  and  before  evening 
entered  a  ravine  that  opened  on  the  Pacific  just 
north  of  Santa  Monica,  then  in  its  Hush  of  early 
growth,  brilliant  with  unpainted  roofs,  and  re- 
sounding with  the  racket  of  many  hammers. 

Our  retreat  was  quiet  and  sheltered,  with 
abundant  shade,  water  and  feed  for  the  horses; 
the  latter  the  pretty  clover  alfaleria. 

As  soon  as  our  tent  was  up,  a  wild  steer  came 
rushing  up  as  if  to  carry  it  away  on  his  long  horns. 
The  cook  was  ordered  to  drive  him  away,  but 
declined  without  hesitation,  saying  he  was  afraid. 

Faute  de  mieux,  I  made  a  dash  at  him  with  a 
rail,  and  after  a  few  threatening  demonstrations 
he  turned  tail  and  disappeared,  —  the  only  really 
mischievous    beast   we  encountered  in   all    our 

rambles. 
South  of    Santa    Monica,  in    estuaries    and 


,j.^SSte»rfiS*w*-***-®*^*'»*'**^''*'"''=i**>*^*^-  -"^  '^^ 


60 


UYPSY  DAYS. 


mai-hes,  there  were  wild-fowl  iu  great  numbers. 
On  the  plain,  plover  ran  about  in  immense  flocks, 
while  high  over  head  sand  hill  cranes  croaked  as 
they  wheeled  in  long  lines.  The  beautiful  top- 
knot quail  were  in  the  low  thickets  in  quantities 
and  often  seen,  always  exciting  admiration,  with 
stylish  head-dress  and  snug-fitting  plumage. 

Below  Santa  Monica  the  wind  had  driven  pure 
sea  sand  into  hills  and  hollows,  making  the  most 
perfect  and  secluded  spot  imaginable  for  sea  and 
sun  bathing.    The  sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup- 
shaped  hollows,  which  were  some  ten  feet  deep, 
was  too  hot  to  lie   upon,  but  midway  it  was 
cooler.     A  plunge  in  the  Pacific  surf  and  a  roU 
in  the  hot  dry  sand  gave  a  bath  and  friction  that 
no  Russian  bath  could  equal ;  and  if  the  writer 
were  to  assume  any  one  cause  as  a  turning  pomt 
to  restored  health,  the  sea  and  the  sun  baths  of 
Santa  Monica  would  be  selected.     Every  nerve 
seemed  gratefiU  for  sunlight;  and  may  we  not 
find  a  truth  in  suspecting  that  the  myriad  nerves 
and  pores  of  the  sensitive  human  skin  need  more 
sun  and  air  than  they  ever  get  under  the  almost 
impervious  dress  of  civilization  ? 

Once,  when  visiting  this  unfrequented  spot,  a 
man  was  seen  at  a  distance  ploughing,  followed 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


51 


;  numbers. 
}nse  flocks, 
croaked  as 
.utiful  top- 
quantities 
ation,  with 
aage. 

iriven  pure 
r  the  most 
or  sea  and 
of  the  cup- 
feet  deep, 
«ray  it  was 
:  and  a  roll 
riction  that 
:  the  writer 
rning  point 
in  baths  of 
Ivery  nerve 
aay  we  not 
rriad  nerves 
need  more 
the  almost 

ited  spot,  a 
ig,  followed 


by  a  train  of  white  as  if  his  plough  had  uplifted 
a  furrow  of  snow.     Curiosity  impelled  a  nearer 
view,  when  it  was  discovered  that  a  flock  of  white 
sea-gulls  followed  the  footsteps  of  the  farmer, 
feeding  eagerly  on  the  grubs  and  worms  exposed 
by  the  plough.     These  gulls  were  free  from  fear ; 
for  the  good  sense  of  the  people  prevents  the 
destruction  of  useful  birds,  and  the  most  harmo- 
nious relations  exist.     In  San  Diego,  the  gulls 
were  the  scavengers;    they   sat  about   kitchen 
doors  ready  for  refuse,  and  did  not  hesitate  to 
rush  under  one's  feet  for  a  coveted  bit ;  they 
were  as  useful  and  far  more  agreeable  in  this 
capacity  than  the  turkey  buzzards  of  the  south- 
ern Atlantic  cities.     In  this  connection  it  may  be 
said  that  the  show  of  wild-fowl  in  San  Francisco 
harbor  is  very  interesting  to  strangers.     Popular 
sentiment  protects  all  birds  and  seals  within  the 
limits  of  the  city;  and  we  were  often  amused  for 
hours,  while  yachting,  to  see  huge  pelicans  plunge 
in  fearlessly  among  the  shipping  and  fill  their 
pouches  with   fish  in   perfect  confidence  within 
a  few  yards  of   us.     Outside   of  the  protected 
limits  they   are  wild  and   wary,  showing  how 
wisely  they  understand  the  bounds  of  protection 
and  danger.  . 


i^jastf^f-^i?*:!*; . 


62 


GiTSY  DATS. 


Our  days  at  Santa  Monica  were  full  of  idle 
lotus-eating  hours,  passed  watching  the  slow 
Pacific  surf  roll  in,  shooting  wild-fowl  in  the 
lagoons,  playing  in  the  sand,  and  doing  nothing 
with  energy  and  success. 


all  of  idle 

the    slow 

)wl  in  the 

ig  nothing 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

On  our  return  to  Lob  Angeles  our  wagon  was 
strengthened,  a  new  cook  replaced  the  one  afraid 
of  cattle,  who  found  safety  in  a  restaurant ;  the 
few  needful  changes  were  made  that  were  found 
desirable  in  our  outfit ;  and  we  were  again  under 
way  northward,  with  traps  of  all  kinds  in  and 
under  the  heavily  burdened  wagon. 

The  second  day  found  us  in  the  park-like 
country  so  peculiar  to  California,  where  broad- 
spreading  oaks  stand  alone,  with  all  the  stately 
beauty  of  trees  that  have  had  for  centuries  ample 
space  to  extend  their  branches  free  from  contact 
with  other  growth.  Among  them  were  blooming 
shrubs,  the  Manzanita  and  Ceanothus,  all  naturally 
so  combined  as  to  produce  the  effects  landscape 


-  .;i^J(|g®»^Si**i*>«*«*«*****^'  is=^JlKaul,Smrtr.  ■ 


M 


GTPSY  DAYS. 


gardeners  seek  to  attain,  but  rarely  achieve  except 
on  the  ancient  estates  of   England.      Here  we 
began  to  see  the  large  gay-colored  woodpecker, 
that  digs  round  pits  in  the  bark  of  the  oaks  and 
fits  an  acorn  tightly  into  each  as  provision  for 
hard  times,  a  prudent  bird,  organizing  a  savings- 
bank  system.     Another  peculiar  bird  is  el  pay- 
sano,    or   road-runner,   an   habitue  of    the   low 
thorny   cactus,  under   which  it  finds  a  retreat 
where  none  can  follow.     It  can  rarely  be  forced 
to  fly  by  a  running  horse,  but  skims  over  the 
spaces  between  the  cactus-plants  like  a  shadow, 
giving  the  observer  but  little  opportunity  to  see 
the  style  and  beauty  the  bird   possesses.     An 
unpleasant  experience  here  was  alkali  water  from 
a   stream   seemingly   pure  and    brilUant.      Our 
resources  for  drinking  were  limited,  ApoUinaris 
had  not  come  as  a  boon  to  ramblers,  and  the 
native  wines  were  too  sweet  and  heady  for  a  long 
drink.     The  art  of  making  light  wines  had  not 
then  been  generally  attained ;  but  now  delight- 
ful clarets  come  from  the  same  vineyards. 

The  Santa  Clara  River  when  we  roached  it  was 
high  and  rapid,  with  quicksand  bottom.  lu  doubt 
as  to  the  passage,  we  rested  at  the  ford  until 
some  kindly  Germans  led  the  way,  carrying  part 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


66 


ieve  except 

Here  we 
oodpecker, 

oaks  and 
tvision  for 
a  savings* 

is  el  pay 
:    the   low 

a  retreat 

be  forced 
9  over  the 
a  shadow, 
nity  to  see 
}sse8.  An 
nrater  from 
ant.  Our 
Apollinaris 
■s,  and  the 

for  a  long 
les  had  not 
[)w  delight- 
:ds. 

ched  it  was 
I.  In  doubt 

ford  until 
prying  part 


of  our  load  in  their  wagon.  So  deep  were  many 
fords  that  we  were  not  more  than  above  the  flow 
in  our  high  vehicle.  San  Buena  Ventura,  we 
passed  on  Sunday  after  a  long  drive  through 
grain-fields  and  by  pleasant  homes.  While  our 
cook  added  supplies  to  our  larder,  we  visited  the 
old  cathedral,  where  mass  was  being  chanted.  It 
is  a  well-preserved  building  with  gay  altar-tinsel 
and  large  paintings  of  the  usual  churchly  char- 
acter. 

At  the  stony  ford  of  the  San  Buena  Ventura 
River,  emigrants  were  resting  in  camp,  the 
women  washing  travel-stained  garments,  while 
the  men  repaired  their  harnesses  or  lounged 
about. 

North  of  the  river  the  road  is  on  the  ocean 
beach,  which  is  pounded  hard  by  the  swells  that 
come  many  thousands  of  miles  before  breaking 
on  this  shore.  For  a  few  miles  the  available 
beach  between  the  sea  and  the  cliffs  is  very 
narrow  and  the  passage  must  be  made  at  low 
tide.  The  six-horse  stages  are  unwilling  to  delay 
long,  and  many  stories  are  told  of  their  being 
driven  through  the  surf  with  the  horses  hardly 
able  to  withstand  the  undertow. 

The  heat  from  the  high  cliffs  with  the  reflec- 


■  :;^sb;^^^(^fi6^^^^'^^^*^-'^"'*'****^^^ 


^^  irissai^.^^8ji^,.fcS^^a^iH!,^'ii«%rv 


it^sBt^eii-^^ 


56 


UYl'SY  DAYS. 


tion  from  the  water  made  the  passage  alinont 
Biiffocatinj?,  and  it  was  a  charming  rest  to  reach 
Rincon,  where  a  pure  stream  of  good  water  runt 
into  the  sea  and  a  pleasant  camping-ground  is 

near. 

Drift-wood  was  our  fuel.  It  gave  a  very 
brilliant  light,  and,  after  the  sunset  colors  faded 
from  the  sea  and  sky,  we  sat  by  our  fire  which 
cast  its  glow  on  the  foaming  surf,  until,  soothed 
by  its  rustling,  we  gave  ourselves  up  to  the  sweet 
sleep  that  comes  most  welcome  to  those  who  are 
day  and  night  in  the  open  air. 

Each  day  of  our  rambling  tended  to  enhance 
our  enjoyment  of  gypsy  life.     It  was  character- 
ized by  freedom  from  the  restraints  and  many  of 
the  annoyances  of  travel ;  and  while  there  was  a 
great  degree  of  seclusion  in  our  camps,  we  were 
often  brought  in  friendly  contact  with  interesting 
characters  of  a  class  that  rapid  tourists  see  little  of. 
At  Rincon  we  were  near  a  pretty  vine-covered 
stage-station,  where  the  event  of  each  day  was 
the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  six-horse  coach. 
It  came  down  the  line  from  Santa  Barbara  at  a 
gallop,  and  soon  with  fresh  horses  went  dashing 
out  along  the  narrow  beach  until  it  became  a 
mere  speck  seemingly  surrounded  by  breakers. 


iii 


a  IT.V  Y  DA  VS. 


hi 


isago  alinoHt 
■est  to  reach 
1  water  runs 
iig-gruund  is 

[jave  a  very 
colors  faded 
ir  lire  which 
intil,  soothed 
to  the  sweet 
hose  who  are 

i  to  enhance 
ras  character- 
and  many  of 
e  there  was  a 
.mps,  we  were 
ith  interesting 
its  see  little  of. 
r  vine-covered 
each  day  was 
i-horse  coach. 
Barbara  at  a 
went  dashing 
[  it  became  a 
J  breakers. 


Our  dressing-tent  was  erected  on  the  beach, 
where  an  elastic  bath-tub  was  inflated,  affording 
us  delightful  sea-baths  in  water  warmed  by  the 
sun.  It  was  March  ;  but  the  waves  that  broke  on 
the  beach  derived  their  energy  from  gales  that 
came  not  with  them ;  all  was  warm,  serene  and 
beautiful  about  us.  The  coast  trending  west- 
ward was  in  sight  for  many  miles  beyond  Santa 
Barbara,  while  the  islands  of  Santa  Rosa,  San 
Miguel  and  Santa  Cruz  were  picturesque  in  the 
offing. 

At  times  the  mirage  lifted  the  Ana  Capa 
Islands  from  below  the  horizon,  and  as  we 
watched  those  interesting  scenes,  now  and  then  a 
sea-lion  would  raise  its  dark  head  from  the  ocean 
just  beyond  the  surf  and  gaze  steadily  at  us  with 
dark  eyes  of  almost  human  intelligence. 

Our  cooking  was  admirable,  thanks  to  a  Swed- 
ish servant;  our  appetites  needed  no  enticing 
dainties,  flowers  of  many  hues  were  on  the  table, 
while  the  sparkling  stream  was  our  finger  bowl. 
After  our  meals  we  rambled  along  the  sea  under 
the  picturesque  cliffs  and  failed  to  count  the 
hours  until  reminded  of  time's  passage  by  hunger. 

Shells,  sea-weeds,  and  beautiful  zoophytes  in 
sprays  lie  ferns,  were^  drifted  to  our  feet__by  the 


^:i^^Wi«itSf<6*S*-  ,t»i-i4»K 


58 


airSY  DAYS. 


slow-beating   surf,  and    the   days   were  full   of 
interest.     Aroused  at  times  by  a  demi-tasse  do 
caf^  noir  from  idleness  and  semi-somnolence,  we 
drove  along  the  beach  for  miles ;  but  this  was  the 
extreme  limit  of  exertion.    After  the  sunset-g  ow 
Venus,  the  evening-star,  cast  a  brilliant  ray  along 
the  sea;  while  a  distant  revolving  light  winked 
at  the  celestial  goddess  in  the  most  impertinent 
manner,  until  she  hid  herself  in  the  waves  froiu 

which  she  sprang.  ,    ,  .     -^        -^^  if 

We  breathed  climate,  basked  m  it,  praised  it, 
and  sorrowed  for  all  who  were  in  the  slush  of 
March  as  the  month  is  conducted  on  the  Eastern 
coast ;  but  one  night  our  climatic  enthusiasm  was 
checked  most    rudely   for   a  short    time-  --We 
came  in  about  sunset  from  driving  "»der  the 
cliffs,  and  the  moment  we  emerged  from  their 
shelter  we  were  caught  by  a  gale ;  it  was  a    dry 
norther,"  that  under  a  brUliant  blue  sky  raged 
and  roared  like  bedlam  on  a  spree.     Our  tents 
were  flying  wild,  fire  was  belching  from  the  stove, 
the  covers  and  pipe  were  blown  off,  and  our  cook 
was  spread  out  like  a  star-fish,  holding  a  hot  pot 
in  one  hand,  the  stove  with  another,  his  feet 
seeking  to  keep  the  tents  from  flying  away,  and 
his  uose  pinning  light  articles  to  the  ground} 


IP- 


^..; .,  «j,>,--*-*»^<'**»W-.^'»f 


GTP8T  DATS. 


59 


were  fwU  of 
demi-tasse  de 
jmnolence,  we 
it  this  was  the 
e  sunset-glow, 
iant  ray  along 
;  light  winked 
st  impertinent 
lie  waves  froiu 

I  it,  praised  it, 
i  the  slush  of 
m  the  Eastern 
enthusiasm  was 
rt    time. — We 
ing  under  the 
ored  from  their 
;  it  was  a  "dry 
blue  sky  raged 
ree.     Our  tents 
from  the  stove, 
I,  and  our  cook 
>lding  a  hot  pot 
lother,  his  feet 
lying  away,  and 
to  the  ground} 


whUe  sand  was  drifting  along  like  snow  over  and 
into  all  our  possessions,  and  the  gale  snatched 
and  buffeted  like  a  storm-centre  condensed  within 
an  acre.  Efforts  to  corral  things  were  in  vain. 
That  wind  could  pick  up  small  stones,  whUe  a 
sand-blast  from  a  neighboring  mound  filled  our 
ears,  eyes  and  mouths  with  flying  grit.  Fortu- 
nately a  glen  was  near,  where  an  hour's  hard  labor 
placed  us  under  a  high  bank  over  which  the  gale 
roared  all  night  without  reaching  us. 

The  dry  norther  is  devoid  of  the  discomforts 
of  ordinary  storms,  but  possesses  an  especial 
selection  of  its  own.  There  is  no  thunder  or 
lightning  or  need  of  any ;  it  speaks  for  itself,  and 
like  every  product  of  the  Pacific  slope  it  is  ample 
and  complete  of  its  kmd.  It  dries  the  skm, 
cracks  the  lips,  makes  the  hair  brittle,  sometimes 
it  withers  vegetation,  and  not  rarely  causes 
pneumonia  and  severe  neuralgia. 


»i«**-*«««s»«.^«*i«isi*»««»''-:«^  ■'"'' 


i; " 


1. 


i'li 


CHAPTER    IX. 

The  road  from  Rincon  to  Santa  Barbara,  six- 
teen miles,  was  swept  clean  by  the  gale  which 
was  still  blowing  against  us  as  we  drove  along, 
meeting  dust  and  pebbles  migrating  before  the 
wind  in  the  direction  of  Mexico.  Dusty  an4 
ruffled  in  raiment  and  temper,  a  retreat  under  an 
oak-tree  in  the  outskirts  of  the  town  was  grate- 
fully occupied,  and  the  remainder  of  the  day  was 
given  to  removing  a  strata  of  soil  from  our  per- 
sons. After  an  encounter  with  the  dust  of  a 
"dry  norther,"  a  tourist  might  be  platted  for 
city  lots, —  an  expedient  suggested  to  speculators. 

Our  protecting  oak  was  the  abode  at  night  of 
a  large  bevy  of  the  pretty  top-knot  quail.  They 
seemed  to  disregard  the  proximity  of  our  tents 


I J 


,1^i,K-^:!^rt^«ain-^fi*4matMf^''tX-'i^ 


■t^fffS*«"^vMiftti 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


ei 


Barbara,  six- 
!  gale  which 
drove  along, 
r  before  the 
Dusty  and 
eat  under  an 
n  was  grate- 
:  the  day  was 
rom  our  per- 
e  dust  of  a 
)  platted  for 
)  speculators. 
e  at  night  of 
quail.  They 
of  our  tents 


and  commenced  at  dawn  to  cluck  and  gossip  ii^ 
Volapiik  about  their  plans  for  the  day  and  the 
affairs  of  Santa  Barbara.  They  were  so  lonfid- 
ing  and  amusing  that  we  were  reluctant  t(    dis- 


turb them  by  rising  before  "  sun  up,"  an  instance 
of  self-denial  that  is  conceivable  under  the  cir- 
cumstances. 

Santa  Barbara  is  old  and  new.  The  old  is 
thoroughly  Spanish:  red  tiles  on  low  buildings 
sustained  by  bamboo  rafters,  picturesque  and 
intoeresting ;  the  new  represents  the  school  of  the 


i»:>ry^*»'i!.(-  .rl—A'««*?»*»''^''''--=^'* 


I''  li 


62 


OTPSY  DAYS. 


i,  .1, 


r  ( 


I' 


";' 


Bcroll^aw,  planer  and  ready  mixed  paints.  The 
city,  however,  has  probably  as  many  solid  attrac- 
tions to  win  those  who  can  choose  new  homes  as 
any  point  in  the  United  States. 

Points  Arguella  and  Conception  give  the  cold 
coast  currents  that  flow  from  the  north,  an  off- 
shore course,  leaving  the  bay  between  the  shelter 
of  the  Santa  Inez  Mountains  and  the  picturesque 
islands  a  summer  sea,  a  small  Sargasso,  where 
the  water  circles  until  it  becomes  warm  and  im- 
parts less  chUl   to   the  sea-breeze  than  is  felt 

farther  south.  .a     * 

The  railway  then  was  far  inland,  so  that  banta 
Barbara  long  enjoyed  immunity  from  the  hurry- 
ing crowds  and  confusion  that  follow  the  howl  of 
the  locomotive.  An  amphitheatre  of  beautiful 
mountains  surrounds  the  happy  vaUey  where  the 
village  lies  in  protected  isolation;  and  here, 
whatever  may  be  the  tastes  of  a  rambler,  be  he  a 
mountaineer,  botanist,  sportsman,  yachtman,  rehc- 
hunter,  or  given  to  swinging  in  a  hammock,  he 
can  indulge  all  of  his  fancies  without  going  far 
from  his  cottage  or  his  camp. 

The  climate  in  winter  will  compare  most  favor- 
ably with  that  of  the  Riviera,  with  much  less  « ice 
in  the  sunshine"  in  summer;  and  during  our 


:i  I 


1 1 


<   i 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


63 


aints.  The 
solid  attrac- 
w  homes  as 

;ive  the  cold 
orth,  an  off- 
a  the  shelter 
!  picturesque 
TassO)  ■where 
irm  and  im- 
than  is  felt 

[)  that  Santa 
oa  the  hurry- 
T  the  howl  of 
of  beautiful 
ley  where  the 
;  and  here, 
ibler,  be  he  a 
chtman,  relio- 
hammock)  he 
»ut  going  far 

re  most  favor* 
ttuch  less  "  ice 
1  during  our 


stay  we  knew  little  but  blue  sky,  mild  air,  with  a 
gentle  surf  breaking  on  the  sands.  There  was  no 
suggestion  of  storm,  cold  or  uncertain  weather, 
so  that  all  plans  for  excursions  were  made  with- 
out the  weather-permitting  clause  that  casts  a 
shadow  of  doubt  over  the  best-laid  schemes  of 
mice  and  men  in  the  old  States.  There  had  been 
very  heavy  rains  in  January  and  February,  that 
secured  to  the  soil  a  supply  of  moisture  for 
abundant  crops ;  but  later  in  the  season  the  high 
sun  would  fall  heavily  on  fields  bare  of  verdure. 
In  the  spring  all  vegetation  revels  in  sunlight 
that  for  two  or  three  months  is  not  too  strong  for 
the  water  within  reach  of  deep  roots,  and  the 
burst  of  leaf  and  bloom  is  wonderful. 

The  oft-used  term,  *'  a  carpet  of  flowers,"  is  not 
strained  in  March  and  April ;  they  sprmg  in  such 
masses  from  the  soil  that  they  give  color  to  the 
landscape  like  sunset  clouds  laid  upon  the  hill- 
sides. We  gathered  them  until  our  arms  were 
weary  with  constant  fresh  delight  in  new  and 
beautiful  varieties,  and  often  our  wreath  of  wild- 
bloom  was  added  to  by  gifts  from  the  owners  of 
successful  gardens.  Very  kind  were  the  people  of 
Santa  Barbara  to  the  strangers  in  camp,  to  them 
unknown.    No  name  was  on  our  wagon  or  trapsj 


64 


QYrSY  DAYS. 


i\ 


'i1 

! 


I' 


'Ill 


111  ■ 


our  only  token  was  a  small  yacht  flag  that  waved 
over  our  tent;  but  they  were  not  inquisitive  be- 
yond finding  opportunity  for  generous  hospitality. 
One  morning  in  our  camp  as  the  little  table 
was  being  set  for  breakfast,  we  saw  a  large  sun- 
bonnet  moving  through  the  tall  grass  and  flowers, 
seemingly  invisibly  supported.     As  it  drew  near 
we  saw  under  it  a  charming  little  girl  toddhng 
along  timidly  with  a  basket  which  she  summoned 
courage  to  bring  to  us,  "  a  few  fresh  rolls  that 
Mamma  thought  we  might  enjoy,"  all  covered 
with   dainty   napkins   and  fresh   flowers.      One 
evening  a  tall  figure,  that  might  have   stepped 
from  the  pages  of   Cooper's  "  Leatherstockmg 
Tales,"  came  to  our   campfire  bearing  a  large 
frosted  cake  smothered  in  roses,— "  a  little  offer- 
ing from  his  wife  to  the  campers." 

He  was  a  most  interesting  old  man,  erect  and 
wiry,  with  small  evidence  in  his  step  that  he  had 
been  for  over  seventy  years  on  the  frontier,  from 
the  time  when  Western  New  York  was  border- 
land.  He  had  been  a  bold  invader  of  the  un- 
known West  before  the  Indians  had  dreamed  of 
yielding  to  the  White  Man,  and  his  wild-life  tales 
made  our  hours  about  the  camp-fire  very  inter- 
esting. 


II<BgeWa>^<M<«U««IIIHW»"«IM»«*' 


G  YI'S  Y  DA  VS 


Aft 


that  waved 
uisitive  be- 
hospitality. 

little  table 
I  large  sun- 
find  flowers, 
;  drew  near 
irl  toddling 
)  summoned 
h  rolls  that 

all  covered 
wers.  One 
ave  stepped 
therstocking 
ring  a  large 
a  little  offer- 
in,  erect  and 

that  he  had 
rontier,  from 

was  border- 
r  of  the  un- 
1  dreamed  of 
wild-life  tales 
re  very  inter- 


One  evening  a  little  group  of  now-made 
friends  gatherod  about  our  fire,  talking  of 
memories  of  the  old  Eastern  homos  and  Of  the 
expectfitions  of  the  new  Pacific  States :  among 
them  the  old  hunter,  who,  Indian-like,  coiled 
himself  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  fire  as  the  night 
air  grew  cool.  He  was  seemingly  lost  in  thought 
when  one  of  the  party  asked  us  of  our  Eastern 
home. 

In  reply  we  named  one  of  the  fair  villages 
of  the  lake  region  of  New  York,  feeling  that 
it  would  be  an  unknown  name,  so  far  away*; 
but  the  old  hunter  caught  the  name,  and  slowly 
arising  from  the  ashes  until  he  seemed  in  the 
dim  light  a  towering  form,  he  raised  his  hand 
and  brought  it  down  upon  his  thigh  with  a  re- 
port like  a  rifle,  and  exclaimed  with  emotion, 
"  Stranger,  I  was  horned  thar  !  "  Little  had 
he  known  of  his  old  home  for  over  half  a  cen- 
tury, and  the  camp-fire  was  oft  replenished  before 
he  left  it,  so  deeply  was  he  interested  in  reminis- 
cences. 

His  tales  of  men  and  things  were  like  tradi- 
tion to  the  writer,  who  heard  more  of  old  local 
and  family  history  from  this  old  pioneer  than 
any  living  person  could  tell ;  for  few  or  none 


:»''^ 


■m    it,,' 


i\r 


66 


arrsY  days. 


remained  from  the  time  when  the  old  man, 
then  a  hoy,  had  turned  his  back  upon  the 
hill-top  village  that  for  many  years  was  only  a 
slender  memory  of  civilization  mingling  in  his 
wild  life. 


jtii  til , 
iHi  i 

'  m 
11113 


old  man, 
upon  the 
aa  only  a 
ng  in  his 


CHAPTER  X. 

Our  route  out  of  Santa  Barbara  led  over  the 
Santa  Inez  range, —  a  picturesque  sky-line  of 
mountains  on  the  north.  During  our  stay  we 
had  added  to  our  cavalcade  two  saddle-horses: 
one  Billy  Gray  for  ladies'  use,  kind,  intelligent, 
and  ever  faithful ;  the  other  a  sturdy  gray  Gypsy, 
with  enough  mustang  blood  from  half-wild  ances- 
try to  make  his  physique  perfect  and  his  temper 
quite  the  reverse. 

Our  preliminary  trip  was  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  where  we  camped,  beside  the  road  under 
superb  oaks.  The  night's  rest  was  varied  by 
driving  a  troop  of  invading  colts  away  from  our 
picketed  animals,  where  they  seemed  determined 
to  become    entangled    in   the   tethering   ropes. 


68 


li  Yl'S  Y  DA  IW. 


ill 


*mI 


m 


W-' 


ThiB  led  to  an  oavly  arousiuK'  for  the  mountain 
trip.     Well  aware  that  it  would  be  a  hard  pull,  it 
was  arran^rod  that  the  rcliahle  saddle-horse  should 
carry  two  of  the  party  «>a  the  ride-and-tie  plan: 
Gypsy,  our  new  purchase,  was  to  aid  by  bearing 
a  pack ;  that  is,  we  made  that  plan  without  cou- 
sultinK   hiin.     His   saddle   was   of  the  Vaquero 
style,  high  pommel,  having  a  great  deal  of  sheer 
fore  and   aft,  with    many  rings  for  lariats    and 
saddle-bags.     The  eargo  was  miscellan-ous:  the 
bath-tub  in  collapsed  f..rm,  bags  of  loaded  shells 
and  cartridges,  a  lot  of  "  canned  goods,    and  a 
general  selection  of  what  the  cook  termed  "  hefty 
stuff."     As  pound  alter  pound  was  added,  and 
turn  after  turn  of  the  long  cinch  was  drawn  tight, 
the  mustang  stood  with  legs  stiffly  apart,  in  the 
attitude  of  a  saw-horse,  with  seemingly  no  more 

spirit. 

Finally  all  was  arranged:  the  result  -  a  great 
corded  mass  of  luggage,  leaving  only  the  ends  of 
the  horse  visible.  A  gentle  pull  at  the  end  of  a 
long  lariat,  accompanied  by  a  "  Come,  Gyp, 
started  him,  aroused  him,  developed  him,  as  pull- 
ing  a  lanyard  awakens  a  cannon,  and  he  responded. 
The  writer  held  the  rope,  and  in  an  instant  was 
flying  a  kite  or,  more  truly,  a  nebulous  formation, 


orrSY  DAYS. 


69 


mountain 
rd  pull,  it 
rsc  should 
-tie  plan: 
y  bearing 
hout  con- 
Vaquero 
1  of  sheer 
,riat8   and 
"ous:  the 
ded  shells 
Is,"  and  a 
ed  "  hefty 
dded,  and 
awn  tight, 
art,  in  the 
y  no  more 

—  a  great 
;,he  ends  of 
le  end  of  a 
me,  Gyp," 
im,  as  pull- 
responded, 
instant  was 
formation, 


for  Gypgy  was  "  bucking  "  !     Bucking  is  u  com- 
posite action.      It  has  movements  aptly  chosen 
from  those  of  birds,  lishes,  snakes,  fleas,  squirrels, 
kangaroos  and  bats,  with  figures  from  the  ger- 
man,  the  flying  trapeze,  and  points  from  Cath- 
arine-wheels and  chasers.     They  are  simultaneous 
in  execution,  and  no  instiintaneous  i)late  is  made 
that  would  define  any  one  distinct  outline  during 
action.     It  was  grape,  cannister  and  small  arms 
at   the   end   of   the    rope:  cords  were  bursting, 
hoofs  cracking'on  the  hard  ground  and  in  the  air ; 
bath-tubs,  cartridges   and  "  canned  goods  "  were 
radiating  with  centrifugal   force  from  a  storm- 
centre  of  great  intensity,  with  rapidly  increasing 
risk  of  a  general  explosion.     Madam's  horse,  for- 
tunately, surveyed  the  scene  calmly  ;  but  her  mind 
was  full  of  apprehension  that  the  display  might 
become  contagious  among  our  horses,  when  sud- 
denly Gypsy  came  down  rigidly  on  four  stiff  legs 
and  stood  like  a  bronze  statue,  quiet,  complacent, 
triumphant.     Either  the  horse  or  the  saddle  had 
turned  over   during  the  action ;  it  was  directly 
underneath   the  beast,  while  remnants  of  cords 
with  frayed  ends  alone  attested  the  load  that  had 
been  so  carefully  packed.     There  was  a  sugges- 
tion in  the  surrounding  debris  that  "  Gyp  "  would 


70 


nrrsY  DAYff. 


■'■  ■!' 


not   asHumo   the  'uiml.lo  role  of  a   pack-horw. 
The  pouit  was  conceaod,  and  the  unsmaBhed  re- 
mains  collected  on  the  wa^on.     "Gyp     repre- 
sented    fifty    dollars   in    sold;    how   much    he 
«  bucked  "  us  out  of,  we  refrain  from  estimating. 
It  seemed  as  if  his  cost  would  be  fully  realized  by 
the  satisfaction  of  leudin^  him  to  a  secluded  spot 
and  shooting  him  ;  but  as  wo  hesitated,  the  cook 
said  he  would  ride  him,  and  with  self-remember- 
injr  irenerosity  we  gave  Mm  the  first  chance. 

Increasing  attractions  mark  every  step  that 
carries  one  onward  and  upward  on  this  road,  one 
that  would  be  toilsome  did  not  widening  viewi 
constantly  open  of  land,  mountoin  range,  island, 
and  summer  sea,-  all  varied  with  rural  beauty, 
and  our  depressed  spirits  rose  again,  as  the  charm- 
ing impressions  obliterated  the  vexations  attend- 
ing the  start. 

We  were  about  half-way  up,  one  of  our  party 
in  advance  to  meet  the  heavy  coach  then  due  and 
secure  a  passing  place,  as  it  would  come  down  the 
mountain  like  an  avalanche,  when  another  mam- 
testation  of  equine  perversity  brought  us  to  a 

*01d  Jerry  balked,  not  with  the  indecision  of 
youth  or  the  impetuosity  of  sudden  suggestion, 


^tg^sammmiimimmmmmm 


UYPSY  DAYS. 


71 


pack-horse, 
unnshed  re- 
,yp"  repre- 
much    he 
estimating. 
'  realized  by 
deluded  spot 
ud,  the  cook 
If-remember- 
ihance. 
y   step  that 
lig  road,  one 
lening  viewi 
ange,  island, 
•uval  beauty, 
\B  the  chann- 
itions  attend- 

of  our  party 
then  due  and 
)me  down  the 
mother  mani- 
ight  us  to  a 

indecision  ol 
n  suggestion, 


but  in  a  quiet,  stolid  nmnner  that  was  evidence  of 
mature  purpose.  He  hud  been  dwoUing  upon  the 
idea  for  some  miles,  and  now  struck  work  with  a 
cooli't'sa  worthy  of  r.  "  walking  duli'gate,"  K.  of 
L.  Ho  chose  a  narrow  place  and  held  the  gap 
like  a  Roman,  utterly  oblivious  of  suggettiong 
that,  commencing  piano,  rapidly  rose  in  c^-esceudo 
to  forte.  He  was  reminded  by  the  whip  of  the 
need  of  progress,  while  being  addressed  in  lan- 
guage full  of  the  "  big,  big  D's  "  of  the  vernacu- 
lar, and  the  abundant  "  r-r-r  's  "  that  distinguish 
the  vehemence  of  the  Spanish  aids  to  comprehen- 
sion. We  had  heard  that  a  mouthful  of  earth 
would  divert  a  horse's  mind  from  obstinate  intent : 
so,  regardless  of  future  values,  we  put  a  corner  lot 
or  two  in  his  mouth  ;  but  he  would  have  taken  a 
suburb  without  hesitation,  no  tender-foot  tricks 
would  move  him,  and  the  big  stage  was  due  at 
the  narrow  pass.  It  was  humiliating  to  have  so 
soon  a  second  defeat,  but  then  there  was  no 
choice ;  the  horses  were  unharnessed,  and  the 
wagon  run  back  to  a  plateau  just  as  a  coach  full 
of  pleasure-seekers  came  swinging  along  on  a 
gallop,  with  brakes  set  and  traces  loose. 

But  it  was  not  half  bad  after  all !     Lunch  was 
set  on  a  rocky  ledge,  a  bottle  of  the  red  wine  of 


!r 


72 


'tYFSY  DAYS. 


the  new  vineyards  cheered  us,  myriad  flowers  of 
famUiar  and  novel  form  and  hue  were  aU  about, 
while  the  golden  sea  and  f  orest-clad  valley  made  a 
return  to  Santa  Barbara  no  sacrifice.  We  were 
vagabonds,  with  no  aim  beyond  open-air  life  day 
and  night ;  in  such^  air,  amid  such  surroundings, 
delays  were  added  enjoyment. 


ii,  • 

•i  Hi ' 


il 


I 

iti' 


^St^!!M^iii0 


I  flowers  of 
re  all  about, 
alley  made  a 
.  We  were 
-air  life  day 
irroundings, 


CHAPTER   XI. 

Our  driver,  Ferguson,  a  most  skilful  horseman 
and  excellent  man,  was  called  in  council  after 
lunch,  and  the  conclusion  was  reached  to  return 
to  the  Cathedral  Oaks,  a  lovely  spot,  and  there, 
with  feed  and  water  at  hand  for  our  horses, 
arrange  our  plans. 

Our  camp  there  was  a  most  attractive  one, 
under  the  Gothic  arches  of  grand  trees,  with  a 
running  brook  at  our  feet.  A  very  beautiful 
pointer  had  joined  ouv  cavalcade,  not  even  the 
threatening  of  the  long  whip  would  drive  him 
away,  and  at  night  he  came  and  curled  up  at  the 
tent  opening,  a  most  faithful  guardian.  We  ad- 
vertised him,  but  no  owner  responded. 

A  second  council  held  before  our  camp-fire  led 


74 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


to  our  buying  a  very  fine  horse  that  Ferguson 
knew  of ,  and  a  lead  harness. 

With  some  stout  boughs  and  copper  wire,  we 
fashioned  a  set   of  lead  bars  while  awaiting  a 
.agon-maker's  better  work,  and  ^ypsy  ^^d  the 
beautiful  new  horse  were  gently  trained  to  har- 
ness,-  Gyp  proving  very  willing  and  tractable  so 
W  as  not'  s'ub3ectcd  to  the  indignity  of  a  pack. 
The  result  was  that  after  a  few  days  we  emerged 
from  the  Cathedral  Oaks  with  a  very  efacient  and 
not  bad-looking  four-in-hand,  that  promised  and 
performed  good  service. 

Again  we  breasted  the  mountain  road,  with  our 
horses  rested,  well-fed  and  in  great  spirits,  and 
all  went  on  smoothly  until  the  spot  was  reached 
where  we  halted  before.     Here  Jerry  planted 
himself  again  with  a  confidence  founded  on  pa^t 
success,  but  his  glory   was  evanescent   indeed^ 
Ferguson  had  brought  his  old  six-m-hand  wh^ 
with  a  stock  as  true  in  spring  as  a  fly-rod  a  lash 
of  the  most  scientific  taper,  and  a  silken  end 
made  hard  with  wax.     Gracefully  it  was  swung 
aloft,  writing  mystic  forms  la  the  air ;  with  a 
whis  ling  of  serious  import  the  lash  came  swoop- 
Tng  like^'an  eagle,  not  on  the  horse  s  back  where 
whipping  was  an    old-time    sensation    he    liad 


GTFST  DATS. 


76 


;  Ferguson 

er  wire,  "we 
awaiting  a 
sy  and  the 
aed  to  har- 
tractable  so 
f  of  a  pack, 
we  emerged 
afficient  and 
romised  and 

,ad,  with  our 
spirits,  and 
was  reached 
)rry  planted 
ided  on  past 
cent   indeed, 
n-hand  whip 
[y-rod,  a  lash 
a  silken  end 
it  was  swung 
I  air ;  with  a 
I  came  swoop- 
s  back,  where 
tion    he    had 


aohooled  himself  to  meet,  but  with  a  flash  like 
lightning  it  came  up  under  him,  lifting  him  like  a 
shock  of  electricity  high  into  the  air,  to  return  to 
the  earth  an  astonished,  reformed,  humiliated 
horse.  Later,  on  the  Sierra,  he  would  pull  his 
shoes  off  and  stay  in  the  collar  until  his  neck 
was  worn;  so  it  was  evident  that  he  regarded 
balking  as  a  lost  art,  ever  after  this  well-accented 
experience. 

No  rambler  can  leave  Santa  Barbara,  looking 
back  amid  the  rocky  turrets  that  are  so  pictur- 
esque on  the  crest  of  the  Santa  Inez  range,  with- 
out regret  at  leaving  a  scene  full  of  beautiful  and 
impressive  features  that  never  show  so  charmingly 
as  from  the  last  turn  of  the  road  before  a  descent 
is  made  on  the  land  side  of  the  coast  range  and 
the  ocean  is  lost  to  view ;  but  new  attractions  of 
novel  beauty  were  at  hand  to  divert  our  mind 
from  thoughts  that  were  a  bit  depressing.  The 
sea  side  of  the  coast  range  has  little  verdure : 
cool  winds,  often  laden  with  salt  fog,  seriously 
check  vegetation  ;  but  the  east  slopes  gladden  the 
eye  with  a  wealth  of  foliage  that  is  full  of  novel 
effects  to  ramblers  from  the  old  States.  In  March 
and  April,  all  is  in  perfection  :  the  dark  green  of 
the  chaparral,  the  polished  leaves  of  the  myrtle, 


76 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


and  other  trees  having  a  burnished  foliage, 
catching  the  light  like  silver,  are  mingled  with  the 
tender  tints  of  new  leaflets  that  add  mist-like 
delicacy  to  the  woodlands. 

We  removed  the  harnesses  from  our  leaders, 
replacing  them  with  saddles,  which  enabled  us  to 
ride  on  in  advance  to  gather  the  flowers  that  were 
in  myriads  about  us,  to  linger  at  attractive  points 
and  escape  the  monotonous  motion  of  the  wagon. 

Not  far  from  the  summit  on  the  route  to  the 
north,  a  grand  spring  bursts  from  the  mountain- 
side in  a  ravine,  and  here  we  halted  for  a  noon- 
day lunch.  A  party  of  charming  Eastern  people 
were  picnicing  in  the  romantic  spot,  who  extended 
a  hospitable  stirrup-cup  as  we  mounted  to  go  on. 
Far  below,  a  thread  among  the  trees,  our  road 
curved  and  wound  its  way  to  the  plains,  which  we 
reached  in  time  to  select  a  camping-spot  for  a  two- 
days'  halt,  the  morrow  being  Easter  Sunday,  a 
day  we  were  glad  to  use  for  rest. 

We  found  an  ideal  retreat  where  the  chaparral 
of  the  mountain-side  terminated  in  a  wide  expanse 
of  plain ;  behind  our  tents  a  mountain  brook  went 
cheerily  over  the  stones,  and  some  venerable  oaks 
gave  widespread  shade  without  shutting  in  the 
air  as  do  ordinary  forest-trees.     The  brook  yielded 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


77 


I    foliage, 

d  with  the 

mist-like 

ir  leaders, 
bled  us  to 
I  that  were 
tive  points 
he  wagon. 
»ute  to  the 
mountain- 
or  a  noon- 
ern  people 
0  extended 

to  go  on. 
,  our  road 
,  which  we 

for  a  two- 
Sunday,  a 

!  chaparral 
de  expanse 
brook  went 
jrable  oaks 
ing  in  the 
)ok  yielded 


a  few  small  but  delicate  trout,  "  Dolly  Vardens," 
a  gaudy  variety  peculiar  to  the  west  coast,  espe- 
cially distinguished  by  a  band  of  pink  extending 
longitudinally  from  the  gills  to  the  tail,  equal  in 
width  to  about  a  third  of  that  of  the  fish.  Here 
we  felt  no  sea-breeze ;  the  evenings  were  warm, 
tempti  ;g  us  to  sit  until  late  about  our  camp-fire, 
listet/ng  to  Ferguson's  tales  oi  stage-driving  on 
the  o'.erland  when  attacks  by  Indians  were  fre- 
quent experiences.  He  had  not  long  before 
driven  the  stage  over  the  road  we  were  on,  and 
on  one  trip  saw  three  "  grizzlies  "  passing  where 
we  were  in  camp, —  deferentially  the  right  of  way 
was  conceded  to  them.  The  dense,  impenetrable 
chaparral  affords  such  extensive  retreats  for  bear, 
panther,  and  other  more  or  less  dangerous  beasts, 
that  they  will  long  find  refuge  in  the  coast 
range.  We  felt  safer  with  a  double  gun  at 
hand  when  following  the  stream  back  into  the 
dark  ravines,  and  at  night  we  always  had  two 
guns  heavily  loaded  under  the  edge  of  our  blan- 
ket ;  for  the  road  agents  at  that  time  were  bold 
thieves  if  tempted,  but  we  were  not  deemed 
prey  worthy  of  their  attention. 

Camp-life  is  not  necessarily  one  of  hardship  or 
self-denial.     Half  the  care  and  science  needed  to 


'^^H%.,'<,^;,;g^i]^WIb^«%^t^KSd»$«^i«M««::«<>«««i^^ 


T8 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


make  an  ordinary  home  agreeable  will  render 
camping  luxurious,  safe  and  perfectly  comforta- 
ble  under  such  favoring  skies  as  we  enjoyed  in 
California,  and  perhaps  more  details  of  our  camp 
arrangements  may  be  of  interest  to  some  readers. 
As  to  risk,  it  is  very  little.     A  vigor  comes  from 
exercise,   fresh  air    and   constant  interest  that 
wards  awav  illness.     More  colds  and  lame  throats 
owe  their 'inception  to  the  bad  air  of  houses,  to 
defective  sewerage,  dust  from  carpets,  and  the 
contagion  of  a  coughing,  sneezing  neighborhood, 
than  to  fresh-air  exposure;  and  as  to  the  small 
dangers  of  life,  a  camp  is  exempt  from  more  ot 
them  than  any  house  contrived  by  man.     One 
cannot  fall  down  stairs,  pinch  fingers  in  a  door, 
have  a  head  broken  by  the  failure  of  a  picture 
cord,  fall  over  a  coal-scuttle,  be  caught  in  an  ele- 
vator,  killed  by  an  electric  wire,  or  run  over  by  a 

herdic  in  camp. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  post  notices  of  Uon  t 
blow  out  the  gas,"  "  Don't  stand  on  the  platf  orm,^^ 
«  Don't  walk  under  a  new  building,"  "  Danger,^^ 
«  Don't  go  to  crowded  theatres  or  towering  flats, 
—  in  camp ;  and  after  a  few  days  under  canvas,  the 
tent  becomes  a  home  with  all  home  attributes,  even 
if  to-day  by  the  sea,  to-morrow  by  a  mountain  tor- 


■t 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


7« 


J  will  render 
itly  comforta- 
ve  enjoyed  in 
}  of  our  camp 

some  readers. 
>r  comes  from 

interest  that 
d  lame  throats 
•  of  houses,  to 
rpets,  and  the 
neighborhood, 
8  to  the  small 

from  more  of 
by  man.  One 
gers  in  a  door, 
:e  of  a  picture 
usfht  in  an  ele- 
:  run  over  by  a 

ices  of  "Don't 
n  the  platform," 
g,"  "Danger," 
towering  flats," 
nder  canvas,  the 
!  attributes,  even 
a  mountain  tor- 


rent, and  the  next  day  under  stately  sighing  pines 
in  some  remote  ravine.  Our  arrangements  were 
very  simple.  In  early  life  the  writer  went  often 
into  the  deep  forests,  carrying  "  everything  need- 
ful," provisions  for  emergencies,  and  guns,  rods 
and  traps  for  all  the  forms  of  game  known  to  nat- 
ural history.  Getting  ready  for  these  trips  was 
simply  delightful,  as  one  thing  after  another  was 
laid  in  due  form  in  the  packing  cases. 

Such  ingenious  things  as  were  offered  for  all 
purposes  in  sportsmen's  fascinating  shops  as 
indispensable,  from  pepper-pots  of  horn  to  tele- 
scopic rifles  and  interchangeable  rods;  bright 
with  metal,  new  with  well-oiled  joints,  and  tempt- 
ing to  sight  and  touch,  they  were  associated 
months  in  advance  with  the  furry  monsters  they 
were  to  bring  down,  with  the  dashing  trout  they 
were  soon  to  allure,  and  with  the  sumptuous  re- 
pasts they  would  insure  for  the  well-known  (and 
sometimes  alluded  to)  hunters'  appetites. 

A  room  was  always  given  up  to  packing  these 
lovely  devices,  where  they  formed  a  medley  of  the 
most  picturesque  details ;  but  when  they  were  once 
in  the  deep  woodland,  where  one  horse  and  one 
steer  before  a  "  go  devil "  was  the  sole  means  of 
transportation  over  boulders,  roots,  fallen  trees 


««ti»««i«i*»i*«AttiSSfasw*--' ' 


80  GYPSY  DAYS. 

and  slipping  snow-banks,  they  were  just  a  little  diffi- 
cult to  arrange,  even  laying  aside  all  artistic  and 
ffisthetic  motives ;  and  if  there  lives  a  bronzed  old 
woodsman  who  has  not  decorated  many  miles  of 
trail  with  things  that  would  not  work  when  wet, 
were  immovable  if  strained,  and  useless  in  an 
emergency  where  one  cannot  recall  the  proper 
manipulation  of  some  unfailing  inconvenience,— 
we  have  not  met  him. 

First  of  all,  in  turning  from  the  ways  called 
civilized,  find  out  what  is  unnecessary,  and 
a  long  atep  is  taken  in  becoming  a  gypsy. 


H. 


little  diffi- 
tistic  and 
'onzed  old 
y  miles  of 
when  wet, 
less  in  an 
he  proper 
enience, — 

ays  called 
tsaiy,  and 

sy. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Our  outfit  was  organized  for  service,  and  few 
changes  were  made  after  the  trial  trip  to  Santa 
Monica.  Our  wagon  was  perfectly  adapted  to 
the  work  and  stood  seven  hundred  miles  of  varied 
service  with  little  or  no  repairs.  The  high  driv- 
er's seat  insured  command  over  four  horses  and 
gave  admirable  space  for  carrying  baggage.  All 
trunks  and  boxes  were  fitted  to  spaces,  so  that 
there,  was  no  "  shucking  about,"  and  when  the 
spaces  were  filled  there  was  little  chance  of  any- 
thing being  left  behind.  The  table-top  was  hung 
behind  the  canvas  that  covered  the  rear  seat,  at  an 
angle,  and  here  was  stored  the  bedding,  light  but 
bulky. 

In  many  forest-camps  we  always  found  beds 


82 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


I! 


of  «  hemlock  feathers  "  better  than  any  art  could 
offer.     Elastic,  clean,  free  from  creepmg  things, 
fragrant  and  wholesome,  it  has  no  equal  for  in- 
ducing sweet  sleep;  but  the  plains  of  California 
offered  no  provision   of  the  kind,  although  the 
balsams  of  the  Sierra  were  very  good  when  obtain- 
able.   Hence  it  was  necessary  to  carry  mattresses. 
As  soon  as  our  three  tents  were  up,  india-rubber 
sheets  were  spread  in  all  but  the  dressing-room 
tent,  and  even  when  the  ground  was  seemmgly 
as  dry  as  months  of  sunshine  could  render  it, 
these  sheets  were  always  wet  on  the  under  side 
when  taken  up.     On  these  sheets  the  mattresses 
were  laid,  and   soft  rugs  above   them.     A  tew 
cushions  with  gay   covers,  mission  blankets  of 
varied  hues,  and  wall  pockets,  made  the  open  tent 
rich  in  color  and  attractive. 

Camp-chairs  were  set  under  the  trees  about  the 

camp,  where  our  table  was  convenient  between 

meals  for  maps,  books  and  correspondence.     Uur 

horses  were  tethered  with  long  ropes  to  iron  pins, 

to  enioy  the  nutritious  clovers  and  grasses,  which, 

with  rations  of  barley,  kept  them  in  fine  working 

condition.     In  the  mornings  they  eyed  keenly  the 

tents,  and  when   signs   of  life  were   seen,  they 

neighed  and  capered  like  dogs  with    dehght. 


H. 


V 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


83 


art  could 
jr  things, 
lal  for  in- 
California 
lough  the 
en  obtain- 
nattresses. 
dia-rubber 
ising-room 
seemingly 
render  it, 
under  side 
mattresses 
tt.     A  few 
(lankets  of 
B  open  tent 

B  about  the 
nt  between 
ence.     Our 

0  iron  pins, 
sses,  which, 
me  working 

1  keenly  the 
seen,  they 

th    delight. 


They  differed  widely  in  adapting  themselves  to 
being  tethered.  Some  of  them,  if  the  ropes 
caught  under  root8  or  logs  would  stand  patiently 
awaiting  assistance;  but  Tom  would  feed  in  a 
forest  around  trees  and  stumps  until  his  long  rope 
seemed  a  snarl  of  hopeless  intricacy,  but  he  inva- 
riably worked  backward  and  diHcntangled  himself 
without  cutting  any  Gordion  knots.  The  presence 
of  our  faithful  animals  was  always  a  source  of 
interest  and  prevented  loneliness,  giving  some- 
thing of  a  homestead  air  to  the  wild  situations 
we  were  often  in. 

A  brilliant  lamp  in  our  tent  made  reading  a 
pleasure  in  the  evenings ;  and  another  night-light 
hung  by  the  opening,  where  the  faithful  pointer 
nightly  assumed  a  watchman's  post  as  if  detailed 
for  the  service.  Our  men  were  excellent,  secur- 
ing us  every  safety  and  attention,  while  the  cook- 
ing outfit  now  tested  for  many  days  proved  more 
than  capable  of  equalling  the  best  cuisine  of  the 
few  hotels  we  dined  at.  Supplies  at  times  gave 
out ;  but  shipments  from  San  Francisco  met  us  at 
stated  points,  rod  and  gun  brought  trout  and 
quail  to  the  larder,  and  when  all  resources  failed, 
a  payment  of  a  small  sum  would  secure  the  right 
to  shoot  domestic  fowls  that  could  not  be  caught 


•aMKSg(^gBM&j^^5ai^Si9i^^SSj#»SMe».i««W^*«***»ssi'SBi«i«^««*s^^ 


.'-.  ^*tv;JiVis*^^- 


84 


UyPSY  DAYS. 


in  any  other  way,  as  they  were  quite  as  wild  as 
the  game  of  Enj,^li8h  presorves. 

Ranches  were  many  miles  apart,  U'i  usually 
one  was  j.assed  between  luncheon  and  night,  v> hen 
milk  could  be  procured.  The  Spanish  residents 
conduct  their  dairying  in  prim.tlve  ways.  To  get 
a  qujut  of  milk,  a  half-wil(?  row  would  be  lassoed 
and  led  to  a  post  where  a  few  turns  would  fasten 
the  rope ;  another  coil  would  then  be  cast  around 
her  hind  feet,  binding  them  together,  nfter  which 
the  quantity  needed  would  be  milked,  itad  the  cow 
turned  loose  to  be  milked  again  if  net  led,  or  not 
approaijli  d  for  day». 

Yet  \nth  all  this  se-uniug  lack  of  system,  good 
butter  was  the  rule  and  excellent  bread  ordina- 
rily obtainable.  When  the  latter  was  missing, 
oatmeal,  rice,  and  various  farinaceous  foods  were 
made  extremely  palatable  by  the  perfect  steam 
cooking  of  our  multifarious  utensil. 


"J 


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CHAPTER  XIII. 

OwwABD  by  easy  stages  over  sand-hills  at  Arroyo 
Grande,  by  the  interesting  Mission  of  Santa  Mar- 
gareta,  we  made  our  way  northward,  every  hour 
full  of  keen  interest  and  enjoyment,  galloping 
over  the  sod  that  was  a  carpet  of  blossoms,  loiter- 
ing under  the  great  oaks  whose  shade  gave 
moisture  to  a  lovely  blue  flower  (a  flower  limited 
to  the  ground  under  the  trees,  producing  the 
cunous  effect  of  blue  shadows),  and  camping  every 
evening  amid  new  scenes,  all  having  enough 
variety  to  fiU  the  twilight  with  pleasure. 

El  Paso  de  Robles  (the  Pass  of  the  Oaks)  is 
approached  from  the  south  by  a  road  equal  to  a 
park-drive,  through  a  vast  expanse  of  plain  where 
the  grass  is  fed  down  to  lawn-like  keeping  by 


86 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


sheep;  indeed  landscape  gardening  could  add 
little  to  this  beautiful  spot,  filled  as  it  was  with 
majestic  single  trees  that  only  centuries  could  pro- 
duce, with  groups  of  blooming  shrubs  scattered 
in  graceful  outlines,  and  views  of  mountain 
summits  over  all. 

We  could  gallop  far  and  wide  seeing  neither 
fence  nor  barrier,  where  every  hour's   rambling 
made  it  more  a  mystery  why  these  great  oaks, 
many  of  them  six  or  seven  feet  in  diameter,  should 
have  found  soil   favoring  their  superb  growth ; 
with  no  other  trees,  as  in  the  East,  crowding  to 
share  the  space  about  them.     Day  after  day  of 
azure  sky,  soft  air,  brilliant  twilight  and  assured 
immunity  from  coming  storms  made  life  a  holiday. 
We  rode  and  drove  for  hours,  returning  hungry 
to  our  camps,  to  eat  and  sleep  as  only  those  can 
who  hve   in    the    open  ab.      Health  —  ruddy, 
vigorous  health  — came  to  us  all;  our  hardened 
muscles  seemed  to  know  no  fatigue,  and  as  to 
nerves,  we  forgot  their  existence. 

A  half-day's  easy  drive  from  Paso  Robles 
Springs  brought  us  to  the  Mission  of  San  Miguel, 
a  large  church  with  other  buildings  surrounding 
a  quadrangle  with  one  entrance  only,  indicating, 
in  connection  with  old  walled-up  loop-holes,  that 


v.. 


arrsY  days. 


87 


)uld  add 
was  with 
ould  pro- 
scattered 
mountain 

g  neither 

rambling 

eat  oaks, 

er,  should 

growth  ; 
owding  to 
er  day  of 
id  assured 
a  holiday, 
ig  hungry 
those  can 
.  —  ruddy, 

hardened 
and  as  to 

ISO  Robles 
an  Miguel, 
irrounding 
indicating, 
-holes,  that 


the  arrangement  had  defensive  as  well  as  religious 
purposes  in  contemplation.  One  hundred  years 
ago  the  buildings  were  evidently  a  much  more 
imposing  group,  but  time  has  left  little  to  show 
their  original  extent  beside  the  outlines  of  old 
foundations. 

Birds  very  similar  to  our  Eastern  favorites  were 
quite  abundant  in  wooded  districts,  but  some 
slight  difference  in  color  or  unfamiliar  notes 
made  them  practically  strangers.  Quail  were  in 
frequent  flocks ;  so  numeroup,  indeed,  as  to  do 
mischief  in  vineyards.  Driving  rapidly  along  we 
often  shot  them  over  the  heads  of  our  leaders,  but 
no  second  barrel  could  be  used  without  endanger- 
ing Gypsy's  head,  as  he  invariably  reared  at  the 
report  of  the  gun,  although  he  made  no  effort  to 
run.  They  are  not  an  especially  tempting  bird  for 
the  table,  but  a  few  often  came  to  good  purpose, 
when  our  supplies  ran  low.  Often  no  market  was 
passed  for  several  days,  so  that  our  gun  and  rod 
were  our  only  resource  for  variety  on  our  table. 
Once  when  all  other  schemes  failed,  a  fat  lamb 
was  bought,  with  the  result  of  unlimited  feasting 
on  curries  and  chops.  A  fat  cotton-tail  rabbit 
simmered  in  curry  in  the  large  part  of  the  cooker, 
with  rice  steamed,  potatoes  ditto,  brought  before 


.■sife^ifc^gyijis6iij«fej6,;s»»ij«i^j  fii*t's-M/M>,T 


^-J^^-^^;3V■" 


88 


arp^iY  DAYS. 


lis  ftftor  a  long  ride  or  drive  was  not  to  be  de- 
spised ;  but  the  long-eared  jack-rabbits  took  loo 
much  violent  exercise  to  be  tender,  and  we  ceased 
shooting  them.  Our  pointer  added  miles  to  his 
daily  course  by  chasing  them,  never  seeming  to 
become  discouraged  by  their  sailing  over  grain  or 
weeds  in  long  bounds  that  carried  them  out  of 
his  reach  in  a  moment. 

The  route  up  the  San  Antonio  was  through  a 
very  lonely  but  picturesque  country,  the  few 
ranches  being  occupied  by  the  original  Spanish 
Indian  half-breeds,  a  seemingly  harmless  popula- 
tion, but  many  stage  robberies  in  this  wild  region 
indicated  that  the  "  road  men  "  were  in  a  country 
where  they  found  protection  and  assistance  in 
their  raids  on  the  express  boxes.  We  were  sup- 
posed to  carry  no  money.  Our  men  were  paid 
at  the  banking-houses  of  the  larger  towns,  and 
they  usually  paid  our  bills  for  us  from  their  earn- 
ings. Once,  as  we  will  recount  later,  we  were 
actually  out  of  cash,  all  pockets  empty,  no  grain 
in  the  sacks  or  supplies  in  the  hampers,  no  known 
friends  to  call  upon. 

From  tlie  sources  of  the  San  Antonio,  quite 
high  on  the  east  side  of  the  coast  range,  we 
passed  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Salinas,  which 


(I  Yl'S  Y  DA  YS. 


89 


u  be  r\{i- 
took  loo 
vo  ceased 
Ics  to  his 
jming  to 
grain  or 
m  out  of 

irough  a 
the   few 

Spanish 
J  popula- 
Id  region 

country 
tance  in 
irere  sup- 
ere  paid 
ms,  and 
eir  earn- 
«ve  were 
no  grain 
D  known 

0,  quite 
nge,  we 
By  which 


runs  northward  to  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  where 
there  is  a  wide  break  in  the  coast  range  through 
which  the  sea-air  chilled  by  Arctic  currents  is 
drawn  to  fill  the  vacuum  caused  by  the  heated 
air  rising  over  the  sun-scorched  plain  of  the  San 
Joaquin  Valley.  As  this  cool  air  passes  over  the 
land,  its  temperature  is  rapidly  raised  :  consequent- 
ly it  covets  moisture  and  derives  it  from  every 
possible  source.  It  hardens  the  skin,  which  is  at 
the  same  time  sun-burned  and  chilled,  the  hair  and 
nails  become  brittle,  and  there  are  many  discom- 
forts. Trees  grow  only  in  ravines  where  some 
moisture  remains,  and  they  do  not  hold  their  heads 
much  above  the  banks  that  protect  them.  Bird 
and  animal  life  is  not  abundant  on  the  plains,  and 
the  few  specimens  that  exist  adapt  themselves  to 
the  exigencies  of  their  habitat.  The  ground 
squirrel  is  common  and  a  pest.  He  resembles  the 
gray  squirrel  of  the  East,  with  a  less  superb  tail ; 
but  a  glorious  tail  to  balance  and  guide  him  in 
leaping  from  bough  to  bough  would  be  of  no 
value,  for  he  has  not  the  trees  to  sport  upon  ;  he 
burrows  in  the  ground  where  possible  moisture  is 
found ;  if  not,  he  is  at  least  out  of  the  wind. 
This  loss  of  the  plume-like  tail  of  the  squirrel 
of  the  forest  is  an  instance  of  the  weakening  of 


J>0 


tiYl'SY  DAYS. 


an  unused  niombev.     Our  experience  would  sug- 
gest that  a  squirrel  with  a  full  bushy  tad,  such  a 
plume  as  curls  over  the  backs  of  our  home  bunnies, 
would  possibly  be  blown  away  by  the  gale  as  is 
the  flying  spider  by  his  parachute  web.     A  small 
mud-tinted  bird  runs  in  the  ruts  of  the  road  when 
they  are  deep  enough  for  shelter,  flying  only  when 
forced  to.    He  has  no  visible  feathered  companion  ; 
for  the  only  other  bird  observed  is  the  burrowing 
owl,  who  does  not  suggest  social  character  as  a 
prominent  trait  as  he  sits  on  the  mound  by  bis 
hole  in  the  ground,  turning  his  head  around  so 
fast  and  far  that  it  is  a  source  of  wonder  that  he 
does  not  wring  his  own  neck.     A  most  amusing 
habit  has  this  especial  member  of  the  family  ot 
wisdom:  it  is  a  most  pronounced  and  constantly 
repeated  bow  or,  more  correctly,  courtesy.     It  is 
not  the  bow  of  welcome  or  the  nod  of  hospitality; 
it  is  curt,  rapid  and  definite,  conveying  plainly 
the    hint:     "Good-bye!      Good-bye !!- Don t 
wait  out  in  the  wind.     Good-bye !- Good-bye ! 
—  Why  don't  you  go  on?  "     Sad  would  be  the 
lot  of  beast  or  bird  on  the  Salhias  plain,  that 
possessed  no  hole  in  the  ground  for  refuge. 


8Ug- 

icli  a 
kiiies, 

as  is 
small 
when 
when 
nion ; 
)wing 
r  as  a 
^y  his 
nd  so 
lat  he 
lusing 
lily  of 
tantly 

It  is 
itality; 
)lainly 
Don't 
d-bye ! 
be  the 
1,  that 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Fbebh  supplies  awaited  our  arrival  at  Soledad, 
where  we  halted  only  long  enough  to  select  our 
route  eastward. 

Two  were  offered,  neither  very  tempting :  one 
around  the  spur  of  the  San  Benito  range,  where 
we  would  face  a  gale  of  dust-laden  wind; 
the  other  back  on  the  east  side  of  the  Salinas 
River,  over  the  range  of  the  San  Benito.  We 
chose  the  latter  as  more  picturesque  and  sheltered. 
It  was  a  prudent  choice,  although  the  road  led 
along  the  Bitterwater,  a  little  rivulet  as  clear  as 
air,  but  so  full  of  alkali  that  our  horses  would  not 
approach  it.  At  midday  on  the  Bitterwater  our 
thermometer  nearly  reached  90';  in  the  evening  a 
cool  gale  blew  the  sand,  and  rendered  necessary 


.^«g^^agsagSi,^ssss8WSs,»aM.5.j«S4>i.wi«*-«^^ 


r't-J^^^-"*<«^y'>'"  ^---'^^^m 


iS^-^^V" 


92 


(}  YPS  y  DA  YS. 


many  extra  blows  on  the  tent-pc^s  to  drive  them 
deep  enouf^h  to  hohl  the  stay  ropes.  Down  the 
San  Benito,  with  thirty  fords  to  the  Pinoehe, 
was  difticult  driving.  Late  high-water  had  rolled 
bowlders  into  the  tew  passable  parts  of  the  river- 
bed, the  round  stones  made  footing  too  uncertain 
to  encourage  the  use  of  our  saddle-horses,  and 
only  Ferguson's  skill  and  unceasing  care  carried 
us  through  safely  without  breaking  a  buckle. 

Approaching  Ilollister  we  found  the  valuable 
lands  fenced  in,  leaving  no  wayside  corners  for 
gypsy  tents,  nor  rich  alfaleria  clover  for  the 
horses ;  so  we  accepted  the  hospitable  welc»>me  of 
a  farmer  and  camped  in  his  grounds,  where  seven 
bright  children  surrounded  us  with  friendly 
curiosity,  olfering  us  their  aid  in  little  ways. 

In  all  our  wanderings  we  met  with  this  constant 
kindness  :  fruits,  flowers  and  dainties  were  sent 
to  our  tent  by  those  who  knew  nothing  of  us,  and 
we  could  only  acknowledge  the  favors  by  small 
gifts,  a  supply  of  which  we  always  had  on  hand. 
Offerings  of  money  would  have  offended  the 
generous  people  who,  having  in  nearly  all  instances 
had  long  camp  experiences,  were  prompt  in  hos- 
pitality to  wayside  wanderers. 

We  rested  long  after  the  rough,  fatiguing  drive 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


03 


^e  them 
iwn  the 
*inoche, 
(1  rolled 
le  river- 
neertain 
jes,  and 
carried 
de. 

valuable 
iiers  for 
for  the 
[come  of 
re  seven 
friendly 

constant 
ere  sent 
f  us,  and 
by  small 
3n  hand, 
ied  the 
instances 
b  in  hos- 
ing drive 


of  the  San  Benito  and  Pinoche,  giving  the  day 
(Sunday)  to  much  needed  n-st ;  but  we  were  a 
little  disturbed  on  making  our  inventory  to  find 
ourselves  out  of  nearly  all  supplies  and  totally 
out  of  money,  (u>r  men  having  expended  theirs 
also.  We  knew  no  one  within  a  hundred  miles, 
while  our  needs  were  immediate  and  pressing : 
food  for  our  horses,  everything  for  ourselves,  and 
wages  for  our  faithful  attendants. 

There  was  nothing  for  it  but  "cheek."     The 
horses  were  given  an  extra  grooming,  the  harness 
a  long  omitted  polishing,  the  wagon  was  washed, 
while  we  put  on  our  best  flannels  and  as  many 
evidences   of   civilized  life   as   one   trunk   could 
afford.     The  empty  wagon  was  a  light  load  for 
our  four  best  horses  ;  they  snapped  it  around  the 
corners  of  Hollister  just  as  the  good  people  were 
going  to  church,  and  we  were  soon  in  the  business 
part  of  that  prosperous  place.     Inquiries  for  a 
banker  secured  the  information   that   the  post- 
master was  the  person  to  see.     He  was  fortunately 
in  his  office,  where  a  mass  of  mail  awaited  us ;  and 
with  a  confidence  we  could  not  have  expected,  he 
said  he  would  take  our  checks ;  in  fact,  he  wanted 
checks   on  the  Bank   of  California  for  various 
amounts,  all  of  which  we  drew,  and  soon  were  in 


-^meg.-. 


:^»JfeS<fe«**s*f's*fc<i'«:«-*  < 


riaSiff***---' 


X^70'^!-irai^!-^,'»'---^''-^:-~ 


Sit.w  i    -S;ri':.'^.':-W^  ■ 


94 


UYPSY  DAYS. 


funds  ngain.  Some  accommodating  dealers  admitted 
us  to  their  shops,  which  were  of  course  closed  for 
the  day,  wlierc  wv  found  all  needed  supplies  and 
delicacies,  laden  with  which  wo  drove  triumph- 
antly back  to  cook  a  royal  lunch,  blessing  the 
hospitable  men  of  lloUister. 

Later  we  mounted  our  saddle-horses,  and,  fol- 
lowed by  our  wagon,  rode  by  cultivated  fields  a 
few  miles  to  the  famous  old  Pachaco  ranch,  a 
pleasant  camping-place. 

Resuming  our  march  the  next  morning,  it  led 
by  a  well-made  road  that  followed  a  bright  stream 
to  its  source  among  the  moss-covered  rocks. 
Arriving  at  the  summit,  we  were  delighted  to  see 
a  vast  expanse  open  to  our  view,  the  rich  San 
Joaquin  Valley  with  miles  of  golden  wheat  ripen- 
ing in  the  sun,  lying  map-like  below  us ;  over  and 
beyond  rose  the  ragged  sky-line  of  the  Sierra, 
white  against  the  deep  blue  sky  and  wonderfully 
beautiful.  With  map,  glass  and  compass  we 
sought  to  place  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  its  sur- 
rounding peaks  and  domes,  our  far-away  objective 
point ;  but  amid  a  myriad  of  bristling  peaks,  no 
one  could  be  identified  at  the  distance  we  were 
from  them,  —  at  least  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles. 


liYPSY  DAYS. 


06 


admitted 
closed  for 
plies  and 
triumph- 
»ing  the 

and,  fol- 
1  fields  a 
ranch,  a 

ig,  it  led 
\i  stream 
i  rocks. 
)d  to  see 
rich  San 
lat  ripen- 
over  and 
B  Sierra, 
iderfuUy 
ipass  we 
1  its  sur- 
jbjective 
teaks,  no 
we  were 
i  twenty 


In  many  featuroH,  half  barren,  linlf  luxuriant, 
this  view  reniiiiilH  one  of  the  outlook  from  the 
towers  of  the  Alhainhrii,  where  beyond  the  dusty 
plains  of  Granada  the  snow-peaks  of  the  Old 
World  Sierra  surround  the  valley  where  the 
luxurious  Moor  and  fanatic  Spaniard  hated, 
fought  and  persecuted,  enriching  the  sun-burned 
soil  with  the  blood  of  men  fitted  for  better  work 
than  Crusade  or  Inquisition  cruelty. 

Even  in  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  then  lying 
before  us,  there  have  been  quite  too  frequent 
raids  of  half-wild  "  road  agents  "  and  Vacqueros, 
who  have  dashed  into  villages  on  their  mustang 
horses,  threatened  and  terrorizing  all  who  offered 
resistance  with  point-blank  shots  from  repeating 
rifles,  and  swooped  away  with  all  the  valuables 
they  could  carry  on  their  ample  saddles. 

Our  horses  had  abundant  time  to  stretch  their 
necks  and  rest  before  we  were  willing  to  leave  this 
commanding  point,  and  go  downward  on  a  wind- 
ing road  to  the  San  Louis  ranch,  where  a  small 
army  of  men  were  shearing  great  flocks  of  sheep. 

Eastward  from  the  San  Louis  ranch,  which  is 
on  the  edge  of  the  valley,  we  passed  through 
seemingly  endless  wheat.  The  winter  had  favored 
it  with  profuse  rains,  and  it  grew  in  superb 


»i^A^^^j^^jl^lg;gi^^v^^tr^*s^K;^*»^^sf*i^^ 


-  i-JafteW-^/--.  .^?W*tri^'7'<aiKT-*; 


96 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


abundance  to  the  wheel  tracks,  our  horses  nipping 
the  heads  as  we  drove  alon^. 

The  widely  isolated  houses  of  the  wheat  sec- 
tions were  not  attractive  or  home-like. 

No  tree  or  shrub  grows  abuiit  them :  there  is  no 
shade,  no  shelter ;  the  houses,  as  Starr  King  said, 
"  have  no  roots ;"  they  are  simply  set  on  posts, 
with  the  rubbish  of  the  place  cast  under  them. 
No  barns  of  any  extent  are  needed  for  housing 
crops,  valuable  machinery  is  left  anywhere,  and 
the  cereals  are  harvested  and  stacked  in  the  fields 
where  they  are  safe  from  storms. 

As  we  were  spinning  along  over  the  hard  roads 
through  the  wheat,  watching  races  between  our 
pointer  and  jack-rjibbits,  our  leaders  made  a 
quick  spring  and  carried  away  the  lead-bar ;  but 
Ferguson's  strong  pull  wheeled  them  instantly 
around,  and  we  found  ourselves  at  a  stand-stiU, 
with  four  horses  oddly  facing  each  other. 

Stripping  the  harnesses  from  the  leaders,  we 
put  saddles  on  them  and  rode  to  Dutch  Flats, 
where  we  went  into  port  for  repairs  that  detained 
us  some  hours. 


les  inppiiig 
wheat  sec- 


there  is  no 
King  said, 
t  on  posts, 
ider  them. 
)r  housing 
vhere,  and 
1  the  fields 

hard  roads 
etween  our 
3  made  a 
td-bar ;  but 
I  instantly 
stand-stiU, 
Dr. 

waders,  we 
utch  Flats, 
it  detained 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A  KINDLY  spirit  of  accommodation  alone  in- 
duced the  wagon-makers  of  Dutch  Mats  to  make 
us  a  new  set  of  lead-bars,  for  they  were  driven 
with  work.  Surrounding  the  shops  were  the  huge 
agricultural  implements  of  the  valley,  —  all  novel 
to  the  Eastern  eye,  but  very  efficient  on  the  bound- 
less level  plains  we  were  crossing.  The  crop  to 
be  harvested  was  a  very  fine  one,  and  every  avail- 
able machine  was  being  made  ready. 

A  Californian  is  ready  to  do  anything  but 
walk.  It  may  be  a  little  overstating  it  to  say 
that,  if  a  Californian  desire  to  go  half  a  mile  to 
a  village,  he  will  go  a  mile  to  catch  a  horse  to 
ride  on;  but  it  is  not  wide  of  the  mark  for  a 
statement  bearing  upon  a  matter  connected  with 


'-^■^.  .e,iiJi*i  o.-.3-fe-tt.w--.'  i  ■ 


98 


GYPSTDAYS. 


the  booming  Pacific  slope,  where  one  cannot  con- 
vey an  adequate  idea  of  the  truth  without  ex- 
panding a  good  deal. 

All  the  ploughs,  harrows,  reapers  and  imple- 
ments of  the  wheat-fields  are  designed  to  enable 
one  man  to  use  the  power  of  a  number  of  horses : 
wages  are  high,  horses  abundant  and  cheap. 

Four  or  six  horses  draw  a  gang  of  ploughs,  with 
a  driver  occupying  a  spring  seat;  four  horses 
drive  a  header  that  cuts  the  golden  wheat  from 
the  straw  while  standing,  while  especially  made 
wagons  travel  alongside  to  receive  it  and  convey 
the  heavy  grain  heads  to  stacks  where  they  await, 
safe  from  rains,  the  threshing  engines. 

A  rainy  winter  means  a  good  crop;  a  good 
crop  is  the  source  of  great  prosperity,  while  a  poor 
one  means  borrowing  money  at  one  per  cent,  per 
month  until  good  times  come  again.  Little  is 
raised  beside  grain  :  so  the  farmer  is  largely  a  pur- 
chaser of  nearly  all  his  family  consumes,  and  un- 
less money  is  realized  from  grain  sales,  there  is 
not  much  spare  cash  available. 

A  few  hours'  residence  in  Dutch  Flats  furnished 
us  a  great  deal  of  interesting  information  regard- 
ing agricultural  processes  and  prospects,  as  well 
as  a  set  of  guaranteed  lead-bars,  and  we  spun  on 


li- 
lt 


arrsY  days. 


99 


t  con- 
it  ex- 

imple- 
enable 
lorses : 
I. 

3,  with 
horses 
t  from 
7  made 
convey 
await, 

I  good 
J  a  poor 
jnt.  per 
jittle  is 
y  apur- 
and  un- 
there  is 

irnished 
regard- 
as  well 

spun  on 


again  wiser  and  safer  to  Hill's  Ferry,  where  our 
outfit  was  ferried  over  the  turbulent  San  Joaquin 
that  was  brimful  from  the  melting  snows  of  the 
Sierra.     The  ferrymen  would  give  no  informa- 
tion regarding  the  condition  of  the  roads  beyond, 
but  were  sullen  enough  to  enjoy  running  the 
Styx  transit.     Beyond  the  ferry  false  channels, 
filled  with  water,  crossed  the  road,  —  treacherous 
pools  to  ford.     Even  after  exploring  them  with 
our  saddle-horses,  it  was  not  easy  to  get  our  high 
wagon   through   without  flooding  its    contents. 
Here  and  there  fine  Mallard  ducks  were  feeding 
in  overflowed  lowlands,  and  enough  green-headed 
beauties  were  bagged  to  furnish  variety  to  our 

cuisine. 

A  few  miles  of  half-dry  land,  half  water, 
brought  us  to  the  Merced,  a  broad,  rapid  stream, 
turbulent  with  the  water  from  the  Yosemite  and 
Sierra  snow-fields,  now  thawing  rapidly  under  the 
warm  May  sun.  Again  a  flatboat  rope-ferry  car- 
ried us  over  to  camp  under  wide-armed  oaks 
whose  shade  and  shelter  were  refreshing  after  the 
dry,  shadeless  plains  we  had  been  traversing  for 

many  days. 

Our  route  the  next  morning  led  along  the  south 
bank  of  the  Merced  Kiver  for  several  miles,  where 


,,£=,iiUt-^5j-ii.^«-*'?viv^^"f'--",s.*i*^*-^'i^-^*'--' 


«^«^fe=i'SNt^«*"-" 


100 


GTrSY  DATS. 


the   foliage   that  marks   the   river-borders    pro- 
tected us  from  a  gale  that  was  blowing. 

On  the  unsheltered  plain  in  advance  we  could  see 
clouds  of  dust  long  before  we  reluctantly  started 
out  upon  it.    We  spread  a  canvas  to  shelter  us  from 
the  sun  and  driving  sand  while  we  lunched,  and 
hurried  on  over  a  most  unattractive,  semi-barren 
country,  the  home  of  horned  toads  and  tarantulas. 
Nothing  can  be  more  mechanically  perfect  than 
the  trap-door  with  which  this  huge  spider  closes 
his  hole,  lined  within  with  web,  covered  without 
with  sand  to  correspond  with  the  adjacent  sur- 
face, fitting  so  as  to  keep  out  water  and  defy 
detection.     We  pushed  a  small  twig  into   one 
opened  by  chance,  when  the  spider  seized  it  and 
pulled  as  fiercely  as  a  dog  would.     One  of  our 
party,  in  digging  a  plant  from  a  sandy  ledge  with 
her  fingers,  was  pulled  back  rudely  (as  I  saw  the 
long  legs  of  a  tarantula  movbg  in  the  soil  as  its 
burrow  was  invaded)  just  in  time  to  avoid  a  bite 

a  bite  that  is  always  painful,  if  not  serious. 

The  body  of  this  giant  spider  is  the  size  of  a 
pigeon's  egg,  the  legs  extend  four  or  five  inches 
when  spread,  and  it  is  altogether  an  object  of 
terror  and  disgust.  The  horned  toad,  or  more 
properly  lizard,  has  a  cei-tain  style  in  his  ugli- 


1 


j-'j«tok.^.**jJKrtli«»*fo»>-v*<fe*i'i«»'*s*i«'»««i-"i«a'^i*^^ 


i.«,  Kr"-  S5=*i,"i»i**  s^^.'i 


(tYPSY  DAYS. 


101 


pro- 
lid  see 
itarted 
sfrom 
d,  and 
barren 
ntulas. 
t  than 

closes 
without 
it  sur- 
i  defy 
bo  one 
it  and 
of  our 
re  with 
aw  the 
I  as  its 
I  a  bite 
serious, 
e  of  a 

inches 
►ject  of 
ir  more 
is   ugli- 


ness, and  is  an  amusing  pet.  Our  petite  had  a 
four-in-hand  of  them  carefully  tethered  to  stakes 
at  our  camp,  and  they  lived  many  months  with 

us. 

Very  agreeable  was  the  change  from  the 
stormy,  wind-swept,  arid  plains,  to  the  foliage  of 
the  foot-hills,  where  a  most  beautiful  and  inter- 
esting succession  of  varied  vegetation  is  si^n, 
changing  in  a  marked   manner  with   uicreasing 

altitude. 

The  manzanita,  with  dark  red  stems,  seems  to 
have  no  bark,  so  smooth  and  round  are  the  di- 
minutive trunks  of  the  shrub  that  is  abundant  on 
the  lower  levels  of  the  foot-hills  :  while  blooming 
and  beautiful  in  May  is  the  ceanothus,  or  wild 
lilac,  with  flowers  of  varying  shades  of  blue. 
Various  and  very  interesting  pines  are  met  with. 
The  digger  pine,  with  a  peculiar  cone  large  with 
hooked  points,  and  the  Coulter  pine  are  first 
seen  on  the  outlines  of  the  vast  giant  forests  of 
the  higher  altitudes. 

Our  first  camp  among  the  hills  at  the  base  of 
the  Sierra  — hills  that  would  be  mountains  if  not 
so  overshadowed  — was  one  to  be  long  remem- 
bered. It  was  on  a  knoll  that  commanded  a  wide 
view ;  one  side  was  precipitous,  the  tops  of  trees 


■  .^^,:^.:\3f-!i'~  -  r. 


102 


orrSY  DAYS. 


growing  on  terrace  below  terrace,  opening  no 
view  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  a  dizzy  down 
look,  but  very  striking.  The  ground  we  were  on 
sloped  80  decidedly  that  our  wagon  was  tied  fast 
for  fear  a  gust  of  wind  would  send  it  a  thousand 
feet  or  more  below,  and  our  tents  were  staked 
with  unusual  care,  which  did  not  prevent  our 
men's  tent  from  starting  with  a  puff  of  night- 
wind  to  explore  the  dark  chasms  below  us.  Only 
their  prompt  action   rescued  it  from  an  aerial 

flight. 

Our  tent  was  full  of  flowers  new  to  us,  whUe 
a  shrub  growing  all  about  imparted  the  most 
delicious  fragrance  to  the  vicinity,  an  aro- 
matic odor  exceeding  incense  in  sensuous  gratifi- 
cation. 

As  we  lingered  long  over  our  evening  meal, 
the  full  moon  rose  from  the  Sierra  peaks,  lighting 
80  wonderful  a  scene  of  wild,  romantic  character, 
—  onesofu'.l  of  all  the  picturesque  features  of 
snow-summits,  dark  forests  and  suggestive  depths, 
that  it  was  late  before  we  were  willing  to  close 
our  curtains  upon  the  enchanting  view,  —  one  we 
rose  early  to  enjoy  again  when  daybreak  opened 
new  beauties  as  the  light  penetrated  the  shadows 
below  us. 


'i 


„-5«»«*cw.»jisaisiEKf»ei»w«»»#******-; 


Kdt*Ba6i»ii»^i»«-«»«»*s»»at»»«*»W' 


0YP8Y  DAYS. 


103 


r  no 
lown 
re  on 
fast 
isand 
i;aked 
;  our 
light- 
Only 
Eierial 


Our  memories  held  delightful  pictures  of  camps 
under  rustling  palmettos,  under  sighing  spruces 
of  the  far  north,  amid  snow-clad  pines  and  the 
white  birches  of  the  great  lakes ;  but  no  memory, 
indeed  no  fancy,  can  equal  the  perfection  of  the 
camp-life  attainable  on  the  Sierra  slopes. 


while 

most 

aro- 

ratifi- 

meal, 
:bting 
•acter, 
res  of 
epths, 
I  close 
me  we 
ipened 
ladows 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Mariposa  suggested  the  early  gold  craze. 
The  town,  with  one-story  shops  provided  with 
bullet-proof  iron  shutters,  has  been  a  miners'  cen- 
tre  for  buying  supplies,  for  gambling  away  the 
fruits  of  success  and  for  glorious  sprees;  but 
rocker-gold  mining  seems  now  to  have  passed 
into  the  hands  of  Chinamen,  the  profits  being 
only  a  fair  reward  for  hard  labor. 

Some  miles  beyond  Mariposa  we  found  a  way- 
side halting-place  where  milk  and  cake  were 
daintily  served.  Here  we  were  told  that  we  could 
reach  Clark's,  the  "Big  Tree  Station,"  before 
dark  (it  was  then  three  o'clock),  and  that  the 
summit  before  us  was  but  seven  hundred  feet :  so 
we  pushed   on  confidently,  although  we   had   a 


,.«**«s*^t«»*ai^«***>a''a-=^*«*6'^^ 


i,i|f;:4B<!«W»«'WKaii*«*iWS»»? 


iff  ,«ii»Si!«S4^^W*^*»"« 


tlVrsV  DAYS. 


lo: 


sraze. 
with 
'  cen- 
y  the 
;  but 
)a88ed 
being 

I  way- 
were 
could 
before 
at  the 
et:  so 
had   a 


lame  horse  and  were  usin^  our  best  siuklle-burse 
in  the  harness. 

Onward  and  upward  we  pushed,  new  trees,  new 
flowers  and   novel   forms  of   roek  iurestinji'  our 
attention  during  frequent  halts.     As  we  ascended, 
the  size  of   the  trees  increased  rapidly.     Single 
specimens,  larger  than  we  had  ever  st'en,  appeared 
in  the  thick  growth  that  clothed  the  mountain- 
side.    Golden  mosses,  vines  and  lichens,  all  beau- 
tiful, made  us  forget  time  until  the  sun  was  near 
the  crest  of  the  distant  coast  range,  when  we  con- 
sulted our  aneroid   barometer   to  learn  that  we 
were  some  three  thousand   feet  above  the  little 
lunching  chrdet,  yet  the  suuuuit  was  not  in  sight. 
The  road  was  a  very  fine  one  ;  at  times  it  led 
far  into  the  mountain-side  to  complete  the  circuit 
of  a  ravine,  crossing  narrow  gorges  and  laughing 
brooks,  then  out  into  the  light  again  around  bold 
spurs  of  rock,  each  turn  showing  a  more  extended 
view,  far  over   the   San  Joaquin  Valley,  to  the 
coast  range,  where  we  had  driven  so  nuuiy  days, 
until,  as  the  sun  went  down,  we  thought  we  could 
see  it  through  the  break  of  the  highland,  made 
by  Monterey  Bay,  sink  into  the  Pacific. 

The  last  rays  lighted  a  most  novel  scene.     Wo 
had  finally  reached  the  summit  and  the  home  of 


',  .^iififfliS^S'^^f  f-^**^^"*"'' 


M/«««j*c>trif:w-  -*' 


i^ 


106 


(lYP.sY  DAYS. 


the  jrmit  trees,  which  stood  tall  and  stately,  some 
of  tlu'in  covcreil  with  jroKk'n  moss  that  made  them 
resunibU'  the  jrihled  pipes  of  a  great  orj^uu,  otliers 
dark  and  somhre.     Tlioy  were  not  the  giant  se- 
(luoia,  hut  the  hardly  less  impressive  sugar-pine, 
Douglas  spruce,  cedars,  and  their  giant  km  that 
so  overwhelm  ns  with  surprise  and  annul  our  pre- 
conceived   ideas    of    forest-trees.       There   were 
fallen  trees  about  us  whose  mammoth  stems  prone 
on  the  earth  could  not  be  overlooked  from  our 
saddles.     In   the  deepening  gloom  they  seemed 
more  monstrous  than  they  were,  to  our  unaccus- 
tomed eyes,  and  we  felt  conscious  of  sensations 
like  those  of  Gulliver  in  Brobdignag. 

Masses  of  snow  still  rested  on  the  road,  to  the 
terror  of  our  horses.  Raised  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, they  had  never  seen  winter,  and  from  this 
novel  substance  under  their  feet,  or  from  scenting 
some  wild  beast,  they  screamed  with  fright,  the 
thrilling  sound  a  horse  rarely  utters,—  one  we  had 
never  heard  before,  nor  wish  to  listen  to  again. 

We  had  to  lead  them  over  the  soft  path  of  pme 
needles;  and  to  induce  them  to  cross  the  bridges 
over  the  mountain  torrents,  that  were  sheets  of 
white  foam,  required  all  of  our  skill  and  patience, 
as  they  called  and   answered   one  another ;  but 


^,^...*,i*/Si»«^'aBAr.^>i»sn*«*»i»ft*»« 


tl  Yl'.s  Y  DA  I'.V. 


107 


some 
them 
itliers 
nt  se- 
-pine, 
1  thnt 
r  pre- 
were 
prone 
[u  our 
L>cme(l 
accus- 
latiuns 

tu  the 
1  Cali- 
>m  this 
cntiiig 
ht,  the 
we  had 
jain. 
of  pine 
bridges 
eets  of 
atience, 
jr ;  but 


when  it  grew  dark,  thoy  Hnrrondcrnl  thcnisolvpH 
to  inanagomont  with  a  trust  that  was  ahnost  chihl- 
like,  and  pressed  as  closely  as  possible  to  our 
shoulders,  as  we  felt  for  the  path  we  could  not 
see.  Horses  that  have  been  picketed  about  a  tent, 
fed  from  the  table,  as  ours  often  were,  are  com- 
panions day  and  night,  and  arc  ridden  far  away 
from  their  native  homos  and  familiar  scenes, 
assume  relations  of  affection  and  dependence  that 
are  very  interesting.  They  become  more  like 
dogs,  clinging  closely  to  the  movements  of  the 
party  if  permitted,  and  wild  with  alarm  if  sepa- 
rated from  it. 

Knowing  nothing  of  the  long  road  down  the 
mountain,  our  progress  was  slow  and  uncertain 
until  the  moon  rose,  shedding  a  faint  light  through 
the  trees  that  held  their  dark  tops  often  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  above  us.  At  last  we  saw  the 
gleam  of  the  lights  at  "  Clark's,"  a  snug  hotel ; 
but  Madame  and  La  Petite  declined  to  seek  the 
shelter  of  a  house,  late  as  it  was ;  so  feeling  for  a 
level  plateau  with  our  feet,  we  turned  aside  into 
the  forest,  where  in  half  an  hour  we  were  as  much 
at  home  as  ramblers  can  be. 

By  the  light  of  a  reflecting  lamp  we  found  a 
few  sugar-pine   cones,  each   one  a   handful.     A 


i?,/i<!i*«i-*'s'.'*»M»«-'-  ■ 


r 


I  OH 


mrsy  h.\ys 


(In/.t'ii  miuli-  a  l>riHi:int  lij-ht  wliicli  La  IVtitf  kt'pt 
supplifil  with  frcsli  fiwl,  \vliil»'  the  liorHew  wcro 
pick.'tod  ami  tln'  t»'iitH  ititclied.  Really  as  rapiiUy 
as  it  can  bo  writtni,  a  j;;I<i(>iuy  forcst-iiook  was 
lraiisf<inn('<l  int«)  a  cliccrv  Ihhiu',  where  over  u 
roarinj,'  stove  various  good  things  were  eookiii}?, 
while  a  eainp-lire  illumiiiuted  the  interior  of  oar 
tent  with  a  glow  that  hrought  out  vividly  tiio 
warmth  and  eolor  of  the  j>ay  blankets  and  crim- 
son eushit)ns.  'I'he  transition  from  darkness,  fa- 
tiirue  and  anxietv  to  surroundings  so  luxuriouH 
aiul  eheprful  always  acet-nted  our  camping  after  a 
louir  dav's  travel,  and  enhaiu-ed  the  enjoyment  of 
food  and  rest.  Weary  as  we  were,  wo  sjit  for 
hours  burning  the  huge  eones  to  flash  light  far 
into  the  forest,  and  chatting  over  the  day's  events 
before  we  dropped  back  on  our  blankets  to  sleep. 
It  was  late  before  we  awoke  the  next  niorning  to 
SL'o,  before  we  had  separated  our  dreams  from  tho 
reality  of  our  si^-iation,  the  face  of  an  Indian 
8(piaw  steadily  peering  at  us  through  the  folds  of 
th<!  tent. 


"ft-      ?  ■£■■^'-1^  ,i5l>..-.  Vn  '<  i*-;i=>^^u.***r*' 


,-a*«M*ii«S^*s;%i=i*s*^^^J»^:^=^!i;<t«r^w , 


■^}  *«>ViUfl^Ja>S*^i^Vi^.  .T'X'.SMai&iJ^-?*. '-^i^^-*''*-'-*^''^**^'''^'^^'*^'' ' 


kept 
wcro 
pidly 

WJIH 

cr  a 
kiiij?, 
I  our 
f  the 
criin- 
H,  f  a- 
irious 
Cter  a 
nt  of 
,t  for 
it  fur 
vents 
sleep, 
ng  to 
HI  the 
lulian 
Ids  of 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

"Clauk'k,"  or  the  "  Big  Tree  vStation,"  is  on  the 
Merced  route  to  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and  the  near- 
est point  to  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  "  hig  trees." 
Stages  daily  passed  our  camp  laden  with  tourists, 
nearly  all  of  whom  were  making  the  trip  as  rajv 
idly  as  possible,  eager  to  see  the  salient  points  of 
the  valley  and  be  off  and  away. 

Yet  there  were  many  inducements  to  linger  and 
enjoy  the  great  forests,  to  breathe  the  air  so  full  of 
the  soft  odors  peculiar  to  evergreen  woodlands, 
and  rest  surrounded  by  superb  scenes.  Winter 
amid  the  mountains  is  very  much  in  earnest.  The 
fall  of  snow  blocks  the  roads  until  often  the  only 
egress  is  on  snow-shoes;  but  May  sees  a  beautiful 
spring  casting  lavish  favors  of  verdure  and  bloom 


r^j»-^*t-''j>  ifofvv*to).'i».sr- 


110 


arrsY  days. 


i.\ 


broadcast,  and  those  who  can  Unger  among  the 
rfivines  have  loveliness  all  about  them. 

Four  miles  away,  througii  the  sombre  forest  by 
a  trail  that  saddle-horses  can  follow,  the  giant  se- 
quoias stand.  We  mounted  our  horses, —  Fergu- 
son with  our  gipsy  girl  of  seven  years  before  him 
on  sure-footed  Sam,  Madame  on  her  faithful  Billy 
Gray,  the  cook  following  on  Jerry,  with  a  hamper 
of  lunch, —  and  set  out,  climbing  leisurely  along 
the  trail,  passing  trees  of  ten  and  twelve  feet 
ciliameter  constantly,  sjigar-pines  straight  and 
cylindrical,  reaching  from  two  hundred  and  fifty 
to  three  hundred  feet  into  the  air,  with  room 
under  their  lowest  branches  for  the  monarchs  of 
Eastern  woodlands. 

Under  the  shade,  bursting  up  at  the  edge  of 
the  snow  that  still  remained,  we  saw  for  the  first 
time  the  snow-flower,  a  gorgeous  bloom  very  del- 
icate in  detail.  A  plant  like  an  asparagus  head, 
but  much  larger,  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches 
in  diameter,  pushes  up  through  the  soil  without  a 
leaf,  and  when  about  six  inches  high,  opens  a  soft 
crimson  mass  of  flowers,  in  character  resembling 
a  hyacinth,  with  encircling  ribbons  of  scarlet  and 
black.  It  is  of  extreme  beauty,  and  one  can  but 
regret  that  it  is  dif&cult,  if  not  quite  impossible, 


».'»ir!B«^-Sf«^3SS»S^:5?W!tSBlR.Kri!^ 


long  the 


'orest  by 
[^ant  se- 
-  Fergu- 
Eore  him 
Ful  Billy 
hamper 
ly  along 
live  feet 
;ht  and 
md  fifty 
Lh  room 
archs  of 

edge  of 
the  first 
i^ery  del- 
is head, 
o  inches 
ithout  a 
as  a  soft 
iembling 
irlet  and 
can  but 
possible, 


»Si!@!5('«5BS»TW^-  SS 


'Jlf^Jt  i^\^«**-r 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


Ill 


to  have  them  show  their  glories  where  more  lovers 
of  flowers  can  enjoy  them. 

Our  pointer  started  a  (leer  from  his  midday 
rest  to  hound  before  us,  and  beyond  doubt,  many 
of  the  animals  of  the  Sierra  were  at  home  among 
the  ravines  we  followed.  We  brought  no  guide, 
escaping  the  annoyance  of  vi.siting  wonderful 
things  "personally  conducted,"  but  found  our 
way  along  the  trail  that  evidently  was  not  often 
followed  at  that  time. 

We  came  unexpectedly  upon   the  cinnamon- 
colored  sequoias,— marked  trees  from  their  pecu- 
liar bark  and  its  tint,  and  extremely  beautiful  in 
outline   and    character.     So  perfectly  are  they 
proportioned  that  the   first  impression  is  rather 
one  of   great  beauty  than  size.     Indeed  it  took 
time,  study  and  comparison  to  realize  the  immen- 
sity of  the  stems  towering  so  lightly  in  the  air. 
Two  were  quite  near  us,  standing  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  stream.     This  bank  was  fifteen  or 
twenty   feet   high,  but   the  vast  roots  extended 
from  top  to  bottom,  grasping  it  as  if  it  was  a  hil- 
lock, with  massive  interlacing   roots  that   alone 
could  uphold  the  towering  trees  that  held  their 
heads  on  high  as  if  defying  time  and  storms  for- 
ever.    These  trees  were  about  fifteen  feet  in  clear 


it 


112 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


diameter,  not  large  members  of  the  giant  family, 
but  among  the  most  perfect,  tempting  us  to  long 
study  before  passing  on  to  others.  One  of  the 
same  size,  or  larger,  was  prone  upon  the  earth, 
giving  a  greater  impression  of  magnitude  than 
those  that  were  standing. 

Our  rambles  eventually  brought  us  to  the 
famous  "Grizzly  Giant,"  the  patriach:  thirty- 
four  feet  in  diameter,  carrying  immense  size  with 
slight  diminution  to  the  limbs  which  were  well 
towaid  the  top.  These  wonders  of  the  arborical 
world  do  not  disappoint  the  most  exalted  antici- 
pations of  their  grandeur ;  they  are  so  truly  vast 
that  long  study  of  their  towering  forms  enhances 
the  delight  they  inspire,  and  one  leaves  them  with 
sincere  regret. 

Onward,  Yosemite-ward :  the  road  is  through 
glorious  woodland  with  wild  mountiiin  scenery  of 
constantly  increasing  boldness  before  the  eye. 
Each  succeeding  summit  gives  more  definite  sug- 
gestion of  the  wonderful  beauties  of  the  valley, 
so  that  one  reaches  Inspiration  Point  by  steps 
admirably  calculated  to  lead  up  to  the  highest 
enjoyment  of  this  first  look  into  the  great  chasm. 
It  is  a  view  that  perhaps  has  no  equal ;  it  is  so 
harmonious  in  altitude  and  extent,  so  surprising 


aVPSY  DAYS. 


113 


family, 
to  long 
of  the 
;  earth, 
le  than 

to  the 
thirty- 
ize  with 
sre  well 
iborieal 
I  antiei- 
uly  vast 
nhauccs 
em  with 

through 
inery  of 
he  eye. 
lite  sug- 
i  valley, 
)y  steps 

highest 
i  chasm. 

it  is  so 
rprising 


in  combination,  that  for  a  time  it  pours  sensations 
upon  the  eye  that  the  mind  fails  to  comprehend. 
The  vision  has  to  learn  new  lessons.  To  regard 
what  looks  like  fine  moss  under  shadowy  cliffs  as 
huge  forests  undt'r  cloven  mountain  precipices, — 
to  see  in  a  silver  thread  the  winding  Merced  River, 

to  recognize  a  wisp  of  white  mist  as  a  rushing 

fall  of  fabulous  altitude,  and  a  field  of  seemingly 
tiny  features,  as  a  valley  seven  miles  long ! 

We  were  not  hurried  on  as  stage  tourists  usu- 
ally were,  but  were  free  to  take  ample  time  to 
study  this  comprehensive  outlook  of  the  varied 
wonders  we  were  later  to  enjoy  in  detail,  until 
they  should  become  familiar  features,  ever  more 
beautiful  as  they  became  better  known. 

Leaving  our  men  and  horses  to  follow,  we 
walked  down  the  mountain-side  with  new  glimpses 
of  the  most  exquisite  character  opening  at  every 
step,  forgetful  of  time,  lingering  until  night  was 
upon  us,  when  we  reached  the  torrent  of  the 
Bridal  Veil  Fall,  which  was  so  swollen  by  water 
from  the  snow-fields  far  above  us,  that  it  was  un- 
safe to  try  the  ford,  a  very  rocky  one  with  a  cur- 
rent of  high  velocity.  We  were  some  miles  from 
any  building,  out  of  food  for  our  horses  and 
short  of  many  necessaries ;  but  there  was  no  get- 


f-ii 


114 


fiVPsr  DAYS. 


ting  on,  80  we  turned  from  the  road  to  a  thicket 
near  the  foot  of  the  Bridal  Veil  Fall,  where  we 
80on  had  a  snug  camp-fire  and  fragrant  balsam 
couches. 

Lying  before  the  camp-fire  we  looked  up  at  the 
great  fall,  which,  in  the  night,  seemed  to  come 
from  the  zenith :  swaying,  rushing,  thundering, 
as  white  as  snow,  indeed  almost  luminous.  From 
eliil's  nine  hundred  feet  above  us  it  sprang,  and 
came  without  a  ledge  to  check  its  fall. 

At  times  the  torrent  poured  directly  down, 
Heecy  and  quiet ;  then  with  a  cannon-like  boom  it 
would  sway  far  away  to  be  wafted  back  again,  so 
closely  that  the  spray  fell  upon  us  and  the  tree 
glistened  with  the  mist-drops  in  the  fire-light.  It 
was  a  weird,  ghost-like  presence,  one  we  watched 
for  hours,  until  the  moon  shone  over  the  towering 
cliffs  to  dispel  some  of  the  mystery  of  the  sway- 
ing form,  while  revealing  still  new  beauties.  As 
the  frost  of  the  night  locked  up  the  water  of  the 
snow-buried  mountain  tops,  the  power  of  the 
stream  was  slightly  checked ;  but  all  night  long 
the  ground  trembled  and  the  boom  of  the  torrent 
prevented  us  from  forgetting,  even  in  sleep,  the 
white-robed  Spirit  of  the  Sierra. 


i  thicket 

here  we 

balsam 


p  at  the 
to  come 
ndering, 
From 
ing,  and 

Y  down, 
boom  it 
gain,  so 
the  tree 
?ht.  It 
watched 
owering 
le  sway- 
es.  As 
r  of  the 
of  the 
ht  long 
!  torrent 
eep,  the 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

The  great  cataract  was  not  the  creation  of  a 
dream,  but  on  our  early  awakening  was  coming 
as  white  and  beautiful  as  ever  from  the  blue  sky. 
The  volume  of  water  was  lessened  by  the  cold  ni 
the  mountains,  so  we  hastened  our  packing  to 
make  an  early  crossing  of   the   ford  that   had 
baffled  us  the  night  before.     As  our  last  thnigs 
were  being  stored,  a  large  open  coach  drawn  by 
six  horses  dashed  through  the  river,  and  up  the 
road  on  a  gallop,  bearing  a  gay  party  of  tourists 
who  waved  salutation  and  cheered  us   as   they 

spun  along.  »        i        xu 

They  were  going  out,  and  in  a  few  days  the 
individuals  of  the  merry  partie  des  voyageurs 
would  be  scattered  far  and  wide,  — to  Australia, 


116 


(,)•/'>  V  /^tv>. 


China,  Orefjon  or  the  East,  ix-coimtinj;  in  various 
tonjjues  the  beauties  of  the  Yoseniite  Valley. 

The  ford  was  a  deep  one  tilled  with   bowlders, 
the  powerful  current  was  r()llin<;  on  all  the  time, 
the  water  was  up  to  the  box  of  the  w:igon  ;  but 
the  ladies  were  on  the  high  drivei's-seat,  and  our 
perishables   piled    up   on    the    rear    tuut   out   of 
danger,  with  the  e(H>k  precariously  balaneed  on  the 
summit  of  the  eoUection.     The  writer  prospected 
the  ford  on   horseback,  and  all  passed  through 
safely,  finding  an  excellent  road  winding  between 
the  Merced  liiver    and  the    south  walls  of  the 
mountains.  Sunrise  is  practically  a  midday  event : 
so  tall  are  the  lofty  walls  that  encircle  the  valley  ; 
and  we  drove  merrily  along  under  the  shadows  of 
the  towering  cHffs  with  gorgeous  views  opening 
momentarily  before  us,  seeking  a  spot  for  a  i"«r- 
manent  camp,  embarrassed  only  in   selection  by 
the  myriad  of   charming  situations  that  offered 
rival  attractions. 

Our  choice  fell  upon  a  sloping  [dain  under  the 
shadow  of  the  Sentinel  Rock,  an  obelisk  shaft 
that  pierced  the  sky  three  thousand  feet  above  us. 
A  wnall  stream  rustling  from  the  craggy  summit 
dissipated  into  spray  by  falling  froni  rock  to 
rock,  came  rushing  by  our  tent,  brilliant,  pure 


various 

)owl<lt'r8, 
lie  tiiiu', 
jon  ;  but 
iuul  our 
,    out   of 
I'd  on  tilt' 
lospected 
through 
;  between 
8  of  the 
iiy  event : 
le  valley ; 
ladows  of 
)  opening 
or  a  |>«'r- 
eetlon  by 
it  offered 


under  the 
lisk  shaft 
above  us. 
»y  Rummit 
1  rock  to 
iaut,  pure 


'   dhtiJQ 


/ 


/ 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


117 


and  coM,  while  a  few  scattered  pines  afforded 
shade  for  the  few  hours  of  midday  during  which 
the  sun  peered  over  the  royal  summits  that  shut 
in  the  sky  to  a  narrow  limit. 

From  our  well  chosen  encampment,  six  water- 
falls were  in  sight,  including  the  great  Yosemite 
Fall.     Indeed  it  was  hardly  necessary  to  move  to 
see  many  of  the  most  exquisite  features  of  this 
unequalled  spot;  so  we  spread  out  our  blankets 
and  cushions,  and  rested  hour  after  hour,  realiz- 
ing the  vastness  and  wonderful  characteristics  of 
the  varied  scene.     The  Yosemite  Fall,  two  thou- 
sand six  hundred  feet  high,  was  opposite  to  us, 
brilliant  in  full  sunlight,  — a  wonderful  feature. 
The  sound  of  the  rushing  waters  filled  the  whole 
valley;   and   every   few   moments    booming    ex- 
plosions  came   from   the   torrents,  echoing   like 
peals  of  artillery  over  the  continuous  roar  of  the 
cataract.      ThJse   loud   reports    strike    the    ear 
when  the  streams  are  full,  day  and  night.     They 
are  attributed  to  variou,    causes,  such  as  great 
rocks   falling   over,   or    more    probably   to    the 
sudden   release   of   compressed   air   which   finds 
vent  when  the  torrent  sways  rapidly  away  to  one 
side  or  the  other,  as  it  does  constantly.     We  have 
noticed  the  mme  waving  aside,  like  a  curtain 


Its 


tiVrSV  DAYS. 


blown  bv  the  wind,  at  tlie  Staubach  Fall  in 
Switzerland  and  the  same  detonations,  but  in 
a  loss  degree,  as  might  be  expected  when  the 
falls  are  compared:  the  Swiss  fall  being  but 
six  hundred  feet  high,  or  less  than  one  quarter 
the  altitude  of  the  famous  Sierra  cataract. 

The  fall  of  stones  at  the  time  of  high-water 
renders  it  unsafe  to  approach  the  foot  of  either 
fall  without  great  caution,  as  we  found  after 
having  been  exposed  to  danger  from  fragments 
of  rock  that  came  with  meteoric  force,  to  be 
shattered  on  the  cliffs  about  us  as  we  stood  near 
the  Yosemite.  When  our  gaze  turned  from  the 
Yosemite  Cascade,  the  great  granite  precipice  of 
El  Capitan  was  a  feature  that  was  of  endless 
interest.  From  the  lofty  summit  of  this  brilliant 
crag  a  small  rivulet  leaped  into  the  air,  —  falling, 
falling,  falling,  becoming  first  spray  and  then 
white  foam,  then  from  its  velocity  a  thin  almost 
invisible  mist,  to  sway  with  the  varying  wind 
which  at  times  caught  the  impalpable  stream  and 
carried  it  cloud-like  over  the  mountain.  Often 
the  stream  was  so  dissipated  that  it  could  be 
traced  only  by  the  shadow  it  cast  on  the  white 
rock,  before  which  it  was  wafted  like  the  spirit 
of  A  cascade.     Amid  all  these  beautiful  things 


oypsV  DAYS. 


119 


\\\  in 
ut  in 
n  the 
r    but 

uarter 


•water 
either 

after 
ments 
to  be 
[  near 
tn  the 
ice  of 
ndless 
illiant 
illing, 

then 
ilmost 

wind 
n  and 
Often 
Id  be 

white 

spirit 
things 


our  situation  was  a  most  fortunate  one,  quite 
remote  from  hotels,  leaving  us  free  to  study  the 
gigantic  features  without  any  distracting  com- 
panionship, or  intruding  suggestions  from  guides 
or  peddlers. 

Ordinary  tourists  were  hampered  by  more  or 
less  annoying  restrictions  as  to  guides,  saddle- 
horses  and  routes;  they  were  often  hurried  to 
keep  up  with  the  impatient  souls  who  never 
linger  to  enjoy  impressions,  and  nearly  always 
were  accompanied  by  a  gushing  element  more  or 
less  pronounced,  ready  to  essay  putting  the 
wonders  —  so  full  of  inspiring  suggestion  —  into 
superlatives  of  especial  unfitness. 

All  these  vexations  we  escaped;  indeed  our 
tent  was  ordinarily  as  secluded  as  if  we  were  the 
discoverers  of  the  valley.  Beside  a  daily  stage, 
there  was  little  passing  our  retreat  to  remind  us 
of  companionship  other  than  that  of  the  stu- 
pendous works  of  nature. 

All  tended  to  the  perfection  of  gypsy  life, 
especially  as  we  did  not  permit  the  tempting 
points  about  us  to  so  hasten  our  inspection  of 
them  as  to  expose  our  minds  too  rapidly  to  the 
intense  impressions  they  must  make  on  any  one 
who  is  sensitive  to  the  beauties  and  wonders  of 


120 


GYPSY  DAYf!. 


nature.  There  is  probably  no  accessible  spot 
where  vast  and  magnificent  combinations  of 
mountain  and  valley  are  so  interwoven  with  the 
beauties  of  calm  and  falling  water,  forest,  cliff 
and  dome  as  in  the  valley  we  were  camping  m ; 
and  quietly  as  we  lived  among  the  wonders,  we 
could  but  be  at  times  bewildered  and  over- 
whelmed with  all  that  excited  awe,  wonder  and 
admiration,  nor  did  the  deep  impress  of  our 
surroundings  lessen  as  day  by  day  we  became 
familiar  with  them. 


*»• 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Ouu  breakfast,  served  in  the  open  air  under  a 
low-spreading  pine,  was  a  very  different  event 
from  the  conuuonphice  beginning  of  the  day 
within  the  confines  of  civilization. 

Sleep  in  tents  leaves  the  gypsy  rambler  with 
a  fresh,  wide-awake  vigor  that  seldom  favors  one 
when  aroused  from  the  soft  beds,  curtained 
chambers  and  artificial  heat  of  even  the  most 
perfectly  ventilated  houses ;  it  has  a  restoring 
influence  that  has  not  only  "  knitted  up  the 
ravelled  sleeves  of  care,"  not  only  made  good  the 
waste  and  weariness  of  a  day  forever  gone,  but 
one  that  gilds  the  glad  possession  of  another 
morning  with  keen  appreciation,  high  hope  and 
physical  enjoyment. 


122 


OYPSY  DAYS. 


About  US,  around  our  gypsy  home,  our  horses 
were  tethered,  watching  our  movements  with  an 
intelligence  that  comes  only  from  nomadic  com- 
panionship. Billy  Gray,  if  loosed,  would  take 
his  feed-box  in  his  mouth  and  bring  it  right 
side  up  like  a  contiibution-box,  soHciting  an  extra 
treat  of  grain;  and  if  refused  he  would  com- 
mence a  career  of  mischief  that  only  ended  when 
he  was  ignominiously  led  to  his  tether-pin,  after 
having  burned  his  nose  on  the  stove-pipe  and 
upset  many  things,  the  cook's  temper  included. 

At  the  time  of  our  lingering  in  the  valley  the 
sun's  increasing  power  was  unlocking  the  streams, 
opening  the  buds,  painting  the  flowers,  giving 
rainbow  color  to  the  spray  from  the  lofty  cat- 
aracts, and  awakening  the  animal  and  vegetable 
life  that,  tented  under  billows  of  snow,  had  slept 
away  a  long   winter.     All   was   fresh,  fragrant 
and  vigorous.     Life,  motion  and  power  pulsated 
in  sky,  water  and  sod,  filling  our  ears  with  the 
roar   of    the    cascades,    our    eyes  with    myriad 
beauties,  our  lungs  with  the  spring-breath  of  the 
woodland  laden  with  the  perfumes  of  bursting 
bud  and  opening  flower,  and  our   hearts  with 
gratitude   at   being  permitted   thus  —  an  undis- 
turbed little  family  circle  in  a  tint^:;d  home  —  to 


•.  *ar«i-  *ii»«i  --*!%« J»Pf*Bi*"-  " 


GTrST  DATS. 


128 


give  ourselves  to   enjoying   scenes  that  are  un- 
equalled. 

It  is  difficult  to  realize  how  much  of  the 
impress  of  the  valley  must  be  lost  to  those  who 
are  within  hotels  —  all  bustle  and  confusion  from 
arriving  and  departing  tourists;  to  the  parties 
who  bargain  for  strange  horses,  follow  different 
guides,  invade  such  sanctuaries  as  the  Minor 
Lake  in  company  with  half  a  hundred  sharp- 
voiced  "personally  conducted"  wanderers,  and 
are  hastened  here  and  there  to  see  wonders  that 
must  forever  float  in  their  minds  as  mixed  phan- 
toms of  confused  succession. 

Our  days  were  half  idle,  given  to  gazing  at 
the  cataracts,  the  cliffs  and  domes,  watching  from 
eouehes  of  fragrant  balsam  the  shadows  come 
and  go,  and  letting  the  delicious  influences  of 
the  magnificence  about  us  make  their  slow 
impress  until  they  became  so  deep  and  lasting 
that  through  the  memories  of  many  a  later 
wandering  the  scenes  of  the  Yosemite  come  as 
fresh  and  shapely  to  mind  as  the  development  of 
a  well-exposed  photographic  plate. 

Occasionally,  as  a  mild  form  of  industry,  we 
took  trout  from  the  clear  pools  of  the  Merced 
giver,  —  a  welcome  addition  to  our  bill  of  fate, 


.•w 


-^t'7l^=t^fSttfSlJOfS»''^^*'"  ' 


124 


a  YVS  Y  If  A  JVS'. 


but  H  less  delicate  fish  by  far  than  their  speckled 
cousins  of  the  Eastern  States. 

Our  horses  proved  sure-footed  and  more 
powerful  than  the  ponies  that  are  secured  for 
climbing  the  trails  to  the  hij;h  points  of  interest. 
The  trails  are  very  crooked,  narrow  and  gener- 
ally uncertain,  often  passing  points  where  a 
stumbling  horse  might  throw  a  rider  a  thousand 
feet  over  ragged  rocks.  At  first  it  is  dizzy 
climbing,  causing  as  much  fear  as  pleasure  to 
nervous  persons ;  but  the  wonderful  scenes  soon 
overcome  all  timidity,  and  equestrians  learn  to 
leave  their  horses  to  pick  their  own  way,  which 
they  do  with  great  caution. 

Our  first  ascent  was  to  Glacier  Point,  —  an 
excursion  giving  a  most  comprehensive  series  of 
views,  including  the  especially  noted  points  of 
the  high  Sierras,  fine  down-looks  into  the  valley, 
and  an  extensive  survey  of  the  famous  domes 
and  great  peaks  of  the  ragged  ranges  that 
bewilder  the  eye  with  the  vast  perspectives  of 
rock  and  snow  that  make  a  superb  sky-line  to  the 
far  east. 

Union  Point  first  affords  a  resting-place  two 
thousand  three  hundred  feet  above  the  valley. 
This  rocky  plateau  commands  a  bird's-eye  view 


'litjS^.*;  :*  V.^*-te.*>*-I.-' 


,.j^.>^rtMiW»*^--"*'^**'*t'>«-'  < 


^■i.:-  ,r?-:::-^«i*W.+*--r.Siitt|WBa«« 


(,  )/',sV   /MK.v 


125 


of  the  valley,  iiicliuling  tho  Yoseiuite  Fall,  Mirror 
Lake  and  a  hmulied  ••reat  foatmi's,  and  richly 
rewards  the  toil  of  tho  ascent  should  no  wonders 
be  found  beyond;  but  when  after  a  rest  the 
tourist  passes  on  to  Sentinel  Dome  and  Glacier 
Point,  new  views  unfold  themselves  that  are  not 
included  in  the  sweep  of  the  valley  itself. 

Directly  in  front  of  Glacier  Point,  beyond  a 
deep  precipitous  chasm,  the  magnificent  cataracts 
of    tbe    Vernal    and    Nevada    falls   are    superb 
features :  one  above  the  other  in  a  wild  ravine, 
through  which  the  snow-fed  river  pours  from  the 
high  Sierra,  falling  two  thousand  feet   in    two 
miles,  leaping  at  the  Vernal  Fall  four  hundred 
feet,  and   at    the   Nevada  six   hundred   feet   in 
cascades   of    driven   foam.     All   the    setting   of 
these   cataracts   is   worthy   of    them:    towering 
granite   domes,   riven   peaks,  deep   gorges   with 
dark  foliage  in  such  spots  as  earth  is  found  to 
support  trees,  and  over  all  the  grand  Sierra  sum- 
mits, white  with  mantles  of  snow  that  accent  their 
picturesque  forms  against  the  deep  blue  sky  of 
Nevada.     Part  of  the  way  to  these  points  we 
went  on  horseback  through  cuttings  in  snow  so 
deep  that  we  could   not  reach  the  tops  of  the 
drifts  with  our  whips  while  in  the  saddle.     Men 


i  i 


nrrsr  DAYf. 

extending  these  tunnel-like  cuttings,  but 
we  men  compelled  to  leave  our  steeds  and  go  on 
foot  over  fields  of  hard  snow  that  were  of  un- 
known depths,  where  a  slip  might  send  one  over 
ledges  that  crown  dizzy  heights. 

Our  days  were  full  of  varied  pleasure;  each 
night  developed  new  beauties  as  the  moonlight 
fell  on  tlie  snow-white  cascades  that  with  their 
constant  roar  were  ever  present,  filling  even  our 
■leep  with  consciousness  of  their  ceaseless  power. 

No  one  pen  can  describe  the  mysterious  valley 
•o  long  hidden  in  the  Sierra  fastnesses;  the 
geologist,  the  botanist,  artist,  poets,  scientists, 
ittd  gypsies,  — all  may  give  pages  filled  with 
attempts  to  tell  the  story  of  the  valley,  and 
•fbandon  the  vam  task,  leaving  more  untold. 
Tke  wildest  fancy  can  scarcely  suggest  a  fan- 
teitic  feature  that  does  not  exist,  and  it  is  indeed 
ane  place  where  the  longing  for  wild  and  infinite 
WMity  it  IvUy  satisfied. 


■,^:i«a«7C<M«t  ,«r,4»«--SSt«<»jW*>t'ii»ta>V"-««!*«tW5^JJ^^  6l)iSa>-^l!«!«!/j'U!»«> 


I,  but 
ro  on 

>f    Uh- 

1  over 


each 
nlight 

their 
n  our 
ower. 
valley 
;  the 
ntists, 

with 
r,  and 
mtold. 
Et  fan- 
Indeed 
nfinite 


CHAPTER  XX. 

MjmaiAL    conwderation*   break  mdel;  iMo 
th«  BMit  romantic  moments.     Our  d»y»  weie  fril 
of  ckfigbt,  but  our  hours  for  vagabonding  W9te 
Artmrng  to  an  end.      Hay  (barley  straw)  was 
seventy  dollars  a  ton  and  hard  to  get    Our 
honst  missed  the  nutritious  alfaleria  of  more 
fertik  lands,  and  sh<ywed  that  thay  wooH  not 
long  endure  the  privation  of  valley  rations  com- 
bined with    mountain   climbing;  bo  with  deep 
regret  we  folded  our  tents  to  go,  after  many  day* 
of    delicious    lingering,  once  more    to  strange 
semes.     Our  route  led  us,  by  the  bold  front  of 
El  Capitan,  through  an  avalanche  of  ice  and  snow 
that  had  just  come  over  the  Fall  of  the  Virgin'* 
Teasa  (rather  abundant  and   muddy  t^ars  they 


198 


(;  )/'.S>    DAYS. 


were)  and  oii  ovor  tlu*  mountain  ranges  north  of 
tho  Mcri'i'tl  Kivcr,  wliiili  wiis  roarinj;  savaj^ely 
far  below  iih.  Tlie  varyin^''  views  hel'oro  us  were 
very  {j[rantl,  hut   tame  in  (omparison  witli  those 


^^.'^^ 

"(    (■ 

CoMiMi  111  I   Of   1  iir,  \'  \IM;^ . 


we  were  leaving  ;  and  we  all  Celt,  in  looking  back 
to  the  last  glimpse  of  the  Hall'  Dome  and  Mount 
Starr  King,  that  the  vivid  enjoyments  we  had  so 
fully  realized  would  long  be  more  actual  in 
memory  than  any  new  ones  we  eould  anticipate. 
Our   outward  route  was   by   the   then    newly 


m 


':t<t  -=;^-^Jiii-i'^«-»(i;-.*-jp.*t^jssis^^^iiiit^^*y:^*.*~  "  ^■=tt«ip*i^v7«*:^wa*e*-  - 


i-'  iat*k«*rA">^""  ww^fe^' 


(iVrsv  n.ws. 


12U 


complctcil  ("tiiillcrvillf  Uoiul.  a  will-i  ii;iiu'(  U'll 
and  jifil'dllv  made  toll-rnad.  Sniu  al'lci'  Iciivltij;' 
the  valley  wc  |.asM'i|  lli'  ilti|»  l<»r«I  (»!'  llio 
Cuwadi'rt  ill  .si;;lit  ul'  tin-  Tal's,  w  Iiiili  an-  \crv 
Imndsoiuo,  s(»  uriiiid  (hat  tlu'V  would  lie  a  luaikdl 
fi'aturc  in  any  spot  Itt s  iidl  id*  greater  atlrac- 
tiuns. 

For  some  m\Uf>  the  road  i;  hl<;ii  on  (he  norlh 
side  of  thi'  Canon  of  thi;  M  reed,  whieh,  ia;;in^' 
with  du'  ihxxl  of  s|)rin<.';,  (ills  (h(!  air  \Ni(h  i(s 
ceastdesfi  roar.  \\  hen  al  last  it  disappeared  from 
view  anion;.;'  eraij;s  a. id  foi'  >i,  w.f  were;  i'ov  \\w. 
first  nionient  .since  enterin;^'  the  v;iHey  in  a  (piiet 
woodland,  wli 're  the  stilhiess  was  a  novelty, —  we 
having  l)een  so  ion;^  amid  the  p:  r[)etnal  hoDiii 
and  rush  of  falling-  wat  rs  that  onr  (ar.s  had 
become  aeeustoineil  lo  it. 

From  the  high  passes  norih  of  th(f  Mereed 
there  were  six  thonsand  fet-t  of  dtsccnt  in  onr 
favor  as  wt>  drovi;  westward;  and  ov^r  (he  ^ond 
road  we  went  famously,  exet  pt  wlun  wc;  halted 
to  j>ather  onr  last  souvenirs  of  the  great  forest, — 
huge  eones,  hranehes  cowred  v,it!i  golden  moss, 
sequoia-hark  from  trees  shattered  hy  lightning, 
and  flowers;  (d'  the  litter  we  hid  fouu  1  two 
hundred   and    thirty    dillVrjut   kinds  (all  wildj, 


■-  ■■»«»e*^p^.^«i^'-i*ft'^-- 


130 


GTrST  DATS. 


many  peculiar  to  California,  among  them  abund- 
ant specimens  of  rare  beauty. 

At  niidday  we  passed  the  Merced  Grove  of 
Sequoia  Gigantea,  a  fine  collection  of  the  giant 
trees,  containing  many  of  handsome  form,  but 
none  equal  in  size  to  those  of  the  Mariposa 
Grove.  There  were  however  among  them  speci- 
mens of  twenty  feet  clear  diameter,  larger  by  far 
than   any   trees   found    away   from   the    Sierra 

slopes.  1-11 

Ferguson's  rapid  driving  was  admirable,— 
making  us  feel  safe  when  swinging  around  curves 
so  short  the  leaders  were  sometimes  half  out  of 
sight,  with  precipices  yawning  far  below  the 
narrow  ledges  we  were  upon. 

Thirty.four  miles  we  passed,  amid  lovely 
scenes,  camping  at  Bower  Cave,  where  deep 
among  the  rocks  a  subterraneous  pool  afforded 
interest  for  several  hours'  inspection. 

On  again  —  through  low  half-barren  foot-hills, 
passing  hydrauUc  mining-fields  — to  La  Grange, 
our  last  camp,  on  ground  so  hard  that  an  iron 
tent-pin  could  not  be  driven.  So  great  was  the 
fear  on  the  part  of  the  farmers  of  fire  reaching 
the  vast  grain-fields,  that  we  could  only  get 
permission  to  set  our  stove  by  placing  it  on  the 


ll.-".--yA*iWy^--*:aat-:£?i^^i';iSJ-?-ei^S*.?i:* 


i^^-:-l=ti?-  4«'*K;^li**VV*^'^----^^ 


■^^iS'^S^^^'^'^^''*'i^r^ 


.]t53t'^iij|*iiwr^'au  :f  *fear^*!s?^iatta^"--t^^ 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


131 


em  abund- 

Grove  of 
:  the  giant 

form,  but 
I  Mariposa 
chem  speci- 
rger  by  far 
the    Sierra 

Imirable,  — 

)und  curves 

half  out  of 

below  the 

mid  lovely 
jfheTe  deep 
)ol  afforded 

n  foot-hills, 
La  Grange, 
bat  an  iron 
reat  was  the 
ire  reaching 
d  only  get 
ig  it  on  the 


gravel  in  the  bend  of  a  stream  where  it  was 
watched  with  anxious  eyes. 

It  was  the  twenty-second  of  May,  but  a  sharp 
shower  fell ;  the  day  before  there  was  snow  on 
the  foot-hills,  —  an  unusual  event  for  the  season. 

Our  gypsy  days  were  ending :  this  was  to  be 
the  last  day  of  our  drive  of  seven  hundred  miles 
amid  all  varieties  of  scene  and  all  classes  of 
people;  so  we  abandoned,  not  without  regret, 
our  camping  traps,  our  stove  utensils,  and  the 
many  contrivances  that  had  secured  us  luxuries 
and  comforts  no  matter  how  remote  our  camp  or 
forbidden  our  surroundings. 

With  little  to  pack  and  a  light  wagon  we  were 
early  on  the  road, —  one  of  very  slender  interest, — 
passing  through  grain-fields,  with  here  and  there 
a  house  on  posts,  having  little  look  of  a  home, 
shadeless  and  entirely  unattractive.  At  lunch 
we  haltec  at  one  of  these  houses,  where  kind 
permission  was  accorded  our  cook  to  use  the 
family  stove  in  preparing  our  lunch.  Awaiting 
it  with  keen  appetites,  for  an  hour  we  had  a 
novel  experience  of  climate. 

The  sun  was  high  and  powerful,  the  air  so 
clear  that  there  was  very  little  refraction,  shad- 
ows were  dark  and  sharp-edged,  while  the  cool 


~r--tit^.'4j^-%S5*- 


132 


CrYPSY  DAY,"^. 


Avlnd  I'lom  tlio  Pafific  blew  a  steaily  Wast.     We 
Aveve  too  hot  in  tho  sun  :  so  we  sought  the  only 
shelter  available,  wliich  was  the  unroniantic  north 
suh  of  a  barn,  where  in  three  minutes  we  were 
chillca  ;  we  wont  back  to  get  warm  on  the  sunny 
side  and  wero   soon    sun-scorched ;  agani  we  fled 
to  the  shade,  only  to  be   driven  back  into   the 
bnrnin'"  heat,  and  so  it  was  with  the  ludicrous 
result  that  we  marched  in  procession  around  the 
barn,  chilled,  burned  and  chilled  again,  untd  we 
could  lunch  and  drive  on.  ,  i 

The  twin  p--aks  o!=  Mt  Diav<do  were  the  only 
picturesque  features  before  us  duiing  the  after- 
noon, and  our  most  novel  sensations  were  drivmg 
into  Stockton  to  ba  once  more  amid  a  crowd  on  a 

paved  street. 

Hero  we  took  a  train  for  San  Francisco, 
leaving  our  outfit  to  come  on  the  steamboat. 
Euly'the  next  morning  our  cavalcade  clattered 
into 'the  spacious  court  of  the  Palace  Hotel,  where 
sleepy  servants  gazed  with  surprise  at  the  un- 
usual sp.cta.le  the  gypsy  outfit  presented  in  that 
aristocratic  precinct,  while  the  porters  sent  our 
multifarious  traps  to  our  apartnu'nts. 

Fer.vuson  deftlv  swung  the  four  horses  out  of 
the  colut,  the  cook  followed  on  Billy  Grey  to  a 


We 

only 
orth 
were 
iiiny 
fled 
the 
n"ou8 
I  the 
ill  we 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


188 


sales-stable  where  our  pets  were  sold  to  go  to 
safe  homes,  and  our  gypsying  ^vas  ended :  our 
little  party  of  three- nut-brown,  happy  and 
hardy,  thanks  to  the  air  of  the  sea,  the  exercise 
of  the  coast  range,  the  sunshine  of  the  valleys 
and  the  breath  of  the  pines  on  the  Sierra  slopes! 


:   / 


only 
after- 
•iving 
.  on  a 

icisco, 
iiboat. 
ttered 
where 
le  un- 
n  that 
it  our 

out  of 
y  to  a 


~    •  CHAPTER  XXI. 

GYPSY   DAYS    IN    FLORIDA. 

Fleeing  from  the  cold  of  the  north  in  January, 
we  found  ourselves  steaming  rapidly  away  from 
one  of  the  long  wharves  of  the  lower  St.  John  on 
a  small  impetuous  little  yacht,  one  of  the  busy 
bustling  kind,  imbued  with  the  restless  spirit  that 
small  things  usually  possess  and  freely  exhibit, 
to  show  that  after  all  size  is  not  everythmg. 

It  was  a  day  for  idling,-  the  rapid  steam-puff 
was  not  in  harmony  with  our  inclinations :  so,  lean- 
ing over  the  small  bow  deck  that  just  held  a  bell 
and  two  easy-chairs,  the  order  was  given  to  old 
Paul,  the  well-known  pilot,  to  slow  up,  and  Paul 
conveyed  the  same  to  the  engineer,  when  the 
sharp  ripple  at  the  bow  lost  its  rustle,  the  engine 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


185 


uary, 
from 
in  on 
busy, 
b  that 
hibit, 

tt-pu£E 
,  lean- 
abell 
bo  old 
I  Paul 
n  the 
mgine 


breathed  more  comfortably,  and  with  a  wide,  lazy 
wake  spreading  far  behind  on  the  golden  river, 
we  lay  back  in  our  chairs   and  determined  to 
abandon    northern   haste  and  learn  laziness  in 
earnest,  in  fact  to  do  nothing  as  diligently  as  pos- 
sible.   Indeed,  the  lesson  was  very  easy.    The  slow- 
drifting  clouds,  the  currentless  river,  the  gentle 
wind,  and  all  our  surroundings  were  peaceful  and 
free  from  suggestion  of  haste,  and  coming  as  we 
had  from  driven  clouds  and  hurrying  storms,  it 
was  enough  to  revel  in  sunshine  and  repose,  leav- 
ing for  another  time  action  and  progress. 

The  afternoon  found  us  at  Palatka,  where  the 
larder  was  reinforced,  ice  purchased  and  a  skiff 
obtained.  At  twilight  we  pushed  on,  turning 
into  the  narrower  and  more  picturesque  channels, 
where  the  forest  crowded  out  to  the  water  s  edge 
and  sprays  of  flowering  vines  hung  far  over  the 
flood,  lost  in  vain  admiration  of  their  mirrored 
beauty  and  grace. 

The  water  was  deep  even  to  the  shore,  enabling 
us  to  cut  the  bends  of  the  stream  close  under  the 
foliage  that  rustled  with  the  breeze  made  by  our 
motion,  while  views  of  remarkable  beauty  opened 
every  moment  before  us,  each  in  deeper  shade  and 
more  mysterious  beauty  as  the  rapid  darkness 


136 


arrsY  DAYS. 


came  on.  As  later  every  form  on  shore  was  lost 
in  the  dense  hlackness  of  night,  it  beeunie  a  source 
of  wonder  to  us  how  okl  Paul,  our  colored  pdot, 
could  thread  the  devious  and  narrow  channel ;  but 
on  we  sped,  only  halting  inshore  once  to  let  one 
of  the  great  river-boats  go  by.  The  huge  thnig 
came  panting  like  a  leviathan  breatlung  flame, 
with  wide-open  furnaces  casting  broad  bands  of 
light  over  the  water,  and  rows  of  colored  signal- 
lamps  far  above  the  bright  cabin  windows  ;  she 
made  a  striking  scene  against  the  night  as  she 
sped  on,  bearing  a  gay  throng  of  pleasure-seekers 
to  the  upper  river. 

We  were  not  anxious,  however,  to  get  on. 
There  was  a  wealth  of  beauty,  by  the  way,  that 
few  on  the  great  steamer  would  see,  and  after 
feeling  our  way  for  a  time,  old  Paul  rang  to 
"  Stop  her  !  "  "  Back  her !  "  and  our  little  boat 
drifted  against  a  wood-wharf,  that  no  one  but  our 
pilot  eould  have  found,  with  no  sign  to  mark  it 
under  the  forest  blackness,  and  here  tied  up  to  a 
decayed  dock ;  we  did  not  envy  the  passengers 

going  "  on  time." 

Former  experience  told  how  there  would  be  a 
rush  for  seats  and  a  scrand)le  for  food,  and  a 
long  cue  of  tired  men  and  women  waiting  to  learn 


GirSY  DAl\S. 


187 


lost 
rce 
lot, 
but 
one 
iiig 
me, 
1  o£ 
nal- 
slie 
she 
iers 

on. 
that 
ifter 
r  to 
boat 

our 
k  it 
to  a 
gers 

be  a 
)(1  a 
earn 


from  a  patient  purser  tliat  there  were  no  more 
staterooms,  no  more  beds  on  the  floor,  and  no 
more  blankets  for  a  curl-up  under  the  dining- 
tables.  We  were  not  at  the  mercy  of  negro 
stewardesses,  nor  to  be  snubbed  by  magniflcent 
waiters;  we  were  as  independent  as  chimney- 
sweeps in  a  crowd.  Your  correspondent  was 
admiral  of  the  fleet  (steamer  and  two  skiffs), 
sailing-muster,  "bo'sun  light  and  midshipmite," 
and  chief  of  ordinance  (one  Scott  and  one  Rem- 
ington), while  Madame  was  in  command  of  our 
cabin  passengers  (maid  and  one  child),  where 
she  reigned  supreme  over  a  culinary  department 
consisting  of  two  spirit-lamps  at  night  and  a  fire 
on  shore  in  the  daytime. 

Just  at  the  time  we  tied  up,  hot  tea  was  singing 
on  one  lamp,  hot  soup  (thanks  to  Liebig)  on  the 
other,  and  with  rolls,  devilled  meats  and  canned 
luxuries  there  was  a  good  supper  laid  away,  and 
the  events  of  the  day  came  in  pleasant  retrospect 
through  the  cheering  medium  of  sparkling  wine. 

At  dawn  we  clambered  upon  the  old  wharf. 
A  wood  road  ran  back  from  it  through  the  forest 
to  a  settler's  home.  Birds  were  singing  gaily, 
among  them  our  familiar  summer  friends ;  but 
many  strange  notes  came  from  the  low  growth. 


1  It 

1  !I 


.  ,4a«S*2*te*wi*#wi3afe*i»*fe««*<***^^ 


138 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


Following  what  seemed  to  be  the  sound  of  an 
axe,  a  woodpecker  vras  found,  an  earlier  and  more 
industrlouH  workman  than  the  lazy  crackers.     It 
was  one  of  the  large  fellows  that  are  sometimes 
seen  on  southern  trees  :  as  large  as  a  teal-duck,  a 
gay  handsome  bird,  with  a  bill  like  iron,  and  a 
head  that  enables  him  to  achieve  the  feat  long 
considered  impossible,  —  of  sawing  wood  with  a 
hammer.     Ducks,  herons,  water-turkeys,  ospreys, 
and  other  birds  followed  the  narrow   water  m 
their  flight,  shying  above  the  tree  tops  as  they 
found  us  occupying  their  solitude,   and  saying 
hard  things  of  us  in  their  own  way,  whUe  high 
up  on  a  venerable  cypress  limb  sat  several  ducks, 
rather  an  unusual  sight,  and  there  they  sat  whUe 
we  made  a  fire  and  cooked  our  breakfast,  and 
only  moved  off  when  a  ball  went  very  near  them. 
Nothing  can  equal  this  mode  of  enjoying  the 
Southern  rivers.     From  the  lofty  decks  of  the 
steamers  a  great  deal  is  seen  ;  but  every  moment 
ore  is  hurried  ruthlessly  away  from  some  spot 
where  there  is  every  temptation  to  linger,  and 
then  left  to  whUe  away  hours  at  some  landing 
where    preceding   crowds  have    gathered  every 
flower  and  alarmed  every  bird  with  pistols  and 
parasols. 


,'IU.UI 


arrsT  days. 


139 


an 
ore 
It 
nes 
t,  a 
da 
jng 
h  a 

in 

hey 
ring 
ligh 
ckS) 
hUe 
and 
lem. 

the 

the 
nent 
spot 

and 
ding 
ivery 

and 

VlU.tll 


After  a  leisurely  breakfast  on  shore,  as  free 
from  care  as  gypsies  are,  we  went  on  board,  put 
easy-chairs  on  deck,  laid  our  guns  before  us,  and 
steamed  on  through  scenes  of  great  beauty  and 
variety,  now  and  then  getting  a  duck  which  was 
picked  up  and  enjoyed  by  our  men,  who  cooked 
them  in  the  furnace  under  the  boiler. 

About   noon  we   reached   Lake   George   and 
found  it  very  rough ;  but  leaving  the  channel  wo 
followed  an  unusual  route  through  the   islands 
and  ventured  out,  our  yacht  rolling  a  good  deal, 
but  we  soon  came  under  the  west  shore  and  found 
shelter.     About  midway  on  the  shore  is  one  of 
the  wonderful  springs  that  are  so   beautiful  in 
Florida.     Leaving  the  yacht,  we  poled  in  a  flat 
skiff  over  a  shallow  bar,  and  up  the  stream  that 
flows  from  the  spring.     It  passes  through  water- 
lilies  that   were  swarming  with    duck  and  rail, 
while  in  the  water  that  was  as  clear  as  air  were 
shoals  of  fish  :  bass,  mullet,  long  savage-looking 
garfish  and  huge  catfish.     They  would  not  bite 
any  bait  we  offered,  but  were  easily  punched  with 
an  oar,  and  with  a  spear  numbers  could  have 
been  obtained.     Half  a  mile  from  the  lake  the 
stream  ended  in  a  curve  under  a  high  bank,  and 
here  by  hard  rowing  we  found  the  spring,  and 


JfeiH«>^*.<«aiSteSfe»iSi*2afefe»iwas>as-^^^ 


140 


arrsr  days. 


looked  down  into  a  white  walled  chasm  through 
water  that  seemed  too  ethereal  to  support  our 
skiff.  It  was  a  dizzy  dowiilook  into  this  deep 
pool,  where  long  weeds  writhed  and  swayed  forty 
or  fifty  feet  below  us  in  the  swell  of  the  current, 
and  where  shoals  t)f  huge  fish  would  swim  out 
from  under  rocks  and  he  swcjit  rai>idly  about  like 
shadows.  The  water  ros."  with  such  force  as  to 
make  a  high  boiling  centre,  where  skilful  rowing 
could  poise  a  boat,  only  to  slide*  away  with  a 
rapid  balloon-like  motion  that  was  not  quite 
pleasant.  Fine  palmettos  had  surrounded  this 
wonderful  pool  with  a  fit  and  beautiful  shade  ; 
but  they  were  just  then  a  heai)  of  snu)ulderuig 
ashes,  having  been  cut  away  for  cotton  ground 
that  might  better  have  been  taken  from  the 
unlimited  forest  beyond  the  small  clearing.  Van- 
dal hands  have  rarely  marred  a  more  weird  scene, 
nor  ignorance  more  surely  damaged  the  value  of 
a  rare  possession  ;  but  so  it  is  in  Florida.  All 
hands  —  from  the  jewelled  one  that  wrote  a  lady's 
name  in  a  font  at  St.  Augustine,  to  the  cracker's 
horny  palm  —  are  against  the  ancient,  the  curious 
and  the  beautiful,  and  ere  long  the  shore  may 
bear  quack-medicine  names,  and  old  walls  fall 
before    want    of    taste   and   give   way  to   pine- 


avrSY  DAYS. 


141 


ur 
Bp 

ty 
It, 

ut 
kc 
to 

a 
ite 
lis 
e; 

m\ 
he 
in- 
ae, 
of 


r's 


>U8 

lay 
all 
ae- 


fences  as  has  the  old  and  mysterious  "  Treasury 
wall"  at   St.  Aujijiistine. 

Full  of  reirret  at  the  useless  saerifu'O  of  those 
trees,  we  let  our  boat  drift  down  the  stream,  start- 
linjj  again  the  water-fowl  and  the  fish.  A  pale- 
faced  crackei-boy  came  alon<;side  in  a  dugout 
and  tried  to  sell  a  wild  tiukey  f»)r  a  price  that 
fell  very  rapidly ;  hut  we  left  it  with  him,  as 
hardly  to  he  cooked  over  a  spirit-lamp  or  to  he 
safely  done  by  the  (iremun  under  the  boiler. 

Steaming  on  we  foinid  the  numth  of  the  Upper 
St.  J(din,  now  a  narrow  river,  flowing  with  some 
current  through  dense  forest,  where  new  forms 
of  vejietable  life  abound  and  seeni  to  strive  to 
cover  the  river  with  plants  that  float  in  miniature 
islands  with  the  stream,  and  vines  that  reach  out 
like  cari)ets  of  green  from  the  leaf-laden  shores. 

Animal  life  did  not  abound  here  as  it  did  a 
few  years  before,  but  was  more  abundant  by 
far  than  now.  Every  man  and  boy  on  a  steam- 
boat does  "  Shooting  in  Florida  "  with  some  arm  : 
pistol,  champagne-corks,  orange-pips  or  rifles ; 
and  no  bird,  from  the  sparrow  to  the  carrion 
buzzard,  is  safe,  except  in  the  abundance  of  bad 
shooting.  All  are  wild  and  flit  on  just  out  of 
range,  and  even  the  stupid  alligator  slips  from 


'v**i«*S**»f#:V'JW;fes^*ai«i***5»'^!Vfe»»flWS!^fe^ 


Vv  "!„,j,:,a->y3F4?^'S.j;i3K- 


-.M 


142 


orrSY  DAY.9. 


his  mud  bank  wlieu  tho  Bteamers  come  laboring 
against  the  Ktrtam. 

Tho  tropical  character  of  this  noble  river  w 
chielly  scon  above  Lake  George.     North  of  this 
lake  the  northwest  gales  — tho  cold  storm  winds 
of  the  country  — pass  only   overland  from    the 
frozen  north,  and  in  mid-winter  sometimes  bnng 
a  very  unpleasant  chill,— one  that  renders  orange- 
culture  precarious,  blighting  in  some  years  the 
new  buds ;  but  south  of  this,  the  winds  havmg 
any  westerly  direction  pass  over  more  or  less  of 
the  Gulf,  and  are  disarmed   by  the  warmth  and 
moisture  of  that  body  of  water  of  their  blightmg 
chill  and  dryness,  until  about  Enterprise  cold  and 
frost  are  practically  unknown :  palms,  palmettos, 
bananas  and  orange-trees  assume  forms  of  vigor 
that  render  them  very  beautiful  to  the  Northern 
eye,  and  the  refugee  from  winter  finds  an  assured 
promise  of  gentle  air  and  golden  sunshine. 

The  river  is  very  crooked,  bending  sharply 
around  points,  cutting  deeply  into  the  banks, 
forming  deep  boiling  pools,  where  fish  are  seen 
breaking  constantly.  The  shores  are  usually 
low  ;  a  point  ten  feet  high  is  known  as  a  bluff, 
and  such  are  sought  by  settlers  for  homes,  pos- 
sessing  all  the  freedom  from  miasma,  insects,  and 


ffTPSY  DAY. 9. 


143 


•ing 

r  is 
this 
iiidB 

the 
ring 
iige- 

the 
ving 

B   of 

and 
ting 

and 
ittos, 
rigor 
hern 
iured 

irply 
inks, 
seen 
ually 
bluff, 
,  pos- 
,  and 


dampness  that  can  he  expected  wlioro  thr  mu  of 
almost  perpetual  Kumnier  broeds  (hiring  many 
months  a  full  crop  of  iinnoyaiiccs.  The  dryest 
and  most  desirable  places  are  found  upon  the 
shell-mounds,  where  one  Htrata  upon  another  of 
shells  forms  elevations  of  very  coii»i(l<'riil)le  extent. 
These  shell-formations  are  of  greiit  inttrest  and 
puzzle  the  keenest  minds  with  their  layers  of 
different  shells,  each  distinctly  defnu'd  in  char- 
acter and  differing  in   a  marked   form  from  the 

next. 

The  water-worn  river-banks  show  long  and 
perfect  sections  of  this  character,  and  the  strata 
are  plainly  seen  in  even  an<l  distinctly  marked 
lines,  not  always  level,  hut  extending  in  long, 
unbroken  elevations  and  depressions,  —  showing 
that  some  disturbing  upheavals  havi;  raiseil  and 
lowered  the  deposited  shells  after  thoy  were  im- 
bedded in  their  present  order. 

Some  of  the  strata,  lying  perhaps  six  inches  in 
thickness,  are  composed  of  bivalve  shells  almost 
exclusively,  much  crushed  and  broken,  but  ce- 
mented quite  firmly.  Other  strata  are  without 
shells  of  this  form,  being  composed  of  conical, 
convolute  shells  of  about  one  inch  on  each  angu- 
lar side  ;   but  these   differ  again  :    in   some  the 


i%^i/jvil*tf.lJ«:.;-r;Jl4^^"-4rittf*-t-»»''««  »-•*••»■ ' 


tii^ijfs- 


,■■**•«  t 


144 


OTPST  DATS. 


shells  are  fresh,  but  little  broken,  and  not  firmly 
cemented,  —  in  others,  crushed  in  fine  fragments, 
and  strongly  united  with  the  Ume  made  by  their 
partial  decomposition,  they  form  the  Coqmna 
Rock.  All  these  varieties  may  be  seen  overlying 
one  another  in  a  vertical  height  of  four  or  five 
feet,  and  the  different  bands  of  color  form  lines 
that  are  visible  as  far  as  the  face  of  the  formation 
is  exposed. 

Upon  these  shell-banks  there  are  found  numer- 
ous conical  mounds,  regular  in  form,  rising  from 
ten  to  thirty  feet,  evidently  of  human  origin, 
supposed  to  have  been,  like  the  pyramids  of 
Egpyt,  burial-places  for  the  distinguished  dead  of 
some  race  that  has  left  no  other  record.  The 
arrow-heads,  axes  and  other  works  of  rude  art 
found  in  these  mounds  are  those  of  the  stone 
age,  which  on  this  cimtinent  is  extended  to  the 
present  time  among  remote  Indian  tribes;  but 
some  of  these  implements  are  found  imbedded  in 
a  conglomerate  so  firm  and  stone-like  that  they 
convey  to  the  mind  of  the  ethnologist  an  impres- 
sion of  as  remote  anti(iuity  as  is  attributed  to  the 
bone-cavo  and  gravel-deposits  of  B'rance. 

A  great  deal  of  learning  has  been  exhausted 
upon  these  remains ;  but  full  examination  has  not 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


145 


t  firmly 
Tments, 
)y  their 
!:!oquina 
erlying 
or  five 
in  lines 
rmation 

numer- 
jg  from 

origin, 
nids  of 
dead  of 
1.  The 
ude  art 
le  stone 
I  to  the 
es;  but 
jdded  in 
lat  they 

impres- 
d  to  the 

diausted 
has  not 


yet  been  made,  and  many  links  in  the  chain  of 
unwritten  history  may  be  supplied  when  a  full 
comparison  of  these  mounds  and  the  works  they 
contain  is  made  with  the  corresponding  discoveries 
of  the  Old  Worid. 

As  the  more  minute  peculiarities  of  our  pre- 
historic ancestors  are  learned,  there  is  no  safe 
limit  to  assume  of  the  unraveliings  of  the  maze 
that  surrounds  the  deeply  interesting  questions  of 
unity  or  diversity  of  races ;  and  it  is  not  unlikely 
that  secrets  are  hidden  in  the  shell-mounds  of 
Florida  that  may,  when  discovered  and  interpreted 
in  the  broad  light  of  future  knowledge,  tell  many 
a  curious  tale  of  wandering  tribes  and  far-fetched 
arts  and  customs. 

Half  lost  in  vain  theories  and  surmises  aroused 
by  these  peculiar  remtiins,  gun  and  rod  were  not 
unfrequently  laid  aside,  and  our  minds  given  up 
to  the  romantic  associations  of  the  first  voyagers 
who  here  sought  the  fountain  of  youth,  carrying 
so  much  of  woe  and  cruelty  with  them  that  it  is 
fortunate  for  the  present  that  they  found  no 
elixir  of  the  kind ;  and  to  the  more  vague  but 
pleasant  fancies  of  the  race  that  still  earlier 
possessed  this  alluring  land  and  roamed  freely, 
with  no  more  idea  of  a  coming  and  overcoming 


If 


•M^y^'^i^-  ■  ■■-  -■*^'*^^^**r£i.!i^S*W.«^i^^i*S-*!^*^-''-*^-'^<>* 


^iv.M  ws%P'='»-^«i-^"  "■'•  -  ■ 


,  *(«8in^* 


14G  QYPSY  DAYS, 

race  than  occurs  to  us  now  in   our  period  of 

supremacy.  \     y  ti. 

But  this  is  driftmg,  and  we  would  not  be  left 
without  anchorage  in  the  reahns  of  speculation. 
We  really  went  rapidly  against  the  stream,  and 
after  a  long  day  of  full  enjoyment  tied  our  craft 
to  a  bank,  and  in  our  smaU  but  snug  cabin  made 
pleasant  plans  for  the  morrow. 


'!i 


>^..«^B>»as:;<5iVaa; 


o£ 

eft 

,nd 
aft 
ide 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

GYPSY   DAYS   IN   FLORIDA. 

Our  third  day  on  the  little  steamer  found  us 
among  the  prairies  that  lie  on  either  side  of  the 
river  helow  Lake  Munroe.  They  were  low  plains 
with  groups  of  trees  like  islands,  and  long  rows 
of  stately  palmettos  defining  the  curves  and  re- 
tracings  of  the  idle  river,  reminding  us  of  eastern 
scenes  of  desert  and  palms.  Herds  of  half-wild 
cattle  were  seen  upon  them,  and  sometimes  a  wild 
turkey  would  seek  cover,  not  by  flight,  but  by 
running  like  the  wind.  A  little  back  from  the 
river,  on  wet  places  out  of  rifle  range,  were 
groups  of  white  herons,  the  most  stately  and 
beautiful  of  birds,  and  great  flocks  of  large  cur- 
lew, wbil^  now  ftnd  then  gannets  would  spread 


K*i*»* 't^*w«*<*»  -  •  "^^  ■■' -"^iaf -'•-: 


,iftfS*^,i,Vi'  •■•X-  sJl4kj-W=  ^-J*-^  i-^.itiSU'.^ ' '  s^*  -  ^*«fW,«>i-'i 


vi^«i^^*^'Ji<:**^^iit5>»flW^uftK^^^        .^  W^ifii'i^ 


148 


GTrSY  DAYS. 


'•\' 


their  huge  black  and  white  wings,  and  seek  quiet 
further  from  the  river.  No  bird  is  so  showy 
and  conspit'ious  as  the  gannet,  and  it  was  long 
our  ambitioa  to  get  one  as  a  specimen  ;  but  they 
were  very  wary,  and  only  settled  down  in  wet 
places  remote  from  any  cover  of  trees  or  brush. 
Fortune,  however,  at  last  did  better  for  us  than 
patience  and  perseverance  (pardon  any  imputa- 
tion in  favor  of  the  fickle  goddess);  for  while  row- 
ing in  a  skiff,  a  flock  alarmed  by  a  steamer  came 
laboring  over  the  river,  urging  their  way  with 
powerful  pinions  against  a  gale  of  wind.  They 
saw  us,  and  tried  to  steer  clear  by  turning  their 
course  several  points  into  the  wind ;  but  they 
made  too  much  leeway  to  save  their  distance,  and 
one  fellow  came  down  before  my  gun  and  sent 
up  a  cloud  of  spray  from  the  river  in  his  fall. 

"  Get  'um  quick !  "  exclaimed  old  July,  my 
faithful  boatman,  "  or  an  alligator  may  carry  him 
down  ; "  and  "get  'um  quick  "  we  did,  bringing  in 
as  magnificent  a  mass  of  green,  black  and  white 
plumage  as  nature  ever  adorned  a  bird  with, 
arousing  some  speculations  as  to  what  a  great 
economy  would  result,  and  what  a  vast  amount 
of  envious  and  toilsome  strife  and  ambition  would 
be  saved,  had  poor  bare  humanity  been  as  com- 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


149 


et 

Iff 

^y 

et 
h. 
iin 
ba- 
w- 
ne 
th 

ey 

ey 

nd 
snt 

ny 

im 
in 
ite 
th, 
?at 
mt 
lid 
na- 


fortably  and  superbly  clothed,  withoiit  the  toil  of 
the  needle  or  the  costly  fabrics  of  fashion. 
These  reflections  did  not  interest  July,  who  at 
once  explained  his  "get  'um  quick"  counsel  as 
inspired  by  an  experience  that  had  impressed  him 
very  deeply.  A  gentleman  hunting  from  Enter- 
prise shot  a  duck  which  fell  in  the  water.  As  he 
was  about  taking  it  in,  a  large  'gator  appropriated 
the  bird.  The  gentlemen  in  turn  gave  the  beast 
a  peppering  of  shot  for  his  sauce,  enraging  him 
without  any  serious  injury,  when  he  turned  on  the 
boat  and  took  out  a  piece  of  the  side,  gunwale  and 
all,  so  damaging  it  that  they  only  made  their  way 
home  in  it  by  careening  the  broken  side  high  out  of 
water.  These  ill-mannered  fellows  often  deprive 
the  hunter  of  game  that  falls  in  the  water,  and 
the  foregoing  incident  teaches  the  imprudence  of 
irritating  them  with  shot. 

The  fishing  about  the  outlet  of  Lake  Munroe 
is  very  good,  but  gar-  and  cat-fish  play  the 
mischief  with  trolling  gear  and  carry  away 
spoons  most  annoyingly.  Bass  are  the  best  fish 
obtained,  here  known  as  trout  by  those  who  cannot 
even  imagine  the  brilliant  rapid  mountain  streams 
wherein  the  Northern  beauties  seize  our  dainty 
flies. 


.*(Siw««i«ist*>.^*B4-<<i»SW-^rf<M»p.'^^^ 


,■«**«< 


150 


OYPSY  DATS. 


HI 


In  one  of  the  eddying  pools  we  took  bass  so 
rapidly  that  in  less  than  half  an  hour  the  bottom 
of  the  skiff  was  alive  with  them.  To  avoid  waste 
they  were  given  to  the  steward  of  a  steamboat, 
and  abundantly  supplied  the  table  for  a  hungry 
crowd  of  tourists. 

In  the  spring-time  the  herons  assume,  to  adorn 
their  season  of  love-making,  a  plumage  of  remark- 
able beauty.  It  commences  at  the  base  of  the 
neck,  and  extending  backward  between  and  over 
the  wings,  the  long  airy  plumes  of  dainty  feather 
sprays  hang  down  gracefully  behind  the  bird, 
and  give  a  very  styhsh  addition,  a  la  "  pannier, 
to  a  bird  that  never  saw  a  fashion-plate  and  has 
no  trouble  with  a  laundress. 

To  obtain  these  exquisite  decorations  for  the 
race  so  sadly  neglected  by  nature  with  regard  to 
the  adornments  lavished  on  the  so-called  inferior 
creations,  these  "angel  birds"  are  assiduously 
hunted,  and  are  consequently  so  wild  that  only 
by  stratej^y  can  they  be  shot  on  any  of  the  bor- 
ders of  the  river. 

From  our  deck  I  noticed  that  numbers  of  blue, 
white  and  lesser  herons  aUghted  very  constantly 
upon  two  isolated  trees  standing  at  the  end  of  a 
shallow  water-way  that  extended  from  the  met 


■^i.  .,w 


^^^fi'WyiMfTgi 


^«»aar>*n'3M«f**i'  M.-.v*^w««**«««^*^«»«?'^**5«»'. 


^^<ijil)|iRt^«Mtt«nA«<« 


^.  v^  .-^,«i)j&«<MM»KrA<i»i«w>i«r»«t«tyM»  -^ 


OTPSY  DAYS. 


151 


so 
Dm 
ste 
tat, 

ry 

arn 
rk- 
the 
iver 
her 
ird, 

has 

the 
ito 
rior 
asly 
)nly 
bor- 

ilue, 
ntly 
>f  a 
iver 


into  the  prairie;   so,  with  the  hope  of  gaining 
some  shots,  we  ordered  a  halt.     The  steamer  was 
tied  to  a  tree,  and  we  launched  a  skiff  and  pad- 
dled through  the  water-lilies  or  "bonnets"  (as 
the  huge  leaves  are  called),  starting  flocks  of 
duck,  rail  and  birds,  and  disturbing  the  siestas 
of   numerous  alligators  and  turtles.     The   only 
shelter  was    under   some    small    water-growing 
bushes,  where  I  hid  myself  as  well  as  I  could, 
draping  my  hat  with  Spanish  moss,  and  disposing 
it  about,  for  concealment ;  the  skiff  was  sent  away 
to  await  recall  later. 

After  a   time  all  the   turmoil   I  had  caused 
ceased.     The  ducks  came  one  by  one  and  dodged 
about  under  the  reeds  and  lily-leaves,  while  inquis- 
itive blackbirds  flitted  near  with  impertinent  airs 
and  chaffed  all  my  ideas  of  concealment  with  un- 
bounded slang.     An  alligator  that  had  been  out 
sunning  himself  where  our  boat  lay,   came  up 
without  a  ripple  and  eyed  me  with  idle  curiosity 
as  an  interloper,  untU  he  drifted  almost  against 
the  shore  ;  but  we  were  after  herons,  and  would 
shoot  them  only  after  the  manner  of  the  Western 
man,   who,   "  when   he   went  a  cattin'   went  a 
cattin',"  and  would  not  accept  a  bass  or  pike  in 
lieu  of  the  wide-mouthed  bull-head.     Animal  life 


..'*i.*»<i«'«»;>'i»**s*>'*'-***^ '*""''•'*' 


i!»«i»?'&*s«afi.s,i*s*a»®»'»awa^i»^*^^^ 


:;.:«&;,'»-"'JW?i3WW'* 


m 


GYrSY  DAYS. 


was  abundant  all  about,  with  little  evidence  of 
fear ;  and  watching  it,  it  was  easy  to  realize  how 
deeply  engrossed  such  naturalists  as  Audubon 
became  in  thus  studying  birds  and  animals  when 
free  in  their  own  haunts. 

Nothing  seemed  aware  of  me  but  the  herons. 
They  came  from  remote  points  and  seemed  about 
to  perch  on  the  old  trees,  where  so  many  had  been 
seen,  but  swept  by  and  went  on  to  other  retreats. 
It  was  hardly  possible  for  them  to  discover  me, 
and  I  could  not  divine  any  cause  for  their  wary 
movements  unless  they  were  warned  by  the  angry 
scoldings  of  the  blackbirds  that  hovered  about 
with  incessant  sharp  cries.  A  shot  or  two  re- 
duced these  alarmists  to  comparative  silence,  when 
a  blue  heron  sailed  up,  poised  for  a  moment  on 
a  bare  limb,  and  then  fell  lifeless  into  the  pool 

below. 

Hoping  for  other  shots,  I  did  not  gather  it  in  ; 
but  it  was  not  long  before  an  alligator  slowly 
swam  towards  the  dead  bird,  and  would  probably 
have  carried  it  away  but  for  the  opportune 
arrival  of  an  explosive  ball  in  his  head.  He 
churned  the  water  for  a  moment  like  a  propeller 
wheel,  and  then  sought  the  bottom  to  d  e  among 
the   weeds,   when   again  all   was  quiet.     But  I 


..-■IS^:J'■^«■j•^a»^^'^«»^^-J>^^^^^*^*'^i^'**^ 


ij,^-^W*J««fi5if=--j'i^'<4l*^ftJS*im^^ 


^r^Ti^..-**s*Wr-».»*^*fc*#*«'^Ac»5B*e^^ 


(lyPSY  DAYS. 


153 


of 

IW 

)n 
in 

IS. 

ut 
un 

ts. 
le, 

ry 

ry 

lUt 

re- 
en 
on 
)ol 


>iy 

ihe 
Ele 
ler 

ng 

b  I 


w.iited  in  vain :  herons  suiled  about  over  the 
marshes,  but  none  came  n<'ar,  until  weary  of 
watching  I  summoned  the  boat  and  poled  back 
to  the  yacht,  glad  to  get  out  of  the  miasmatic 
marsh. 

Our  plan  was  to  go  above  Lake  Munroe,  but 
the  water  was  too  low  on  the  bar,  and  our  boat 
could  not  get  over.  We  visited  Mellonville, 
where  shad  were  being  taken  in  enormous  quan- 
tities ;  and  then  anchored  abreast  the  site  of  the 
old  Enterprise  Hotel,  and  landed,  to  visit  once 
more,  after  several  years'  absence,  the  Blue  Spring, 
than  which  none  can  be  more  beautiful.  It  has 
been  often  described ;  but  it  is  not  easy  to  convey 
an  idea  of  the  deep  opaline  tint  of  the  water,  nor 
of  the  picturesque  eifect  of  the  round  pool,  and 
its  overhanging  shade  of  live  oak,  palmettos  and 
vines.  It  is  about  eighty  feet  in  diameter  and 
very  deep.  There  is  no  motion  in  the  blue  water ; 
but  a  very  large  stream  flows  away  from  it,  show- 
ing the  volume  of  the  spring.  The  water  leaves 
traces  of  white  sulphur  along  the  brook,  which 
falls  some  twenty  or  thirty  feet  to  the  lake, 
affording  a  perfect  place  for  running  water  and 
shower-baths.  We  remained  over  night  at  the 
Mellonville  wharf,  and  visited  some  gardens  con- 


^Mi4giiVJ!igJtijM»^\SAitia^-JH' 


■  ,;i;-,(^^i^i^Wi»iAff:,T>4te&**'S«i*'*^'.b.^'?lM»^  ,..;7ii-'-,i.v*c&J--.. 


;-'«S,i^---.V  5»£>V-S.il^a^*-f--#.  .-.-■■-*-  --^.---.^^i  .a 


y; 


154 


<nrSY  DATS. 


ducted  by  people  of  taste  and  skill,  and  saw  many 
evidences  of  the  capacity  of  this  soil  and  climate 
to  produce  almost  every  luxury.  Potatoes  were 
crown  in  February  for  the  table,  oranges  and 
bananas  flourished  free  from  danger  of  frost,  and 
beautiful  flowers  rewarded  very  little  care  with 
profuse  bloom.  The  geranium  was  a  small  tree 
in  the  open  air,  and  the  oleanders  made  shade  for 

a  party.  , 

Strawberries  were  ripe  while  oun  were  under 
deep  snow,  and  it  was  not  easy  to  put  faith  in  the 
idea  that  the  cold  March  winds  were  heapmg 
drifts  that  would  for  many  a  day  resist  the  sun 
that  fell  with  such  force  upon  us. 

Wide  shallow  reaches  of  water  extended  mto 
currentless  bays,  very  shallow  and  warmed  by  the 
sun,  all  swarming  with  aquatic  life  that  was  dis- 
tinctly seen  over  the  bright  sandy  bottom.  Stand- 
in<r  on  the  bow  of  a  skiif  with  old  July,  a  go<^ 
boatman,  pushing  it  quietly  along,  it  was  like  glid- 
ing through  a  well-filled  aquarium.   Garfish,  with 
their  long  vicious  noses,  hardly  cared  to  move, 
mullet  in  schools  drifted  about  with  little  sign  of 
alarm,  moccasins  and  water-snakes   swam  under 
the  boat  glaring  fiercely  at  it  and  darting  out 
their  crimson  tongues  in  a  threatening  manner  as 


...^^...»^^..>.=»«.s»«««^'«<*».'^**^^ 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


16ft 


tte 
ire 
nd 
nd 
ith 
ree 
for 

let 
the 
ing 
mn 

nto 
the 
dia- 
nd- 
ood 
:Ud- 
nth 
3ve, 
a  of 
ider 
out 
r  as 


if  they  were  quite  ready  to  pick  a  quarrel  with 
anything  invading  their  haunts,  —  while  stinpinj; 
rays  and  electric  eels  were  so  ahundunt  that  it 
was  evident  that  anyone  so  unfortunate  ns  to  fall 
in  the  water  would  meet  a  very  unpleasant  and 
dangerous  reception.  At  one  time,  however,  the 
prospect  of  plunging  in  among  all  those  venomous 
things  was  very  imminent.  Wo  were  poling  about, 
—  Madame,  La  Petite  Enfant,  and  the  writer,  — 
with  old  July  as  usual  giving  us  the  benefit  of  his 
keen  observations  in  wild-life,  when  I  shot  an  .alli- 
gator who  was  enjoying  a  day  out  for  sun-bathing 
and  intellectual  repose.  The  ball  scarred  his  head 
quite  deeply,  and  he  lay  quietly  down  without  the 
ordinary  display  of  power  and  vitality  that  they 
usually  give  when  even  fatally  shot.  We  wanted 
to  make  a  study  of  him :  so  he  was  gathered  in 
and  his  head  pushed  under  the  bow-seat,  where  he 
was  soon  forgotten  amid  new  scenes  of  interest. 
We  went  on  and  on,  the  water  under  us  swarming 
with  biting,  stinging,  shocking  things,  armed 
with  spines,  electricity  and  poisonous  fangs ;  in- 
deed, we  were  saying  how  bad  it  would  be  to  get 
into  trouble  in  such  a  spot,  when  the  end  seat  of 
the  boat  flew  into  the  air,  and  the  alligator,  which 
had  been  only  stunned,  was  making  himself  vigor- 


"3 


t-sA->-'>»4*J'*;f*K^e**y. 


•4lA'a-'fe*Ai.<^  -^-i  ' 


166 


arPST  DAYS. 


ously  manifest.     He  was  smaHliinff  things  freely 
in  his  efforts  to  tuin  around,  and  fuially  succeeded, 
when  ho  came  f(U-  us  with  opon  mouth,  his  head 
and   jaws  streaming  with   hh)od   and    inilimitod 
vengeance  in    his  eye.     It  was  an  embarrassing 
moment.     Jumping  overboard  was  a  last  resort, 
shooting  him  involved  shooting  through  him  and 
the  bottom  of  the  boat ;  there  was  really  no  time  to 
arrange  a  scheme  for  the  emergency,     lie  cume 
slowly  along,    opening  a   nH)st   nmpU*   and    un- 
pleasant exhibit  of  red  mouth  and   strong   teeth 
bent  on  immediate  business,  when  .July,  who  was 
crowded  against  us  in  the  end  of  the  skiiT,  got  an 
oar  into  his  jaws,  aiul  in  a  moment  we  had  him  ni 
the  water,  when  a  second  shot  made  him  manage- 

able. 

We  shot  many  after  this,  but  never  took  any 
more  into  our  skiffs  when  out  as  a  family  party, 
as  they  are  very  uncertain  in  dying,  ami  when 
wounded  are  enormously  strong  and  violent. 


-■■^r^.i^v--— --ys^^v 


'.=o*U!:^ifeJ:^--«iiS^.^i©^'*^'>w^*^  •-" 


E^i'i^-7i*»i'MnTi'^i*' 


v.T.«j.,i5(tt-4f:K^s*^rf^A«aftj*»rt*iti«^^ 


\y 

a, 

ad 

0(1 

"g 
rt, 

lul 

to 

me 

in- 

3th 

sras 

an 

in 

ge- 

vny 

I'ty, 
len 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 


GYl'SYINO    IN    FLOHIDA. 


TuRNiNO  northward,  wo  gave  ourselves  to  the 
current  and  went  rapidly  on.     At  times  we  would 
tie  the  yacht  to  a  tree,  and  leaving  her  and  her 
crew,  row  (quietly  up  some  of  the  small  and  un- 
frequented streams  that  join  the  river.     Here  all 
was  as  wild  as  when  the  Indians  pursued  game 
with  their  stone  avrow-heads  and  took  fish  with 
bone  spears ;  nature  seemed  to  revel  in  her  own 
power  and  beauty,  and  cast  her  glories  of  golden 
sunlight  and  varied  foliage  on  every  hand.     The 
huge  serried  leaves  of  the  palmettos  swayed  and 
glistened   like   shields    hiding  a  woodland   host. 
Cypress-trees  held  their  light  foliage  high  against 
the  sky,  and  graceful  vines  hung  in  long  curves 


^:w4>*in^''«fc'^-«!.VJ« 


...  *'^ 


158 


GYFST  DATS. 


ii 


from  them  to  the  dense  undergrowth  of  novel 
form.  Creeping-plants  held  their  bloom  over  the 
water  on  dead  trunks,  while  air  plants  and  ferns 
found  resting-places  on  the  old  oaks,  amid  whose 
upper  branches  balls  of  mistletoe  shone  with  their 
polished  leaves.  All  this  would  be  doubled  in 
reflection,  while  the  dividing  line  between  the 
exquisite  reality  and  the  no  less  beautiful  image 
below  was  so  hidden  by  traiUng  vines  and  aquatic 
plants  that  the  vistas  of  the  narrow  streams  be- 
came dreamy  and  indistinct  as  they  extended  far 
away  into  an  uncertainty  of  waving  moss  and 
deceptive  shadows. 

Stealing  once  quietly  far  into  one  of  these  deep, 
overhung  bayous,  with  all  the  mysterious  sur- 
roundings of  festooned  moss,  tangled  vines  and 
luxurious  growth,  I  passed  into  shade  that  was 
ahnost  darkness.  The  boat  drifted  slowly  and 
silently  under  the  interlaced  branches,  hardly  dis- 
turbing the  mirror-like  surface  by  a  ripple.  Now 
and  then  a  moccasin  snake  would  drop  from  the 
trees  into  the  dark  water ;  one  clumsy  wretch  fell 
on  the  edge  of  the  skiff,  arousing  our  specula- 
tion as  to  whether  he  would  stay  in  or  wriggle 
out,  until  it  was  with  unmingled  satisfaction  that 
we  saw  him  slip  into  the  bayou.     Others  of  his 


■^n^_.^"^''.^>JN^iK^^"-*"'5-S^^''  y-i;0i$^i^<i^'i^i^«:sa^lii)4J^^r^^''-^^-^?^^^^^-  ^'' 


r#;i^*.ixa^^*^^#»4^J^^#;^*3?*«^S*i^^<^ 


OYPSY  PATS. 


159 


novel 
vev  the 
I  ferns 

whose 
h  their 
3led  in 
en  the 
[  image 
aquatic 
ims  be- 
ded  far 
ss  and 

}e  deep, 
us  sur- 
ges and 
kat  was 
rly  and 
dly  dis- 
,  Now 
:om  the 
tch  f  eU 
jpecula- 
wriggle 
on  that 
I  of  his 


fellows  would  rest  in  a  coil  on  the  huge  water-lily 
leaves  and   assume  threatening  attitudes  as  we 
glided  past  them.     At  length  the  secluded  end  of 
the  water-way  was  reached  witb  noiseless  paddle, 
and  there  on  the  trunk  of  a  half-fallen  tree  were 
the  genii  of  this  sombre  retreat.     Solemn,  wise 
and  immeasurably  imposing  spirits  they  were, — the 
familiars  of  haj,s  and  witches,  the  onen  birds  of 
thousands  of  years  of  superstition, —  ar  assemblage 
of  owls.     They  were  numerous  enough  for  a  full 
jury,  and  it  is  beyond  question  that  I  was  duly 
passed  upon  without  a  hearing.     The  verdict  was 
not   handed    down ;   but   it   is   probably  known 
throughout  the  miasmatic  precincts  of  this  name- 
less estuary,  that  the   only  man    who   had  ever 
imprudently  invaded  its  dark  recesses  was  con- 
demned and  ordered  away  forever,  by  the  wisest 
bench  of  worthies  that  ever  maintained  the  digni- 
ties of  local  law.     We  may  commit  worse  crimes 
than  stealing  into  one  of  nature's  charmed  circles, 
but  we  shall  never  face  again  so  solemn  and  im- 
pressive a  judicial  bench. 

Coming  from  the  shadows  of  cypress  and  palm 
to  the  brilliant  sunlight,  we  would  go  on,  miles  in 
advance  of  the  yacht,  drifting  noiselessly  with 
the  stream,  often  stealing  upou  game,  and  fre- 


1: 


S!l*-iO-^^'^«**^^^*fe«:SM?*-i^^tl^«*!^te 


160 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


quently  getting  a  few  fish.  When  tired,  we  could 
wait  until  overtaken,  tie  our  skiff  behind  the 
steamer,  and  enter  the  snug  cabin  to  find  shelter, 
rest  and  all  the  comforts  needful.  No  life  could 
be  more  enjoyable.  We  were  not  confined  to  a 
limited  district  as  when  in  camp,  and  yet  there 
was  the  same  freedom  and  the  same  opportunities 
for  seeing  and  sharing  wildwood  pursuits.  There 
was  variety  in  every  day,  fresh  scenes  each. hour, 
and  new  temptations  and  anticipations  leading  on 
and  on,  from  one  point  to  another,—  all  with  little 

or  no  fatigue. 

This  simple  method   of   steam-yachting  must 
become  one  of  the  most  popular  of  all  indul- 
gences.    With  our  great  lakes,  connected  by  safe 
and  navigable  routes,  and  rivers  of  endless  extent 
and  unhmited  variety,  through  which  one  may 
wander  from  the  tropics  to  the  far  north,  and  find 
all  climates  and  the  fruits  and  game  of  each, 
there  are  unparalleled  opportunities  for  this  luxu- 
rious life.     Whatever  taste  or  fancy  may  impel 
one  to  wandering,  in  a  yacht  all  the  comforts  and 
conveniences  can  be  carried.     The  botanist  caa,  at 
leisure  and  undisturbed,  unfold  his  cases  of  plants ; 
the  artist  can  sketch,  and  not  have  to  gather  up 
the  disorder  of  easel  and  studio ;  the  geologist 


-iOH,  .,^«9*ss«*.«S»*S»**i**'^5»**»«5S^^^ 


a.i4j«i»4sft**af«>sca«»^*«**-»*-'**'^*s^"'^*'^^ 


OYPST  DAYS. 


161 


Id 
le 

Id 

a 

re 

es 

T8 

on 
tie 

ist 
ul- 
ife 
mt 
lay 
nd 
ch, 
xu- 
pel 
md 
,  at 
its; 
up 
Efist 


may  ballast  his  craft  with  stone,  and  the  ethnolo- 
gist gather  relics  and  form  a  museum  en  route. 
For  the  naturalist  and  sportsman  it  is  perfection. 
His  rods  need  not  be  unjointed  or  his  guns  un- 
limbered.     He  can  stuff  his  specimens,  load  shells 
and  tie  dainty  flies  by  a  window  before  which  new 
and  varied   scenes  are  passing  ;  or  after  a  hard 
day's  tramping  come  back  to  abundant  comforts. 
Of  course,  there  may  be  a  good  deal  of  ex- 
pense connected  with  yachting ;  but  very  complete 
launches  and  small  yachts  are  now  put  afloat  in 
perfect  trim,  for  hardly  any  greater  cost  for  pur- 
chase or  maintenance  than  is  represented  by  each 
of  hundreds  of  fine  carriages  that  are  to  be  met 
with   on  the   fashionable  avenues  of   our   great 
cities,  and  we  are  confident  from  personal  expe- 
rience, that  —  abandoning  all  ambition  for   the 
luxuries  of  cuisine  and  seeking  only  plain  and 
needful  arrangements  —  a  small  family  or  a  few 
gentlemen   may   make   summer   or   winter   trips 
with   no   more  cost   than  is  incurred   by   many 
pleasure  parties  who  find  far  less  of  comfort  and 
independence  than  they  would  commanding  their 
own  yacht  and  their  own  movements.     A  man  of 
as  much  skill  as  is  required  to  make  a  successful 
sportsman  can  do  a  great  deal    in  attending  to 


:;,<SW»*9«'Sfe'«*iWflfc„v 


1G2 


(lYPSY  DAYS. 


his  boat,  so  that  the  cost  and  annoyance  of  hav- 
ing too  many  men  may  be  avoided. 

The  trip  described  in  these  notes  was  made  in  a 
small  yacht  chartered  by  the  day.     She  was  about 
forty-eiglit  feet  long,  and  carried  captain,  pdot, 
enginef  1-  and  fireman,  yet  the  cost  for  a  party  of 
four  was  only  about  the  same  as  the  daily  hotel 
board  and  passage  tickets  over  the  route ;  while 
the  ability  to  visit  many  points  without  remaining 
until  another  boat  shoidd  permit  moving  on,  was 
a  very  great  economy  of  time  and  money.     Of 
course,  much  was  seen  and  enjoyed  that  the  tour- 
ist is  usually  hurried  past,  or  only  sees  in  com- 
pany with  a  crowd  that  does  away  with  all  the 
romance  and  characteristic  quiet  of  the  wilderness. 
The   captain  was  a  useless  party  and  did   no 
service.     The   pilot  was  needful.     The  fireman 
was   a  luxury,  a  mere   attendant  upon   a  lazy 
engineer;  one  man  could  easily  feed  the  fire,  and 
run  the  engine  with  less  trouble  than  he  could 
get  out  of  the  fireman's  way,  so  that  two  men  — 
one  a  competent  and  careful  engineer,  and  the 
other  a  pilot  well  acquainted  with  the  channels  — 
could  run  a  launch  or  small  yacht  with  ease,  and 
keep  her  under  way  as  many  hours  per  diem  as 
would  be  desirable. 


3;*81B6«i!i«)««W*l^»«-...'W=«S'a*ja«6Si 


,i;»E4tSfa.J^tl«6W»^^0*^3'*SAiSfc<fWi.*«^^ 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


163 


V- 

a 
at 
)t, 
of 
;el 
lie 

as 
Of 
ir- 
m- 
he 
ss. 
no 
an 
izy 
nd 
M 

the 

ind 

L  as 


Not  only  are  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Florida 
attractive  eruising-grounds,  but  the  inlets  and 
estuaries  of  the  Southern  coasts  offer  great  induce- 
ments for  the  invalid,  the  naturalist,  the  antiqua« 
rian  and  sportsman. 

In  the  f  i^ring  when  the  sun  begins  to  fall  with 
a  fierce  eat  on  the  rivers,  and  detipite  all  said  to 
the  contrary,  does  render  too  much  exposure  im- 
prudent, the  sea-coast  is  perfect.  The  finer  kinds 
of  fish  are  in  season,  and  many  beach  and  bay 
birds  are  to  be  obtained. 

In  April  the  sea-bathing  is  safe  and  pleasant, 
and  invalids  and  well  people  will  do  a  prudent 
thing  to  halt  alongshore  and  delay  their  return 
until  such  birds  as  the  bobolinks  and  orioles  are 
with  them,  and  not  risk  the  loss  of  all  the  benefit 
of  a  long  and  costly  trip,  by  coming  on  with  the 
robins  and  bluebirds  who  are  beguiled  by  a  few 
warm  days  into  shivering  through  many  a  long 
bleak  storm. 

Returning  from  this  rambling  disquisition  upon 
drifting  in  one's  own  craft,  we  come  back  to  our 
own  for  the  time,  and  tie  her  to  the  wharf  at 
Orange  Bluff,  above  Lake  George.  Night  has 
fallen,  and  we  light  a  pitch-pine  fire  and  cook 
thereon,  while  enjoying  the  picturesque  effect  of 


■eiV^iiiaSi^fJ^&lk, 


164 


GYPSY  DATS. 


'A- 

f - 


the  rich,  mellow  light  that  illumines  our  hoat 
against  the  dark  river,  and  brings  out  here  and 
there  a  tree  in  bright  relief.  Some  deer-hunters 
join  us,  light  their  pipes  and  take  their  nightcap 
from  our  flask.  The  stories  of  a  real  backwoods- 
man are  always  amusing  and  awaken  the  common 
interest  of  all  the  craft ;  so  naturally  it  is  late 
before  we  mature  plans  with  our  new  friends  for 
a  hunt  together,  when  they  call  their  dogs  and  go 
to  their  cabin,  and  we  turn  in  to  dream  of  antlers 
and  trophies. 


isi; 


' '«  «a»Ji4^S**tti»&'!s*>s--S^*iWlf »«&*^l^^ 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 


GYP8YINO    IN    FLORIDA. 


We  awoke  at  our  mooring  at  Orange  BlufE  and 
found  a  fair  bright  morning.  As  soon  as  the 
sun  was  well  up,  our  cronies  of  the  evening  before 
came  with  their  guns  on  their  shoulders,  followed 
by  half-bred  hounds.  The  steam  was  impatiently 
escaping,  so  no  time  was  lost.  Our  skiffs  were 
tied  astern,  and  off  we  went  against  the  dark  tide 
of  the  river  to  a  point  some  miles  above,  where 
we  sidled  up  to-  a  steep  bank  and  tied  the  yacht 

to  a  tree. 

Here  under  a  superb  oak,  with  wild-orange  trees 
all  about,  we  made  a  camp  for  the  ladies,  and 
then  took  skiffs  for  a  stretch  up  a  shallow  inlet. 
We  landed  at  last  in  a  tangle  of  orange-trees, 


'4 


166 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


14' 


I! 


palmettos,  vines  and  cypress,—  all  forming  a  beau- 
tiful mass  of  foliage,  with  a  carpet  of  moss.  The 
bitter  oranges,  more  fair  and  golden  and  much 
larger  than  the  sweet  fruit,  hung  in  bunches  that 
weighed  down  the  branches  and  seemed  almost  to 
cast  a  glow  in  the  deep  shade. 

From  this  cool  retreat  we  worked  our  way  to  a 
more  open  upland,  where  a  few  scattered  pitch- 
pines  cast  a  meagre  shadow.  The  ground  was 
sandy,  sometimes  bearing  a  little  wire-like  grass, 
with  here  and  there  some  pretty  wild-flowers  of 
unfamiliar  form  and  unknown  names,  and  at  other 
points  covered  with  the  saw-palmetto,  a  low  con- 
nection of  the  more  lofty  cabbage-palm,  so  called 
from  a  row  of  saw-like  teeth  on  each  edge  of  its 
flat  stem.  The  leaves  were  about  shoulder  high, 
rendering  it  prudent  to  keep  hands  and  gun  ele- 
vated to  avoid  sharp  rasps  from   the  serrated 

stems. 

Our  course  led  along  the  edge  of  a  cypress- 
swamp,  keeping  a  few  rods  from  it.  As  we  fol- 
lowed along  after  the  hounds,  which  were  now 
slowly  beating  about  under  the  low  growth,  we 
gained  from  our  companions  some  idea  of  "  jump- 
ing deer."  The  deer,  here  very  numerous,  hide 
and  harbor  in  the  swamps  during  the  day.     At 


..*ssHs.^^«*.sa««i^«taisaP»^«B»»S^^ 


arrsY  days. 


1G7 


I' 

B 
1 
t 
0 

a 
1- 

is 

»£ 
sr 
1- 
d 

ts 
h 

d 

S- 
1- 

w 
re 

P- 
le 

Lt 


night  they  come  into  the  "  pine  open  "  to  feed, 
returning  leisurely  us  dawn  approaches,  leaving 
on  the  dew  a  trail  that  remains  until  the  sun  is 
well  up.     The  hounds  strike  this  scent,  and  dash- 
ing into  the  swamp  alarm  the  deer  in  their  midday 
repose.     They  will  not  run  long  in  the  wet  ground 
where  vines  and  canes  hamper  them,  but  break 
out  and  make  for  the  scrub  islands,  which  are  up- 
land thickets  of  thorn  and  rough  low  trees,  amid 
which  they  iind  refuge,  and  rarely  leave  them. 
As  the  only  chance  of  shooting  them  is  between 
the  swamp  and  the  scrub,  it  is  not  desirable  that 
the  dogs  should  be  speedy  or  staunch.     Half-bred 
hounds  or  even  curs  are  the  best,  as  they  soon 
abandon  the  trail  and  return  to  follow  another  one 
into  the  low  ground.     As  we  came  where  game 
was  expected,  we  separated  to  cover  a  long  inter- 
val  between  the  cypress  and   the   thickets,  and 
walked  slowly  on,  waiting  to  hear  from  the  hounds. 
It  was  not  long  before  their  exciting  tones  were 
heard,  when  we  stood   motionless  by  pine-stems 
for  concealment,  and  listened  eagerly  to  gain  an 
idea  when  the  game  would  break  cover.     It  was 
not  our   luck   to  see   this  chase,  as  the   baying 
hounds  swept  around  a  low  hill  to  a  point  where 
Lee  had  gone,  and  our  only  knowledge  of  its  ter- 


161 


UYTSY  DAYS. 


mination  came  from  the  report  of  his  gun  and  a 
distant  whoop  of  exultation  announcing  his  suc- 


cess. 


The  dogs  remained  with  Lee  until  he  came  in, 
bearing  a  fat  young  buck,  which  was  concealed 
from  the  keen  eyes  of  the  buzzards  by  a  covering 
of  palmetto-leaves,  when  we  went  on  as  before. 
The  dogs  followed  a  number  of  trails,  but  no 
deer  came  out  for  a  long  time ;  and  we  were  about 
turning  back  when  a  large  buck  burst  from  the 
swamp  with  a  hound  at  his  heels  and   almost 
jumped  over  Foster,  who  pitched  up  his  gun  and 
fired  within  a  few  feet ;  but  the  buck  saw  the  sud- 
den movement  and  dodged  so  quickly  that  a  shot 
through   his  ear  was  Foster's  only  mark.     Now 
sadly  frightened,   he  sailed  over  the   palmetto- 
leaves  running  between  us,  so  that  for  a  moment 
I  dared  not  fire,  but  could  only  watch  his  graceful 
bounds,  until,  when  out  of  range  of  the  guide,  I 
sighted  him  on  a  bound,  and  he  did  not  gather 
his  feet  under  him  again,  but  fell  in  a  merciful 
death.     He  was  old  and  gray,  large  and  tough, 
a  wary  old  fellow,  with  splendid  horns,  and  he  had 
probably  made  many  an  escape  from  hounds  or 
from  a  more  fatal  enemy,—  the  panther. 

It  was  now  midday  and  the  grass  too  dry  to 


-  tmSi^^l^^&i^^i'&^iS^^ 


■mm^i^&sM^si 


f/YPSY  DAYS. 


169 


ic- 


in. 


od 
iig 
re. 
no 
tut 
he 
ost 
nd 
id- 
iot 
ow 
;to- 
snt 
ful 

^,1 

her 

ful 

lad 
or 

r  to 


retain  a  tniil,  so  we  made  our  way  back  to  our 
boat :  the  guides  staggering  under  the  loads  of 
game,  while  I  found  load  enough  in  :mv  iu^  their 
ponderous  guns  to  my  own. 

We  rowed  back  to  the  yacht  and  found  that 
some  fish  had  been  taken,  while  the  engineer  came 
in  with  a  wild-cat  he  had  shot  as  u  was  skulking 
along  the  river's  edge  seeking  fish. 

We  lunched  under  the  bearded  oak,  and  then 
Madame  started  on  a  shopping  expedition  in  the 
yacht  to  Volusia,  seven  miles  down  the  river,  to 
get  fresh  supplies  for  the  domestic  department  of 
the  boat. 

White  and  lestjar  herons  were  lighting  on  some 
trees  in  some  low  islands  not  far  away,  seeming 
preparing  to  roost  there ;  so  embarking  again  in 
a  boat,  I  had  Foster  leave  me  concealed  among 
the  overhanging  vhies,  where  I  crouched  down 
with  a  vivid  sensation  that  it  was  just  the  haunt 
for  moccasins  and  alligators.  After  the  boat  was 
far  away,  groups  of  heron  swept  around  and  over 
the  island,  scanning  it  with  keen  eyes,  only  to 
wing  their  way  on  as  if  uncertain ;  but  as  uight 
came  on,  the  desire  to  roost  there  overcame  their 
suspicions,  and  they  came  thick  and  fast,  giving 
me  numerous  shots  more  or  less  favorable.    Whw 


as^gc^fe-sj^si- 


170 


ayPSY  DATS. 


Foster  came  for  me,  we  gntliered  in  a  number, 
losing  one  that  we  fancied  an  outlying  alligator 

took. 

Tho  i)luh..(jre  of  the  white  heron,  or  "angel 
bird,"  fills  oiii^^  with  endless  admiration,  so  p-  /a 
and  light  are  its  -pn^VH.  These  birds  were  taken 
in  with  all  possible  care  in  valued  specimena,  and 
were  free  from  stains.  Laying  them  in  careful 
order,  we  started  to  pull  back  to  meet  our  steamer. 
The  darkness  came,  and  we  were  well  on  our  way 
before  her  light  was  seen.  She  came  after  us, 
but  we  told  old  Paul  to  l^ave  us  to  row  to  Orange 
Bluff,  so  she  turned  about  and  went  «ln«hing  by 
us,  leaving  us  rocking  in  her  wake. 

She  was  tied  fast  when  we  came  to  her ;  and 
calling  for  a  light,  we  came  quietly  alongside, 
holding  our  white  buds  up  to  show  like  phantoms 
against  the  darkness.  They  were  hung  in  the 
cabin,  much  to  the  delight  of  our  little  passenger, 
whose  fancy  was  charmed  with  the  beautiful  birds. 
Orange  Bluff  we  found  very  pleasant ;  and  the 
kind-hearted  resident  of  the  place  offering  to  take 
us  in  with  his  family,  we  concluded  to  send  the 
yacht  home  and  enjoy  his  hospitality. 

The  fishing  was  excellent,  and  from  here  we 
made  excursions  of  very  great  interest.     Two  In- 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
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■v' 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRf  ET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  872-4503 


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arrsY  days. 


171 


dian  mounds  are  here,  of  marked  character,  which 
have  been  examined  by  various  ethnologists. 

And  thus  passed  our  days  on  the  great  St. 
Johns, —  idle  days,  but  full  of  varied  interests, 
that  did  not  fail  to  charm  us  until  the  time  came 
to  return  to  busy  scenes  and  engrossing  occupa- 
tions in  the  North, —  feeling  that  one  can  hardly 
go  amiss  if  prepared  to  seek  natural  interests,  and 
leave  Saratoga  trunks,  watering-place  amusements 
and  dissipations  behind.  Those  who  want  the  re- 
sources of  fashion  will  do  well  to  linger  in  Jack- 
sonville or  gay  St.  Augustine,  and  leave  yachting 
and  Bohemianism  to  the  easily  pleased  lovers  of 
wild-life. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

THE   BIRCH   BARK. 


Far  back  in  the  Canada  Bush  the  Magnetawan 
is  a  silver  cord  in  the  forest  on  which  are  strung, 
Uke  pearls,  a  few  beautiful   lakes  where  in  the 
autumn  the  brilliant-hued   maples  and   sumachs 
flaunt  their  gaudy  colors  before  a  background  of 
black  spruces,  green  hemlocks  and  sombre  pines. 
For  many  a  sinuous  mile  the  river  winds  without 
a  rapid,  reflecting  unbroken  woodland  of  endless 
beauty  ;  all  the  eye  sees  is  nature,  so  wild,  undis- 
turbed and  impressive  that  it  would  seem  rude 
desecration  to  launch  on  the  surface  of  the  mirror- 
like  water  any  but  a  birch-bark  canoe.     A  boat 
would  do  violence  to  the  charming  repose ;  but  a 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


173 


in 

g» 
be 

hs 

of 

es. 

)Ut 

ess 
lis- 
ide 
Cr- 
oat 
it  a 


birch-bark  rests  on  the  water  like  an  autumn-leaf, 
the  ripples  caress  its  graceful  curves  with  a  low 
murmur ;  breaths  of  air  waft  the  fragile  form  to 
and  fro,  while  it  mingles  the  tints  of  its  dull  silver 
sides  with  the  water-grasses  and  overhanging 
foliage  without  seeming  to  break  the  soft-color 
harmonies  in  their  perfection. 

The  Adirondack  boat  has  style  in  every  line, 
but  the  oarsman  is  laboring  before  one  all  the 
time.  The  crisp  waves  that  are  cast  aside  by 
the  sharp  bow  are  a  little  too  energetic,  there  is 
a  faintly  suspicious  business  purpose  in  their  rus- 
tle, and  too  much  reality  mingles  in  the  dream, 
as  in  it  the  rambler  follows  the  lines  of  the 
lake  beaches  or  the  windings  of  the  streams. 

There  is  dash  and  spirit  in  the  cat-boat  as  she 
casts  spray  half-mast  high  and  shoots  with  shiver- 
ing saU  into  the  teeth  of  a  squall ;  there  is  a  rush 
that  thrills  one  when  a  yacht  lies  low  with  sing- 
ing cordage  ;  there  is  a  fascination  in  standing  on 
the  bridge  of  a  leviathan  steamer  as  she  rises  to 
the  rhythm  of  huge  ocean  billows ;  there  are  in- 
tense sensations  in  the  sweep  of  the  Mackinaw 
boat:  but  all  must  give  way  to  the  birch-bark, 
the  wild  woodland's  aquatic  creation,  one  that  we 
feel  could  fly  like  a  bird  or  bound  like  a  fawn, 


174 


UYPSr  DAYS. 


were  not  its  own  motion  so  much  more  graceful 

and  stealthy. 

In  retrospect  I  summon  memories  of  many  a 
gypsy  outing.     The  bayous,  where  the  palmetto- 
leaves   rustle    under    b<'arded   cypresses,  fill   my 
mind  with  memories  of  great  beauty ;  the  gray 
cliffs  of  the  Sierra  are  not  forgotten,  nor  are  the 
towering  forms  of  the  great  trees  that  adorn  their 
rocky  sides,  nor  the  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
where   the  snow   drifted    over  me  as  a  blanket, 
welcome    for   the   warmth   it   assured,— all   are 
dreams  of  grand  scenes  that  revive  associations  of 
deep  impress,  while  with  them  come  recollections 
of  Nova  Scotia  lakes,  Adirondack  streams  and 
sea-beach  encampments ;  but  still   more  full  of 
the  romance   that   seems  apart  from  reality  are 
the  thoughts  of  canoeing  back  in  "  the  bush     on 
the  Magnetawan. 

I  am  .Again  in  fancy  seated  in  the  bow  on  the 
folded  camp  blankets,  with  a  back-rest  formed 
of  the  tent  canvass,— a  nest  of  complete  luxury. 
A  rifle  lies  before  me  across  the  withes  that 
form  the  gunwales,  ready  for  snap-shots,  and 
the  canoe  moves  from  the  camping-place.  My 
Canadian  voyageur  is  a  powerful  man,  a  skilful 
paddler.     His  paddle  rarely  rises  from  the  water, 


OYPSr  DAYS. 


175 


ul 

a 
;o- 

ay 

he 
Bir 
ins 
et, 
ire 

of 
ms 
ind 

of 
are 

on 

the 
aed 
iry. 
;hat 
and 
My 
Iful 
iter, 


so  no  sound  of  falling  drops  is  audible;  it  has  a 
long,  steady  sweep  that  moves  the  frail  bark 
along  like  an  animate  impulse,  one  that  seems  to 
suggest  neither  labor  nor  fatigue. 

Thus  in  quiet  we  steal  along ;  the  river  unfold- 
ing in  curves  of  graceful  contour  a  succession  of 
views  that  comprise  all  the  wild-wood  features  that 
charm  the  lover  of  solitude.  Signs  of  animal  occu- 
pation abound,  while  the  scars  of  the  axe  are  not 
present  to  suggest  the  desolation  that  follows  the 
woodsman.  Boughs  cut  by  the  beaver  only 
float  on  the  stream,  peeled  of  their  bark  for  food 
by  the  sharp  teeth  of  these  industrious  animals. 

Otter-slides  —  steep,  smooth  and  slippery  —  are 
seen  on  the  banks,  where  these  beautiful  animals 
slide  for  fun  and  plunge  at  the  end  into  the 
stream, —  real  tobogganing  parties  by  moonlight, 
with  no  reporters  present.  Bruin,  too,  rambles 
along  the  margins  of  the  river,  now  and  then 
standing  up  to  a  tree  to  bite  out  a  piece  of  bark 
as  high  as  he  can  reach,  leaving  the  white  wood 
exposed,  his  challenging  gauntlet,  which  in  the 
etiquette  of  the  forest  means,  "  This  is  my  terri- 
tory ;  if  you  cannot  take  a  bite  higher  and  bigger 
than  this,  just  keep  away  or  there'll  be  trouble 
bruin." 


176 


GYPSY  DAYS. 


At  intervals  of  a  few  milos,  ospreys  choose  tall 
trees  for  their  watch-towers,  from  which  they 
launch  themselves  like  winged  arrows  into  the 
water,  casting  showers  of  spray  high  n.  the  air, 
rising  with  laborious  pinions,  often  holding  a 
captured  fish  in  their  talons,  which  they  bear 
away  in  triumph  if  no  rival  makes  contest  for  the 
promised  feast.  They  are  birds  of  great  dash 
and  courage,  and  as  they  sail  in  graceful  aerial 
circles  are  objects  of  constant  interest. 

Our   canoe    stealing    shadow-like    along    the 
winding  stream  was  a  most  startling  apparition 
to  the  clumsy  and  not  over-keenwitted  muskrats, 
who  failed  to  recognize  it  as  other  than  a  forest 
feature  until  actually  upon  them,  when  they  quite 
atoned  for  their  lack  of  alertness  by  sudden  energy 
in  plunging  under  water,  where  they  remained 
in  terrified  concealment  until  we  were  far  away.  ^ 
Peeled  twigs  set  along  the  banks  were  trappers' 
marks;  silently  stealing  around  a  point,  we  came 
upon  an  Indian  family  in  their  canoe,  the  squaw 
using   the   paddle  with   skill,  while   the   Indian 
lifted  his  traps,  which  were  chained  to  the  white 
wands.     An  infant  aborigine  shared   the  center 
of  the  canoe  with  a  heap  of  dead  muskrats  the 
color  of  his  own  wild  skin. 


(iVrSY  DAYS. 


177 


tall 
hey 
the 
air, 

?  a 
jear 

the 

lash 

^rial 

the 
ition 
rats, 
)rest 
luite 

ergy 
,lned 

ay. 

pars' 

came 

paw 

idian 

»rhite 

enter 

s  the 


A  few  iuterestinf;-  lakes    are   reached    by  the 
sinuous  Ma^nietawan,  where  bold    islands  aiVoid 
charming    camping-retreats.     On    one   ol'     these 
islands  we  grounded  our  bireh-harks,  and  isl;i])- 
hshed  a  eamp  where  we  idled  days  away,  revelling 
in  the  bracing  autumn  air,  gazing  on  the  crimson 
maples  flaming  in  startling  contrast  to  the  som- 
ber pines  and  spruces,  and  occasionally  hunting. 
Deer  were  very  abundant,  indeed :  quite  as  many 
were  brought  to  camp  in  our  camu's  as  we  could 
use,  hungry  as  we  were  from  the  wild-life  that  so 
rapidly  restores  vital  energy  and  renders  health, 
not  merely  freedom  from  illness,  but  a  positive 
physical  condition  of  keen  animal  enjoyment. 

With  a  canoe  one  can  steal  into  the  recesses 
of  the  wilderness  without  snapping  a  twig  or 
rustling  a  leaf,  so  that  a  keen  eye  can  peer  iiito 
the  homes  and  mysteries  of  bird  and  animal  life 
with  the  consciousness  of  being  part  of  the  wild 
scenes  that  ever  charm  the  lover  of  undisturbed 

nature. 

It  was  in  a  canoe  of  the  frailest  form  that  the 
writer  once  rested  his  paddle  while  a  friend  was 
playing  a  large  and  gamey  trout,  one  so  strong 
that  he  pulled  the  light  craft  along  the  shore  of 
a  wild-wood  pond  until  it  floated  close  to  a  deer 


178 


aYf'sy  DAYS. 


tliiit  with  (liiinty  footsteps  was  st.'ppiiif?  into  the 
crystal  water  for  his  sunset  drink.  The  beauti- 
lu!  animal  was  not  alaiined,  we  had  no  desire 
to  injiin*  it,  and  it  j^azed  on  us  with  wide-eyed 
wondt'r  until  a  dash  of  the  desperate  trout  startled 
it.  A  lonjr  jriaoelul  hound, —  and  it  was  over  the 
low  shruhs,  safe  in  the  dark  forest. 

It  is  now  (litticidt  to  enjoy  actual  canoeinj?  in 
perfection  without  going  far  into  the  wilds  of 
Maine  or  the  Canadas.  Skitfs  have  replaced 
thcni  on  the  f«'w  rivers  that  are  free  enough  from 
dams  and  wire  fences  to  permit  easy  voyaging, 
and  few  guides  are  obtainable  that  can  ])ropel 
them  in  perfect  silence,  no  water  dropi)ing  from 
the  thin  ])addle-blade  and  no  gurgling  eddies 
from  its  powerful  use. 

The  modern  canoe  is  a  beautiful  achievement 
in  many  exquisite  forms,  and  probably  offers  the 
most  agreeable  niethod  of  nomadic  rambling,  as 
thousands  of  brave  and  hundreds  of  fair  canoeists 
can  testify  ;  but  the  birch-tree,  that  has  been  a 
forest  feature  for  hundreds  of  unrecorded  years, 
gave  the  Indian  a  light  shell  for  his  frail  water 
creation  that  art  can  never  equal.  It  is  of  the 
woodland,  bearing  the  mottled  sunlight  on  its 
gleaming  sides,  the  dampness  of  deep  shade  in 


OYPSr  DAYS. 


ITlt 


lie 
ti- 
re 
ed 
ed 
he 

in 
of 
led 
Dm 

pel 
uin 
[ies 

ent 
the 
,  as 

ists 
11  a 
ars, 
iter 
the 
its 
in 


tiny  mosst'8  that  dinj;-  to  the  curvinj;  sheets  of 
hark  :  while  the  free  spirit  of  wild-life  is  in  every 
oraceful  line.     Seen  amid  eivili/ed  surroundiuf;s, 
it  brin<;s  the  remote  woodland  streams  to  mind 
with  vivid  suf^gestion  ;  seen  amid  the  lights  and 
shadows  of  the  Northern  rivers,  it  tells  a  story  of 
Ktealthy  motion  that  ever  eliarms  the  real  woods- 
man, who  never  goes  so  far  towards  the  sourees 
of  unknown  streams  that  he  does  not  feel  that 
his    bireh-bark    could    yet   bear    him    into   still 
greater  seelusiou.     The  daintiest  Rob  Roy  is  an 
invader  in  following  a  forest  river  to  its  source 
of   moss-and-fern    surrounded   springs;    but   the 
bireh-bark  is  not :   as  it  flits  like  a  shadow  from 
the  broad  stream  to  the  amber-colored  rivulet,  it 
is  not  intruding,  —  it  is  simply  going  home. 


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